purchase manifold gauge question

[mike357]

I'm only in my first hvac class but would like to start getting my own tools now a little at a time. I saw this on ausction today.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RITCHIE-YELL...item19ce414dfc

It will do 410a and 22 thats all I need for now except 134a All yellow jackets I have seen have the manifold sticker showing what rfrigerants it is for I know its on the gauge, I just want to make sure this isn't a knock off item and are all yellow jackets flutterless. Any advice on purchase would be great.

Thanks Mike H

If link is not working it on ebay and ite110834568700

[jpsmith1cm]

That is an excellent manifold. I still use the one I was given for christmas at age 20 when I started this trade.

I believe that all YJ analogs are 'flutterless'

[knave]

but I would get new ones....
Here's a set that includes hoses for 85 bucks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yellow-Jacke...#ht_2767wt_717

[Blackmer]

I have never had problems with manifolds. It's the hoses and gauges that get beat up for me.

[supertek65]

they will be good for you!

[freemind]

I have the same set, but mine are new.

I would not buy a used manifold set, unless I knew the person WELL who was selling it. As already stated, a new set isn't much more, and you KNOW someone didn't abuse them or run something through the manifold that shouldn't be.

[mgenius33]

Those are great analogs. If you notice the inner part of the gauge face shows "Class 1" , this states the reading will be within 1% over the entire gauge range.
http://yellowjacketuniversity.com/ar...es-and-r-410a/

[supertek65]

good info!!!!!!!!!

Those are great analogs. If you notice the inner part of the gauge face shows "Class 1" , this states the reading will be within 1% over the entire gauge range.
http://yellowjacketuniversity.com/ar...es-and-r-410a/

[LibertyTree]

I wouldn't buy those. I would buy the 4 valve version because you will inevitably be doing evacuations and you will kick yourself later.

[mikeybow]

I wouldn't buy those. I would buy the 4 valve version because you will inevitably be doing evacuations and you will kick yourself later.

Indeed. Not to mention time saved between evac. and charge.

[ckartson]

Use a tree and evac hose for evac, not a manfold set. See Yellow Jacket website.

[mikeybow]

Keep it in perspective. As you gain experiance, knowledge, and money you you will discover many new gadgets, tools and time savers to assit you in your trade. Just starting out, I believe a new 4 port manifold beats a new/used 2 or 3 port manifold. Just my opinion.

[jpsmith1cm]

Keep it in perspective. As you gain experiance, knowledge, and money you you will discover many new gadgets, tools and time savers to assit you in your trade. Just starting out, I believe a new 4 port manifold beats a new/used 2 or 3 port manifold. Just my opinion.

I would rather someone have started me along the right path 17 years ago rather than having to re-learn a lot of things that I thought that I knew

In my opinion, it is best to learn things correctly the first time rather than learn it incorrectly then re-learn it correctly.

The method that achieves the fastest, deepest vacuums is using large bore, vacuum rated hoses with as little restriction as possible, meaning no depressors, schraeders, low-loss fittings or any other junk in the way.

You CAN pull a vacuum through a 2 or 4 valve manifold. I've done it all 3 ways.

Straight hoses and no restrictions gives the fastest and deepest evacuations.

Save the extra cash from the junker YJ Brute/Titan manifolds, buy good valve core removal tools, quality hoses and a good micron gauge.