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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    45

    zone damper will not open

    Hi...we got a 10 yr old trane 2 stage variable speed furnace with two zones. honeywell ZD series dampers....one of the dampers will not close....I can manually close it by pushing on the metal arm...I have read that these dampers are power opened and spring closed....what might be the probelm? Over the past monthes the damper would make noises when it would open and close, yesterday it stopped opening.....can I just replace the motor part or do I need to change the whole damper.....any help would be appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    6,841
    I don't know your system nor even the model of damper to which you're referring. Some dampers are powered in both directions, some powered open/spring closed and others powered closed, spring open. Some can be changed to operate as desired by the installer. I'd recommend you invest in an HVAC company that can solve your problem and warranty the repair. In the long run, unless you're a highly educated HVAC tech, you'll save money.
    If YOU want change, YOU have to first change.

    If you are waiting for the 'other guy' to change first, just remember, you're the 'other guy's' other guy. To continue to expect real change when you keep acting the same way as always, is folly. Won't happen. Real change will only happen when a majority of the people change the way they vote!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    45
    the dampers are honeywell ZD series dampers (bottom mount) Furnace is a trane high eff 2 stage variable speed model #UY-R9V-V....EMM -3U universal electronic minizone panel...power close spring open damper......the furnace makes lots of noise when it trys to force air thru the closed damper.....I'd like to attemp to fix it myself because we are very short on cash and the installing company in the past was not helpful on other issues....could I just un hook the wiring and take out the unit for the time being?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    6,841
    danz, it's your system and your house and your money. I know all too well the limitations of finance in these troubling times. The solution you've offered is viable but I can't advise on the wiring issues as I have no personal knowledge of your skills or expertise and there are some damage issues that can result from improperly performing the work you've suggested. So, while I stand by my initial advice, this is your party and I wish you success. SO.
    If YOU want change, YOU have to first change.

    If you are waiting for the 'other guy' to change first, just remember, you're the 'other guy's' other guy. To continue to expect real change when you keep acting the same way as always, is folly. Won't happen. Real change will only happen when a majority of the people change the way they vote!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    45
    thanks for your help but I'm looking for a temporary means to keeping that zone open until I can get a reputable person to see what the probelm is.......I can't keep going in the basement to open the damper....and I don't like all the additional stress on my system when it blows while the damper is closed....we literally have no $ at this time and I'm looking for a temporary fix...I am confident in my wiring/electrical skills and have good knowledge of how stuff work, its just that I never had a bad zone damper...the other dampers all work fine......at this time I don't really care about the luxury of having two zones working....I understand if your hesitant to give more advice.....thanks

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Suppy NC
    Posts
    4,516
    lock the damper open till you can have it replaced and turn that zone t-stat to off so it wont work the damper
    it is my experience that the damper needs replacing repairing them turns into a hassel
    good luck

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN, USA
    Posts
    34,589
    Most power closed and spring open. Usually just held in by a few screws.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    45
    yes, it looks easy enough to remove....a little more info, our home has zone1/first floor and zone 2/upstairs......the zone2/upstairs thermostat controls two dampers, one of which is the one that won't open....should I also disconnect the other damper before I turn off the thermostat? thanks

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Suppy NC
    Posts
    4,516
    Quote Originally Posted by danz View Post
    yes, it looks easy enough to remove....a little more info, our home has zone1/first floor and zone 2/upstairs......the zone2/upstairs thermostat controls two dampers, one of which is the one that won't open....should I also disconnect the other damper before I turn off the thermostat? thanks


    yes

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    45
    ok...I read the damper manual and it states that I can remove just the motor part...so I did that, making sure that the damper was in the open position...I then capped the ends of the wiring..will that be sufficient for now?..also, does anyone have experience with just replacing the motor (the manual states it can be done)....is the "spring open" part of the motor or the actual damper...thanks again

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    45
    answered my own question....took the motor off and inspected it, and found that the spring inside had broken....is this common???? Is it ok to keep the wiring capped till I am able to afford a new motor?...if its any help, m847d1004is the number on the damper operator

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    25,918
    skidoox8


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  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Charleston, SC
    Posts
    930
    Broken return spring on a 10 year old Honeywell damper is not a cause for alarm, replace the motor when you have the $$.

    As for the failed one you have now, since the motor is removed the damper will spin freely. You will need to secure it in the open position so the furnace can't blow it shut. I suggest a pair of vice grips.

    With the damper locked open, that duct and registers will get heat when the 1st floor thermostat calls. If you turn off the 2nd floor t-stat, that furnace will only run when the first floor calls. If this were my house, I would disconnect and lock the failed damper, and see if leaving the working damper and 2nd floor thermostat doesn't over-heat the house. If it does get too warm upstairs, turn off the upstairs t-stat.

    All of this is suggested as a temporary repair. Get it fixed asap. Good luck.
    "Customer Service" is not a department, it's an attitude!
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