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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Chandler AZ
    Posts
    168

    Walk In Freezer Drain Heating Cable

    need to replace a heating cable in a walk in freezer ,the way it hooked up , it energizers on defrost .What is the proper way to wire the cable ?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Mid-Mo
    Posts
    3,595
    I've seen it both ways. I'm interested in seeing what everyone says is the proper way but I have wired all of ours to be on continuous after having a frozen mess once.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    4,381
    I too have seen it both ways. I generally see it for during defrost only on smaller reach in boxes & such.

    Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    46
    You can do it either way but I would suggest keeping it on all the time.
    We the unwilling, working for the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful. We have done so much with so little for so long, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    25,556

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    3,156
    yea , what he said .....

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Northeast Illinois
    Posts
    83
    I keep it on.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Guayaquil EC
    Posts
    10,325
    Here's an excerpt from Heatcraft's I&O Manual:

    The heater should be connected so that it operates continuously. It is
    recommended that the drain line be insulated to prevent heat loss.
    A heat input of 20 watts per linear foot of drain line for 0˚F (-18˚C)
    room applications and 30 watts per linear foot for -20˚F (-29˚C)
    rooms is satisfactory.
    One common issue I've found with existing systems is there's usually no constant power supply at the evaporator for a drain line heater. Typically you have "N" for a common and "3" for defrost and "4" for the fans which are both switched. If you're lucky Sparky ran a spare conductor, so if pulling another wire is impractical you can add a relay with the coil tied to "4" and then use the NC and NO contacts to flip flop power to the drain heater.

    I think one reason the constant power supply is missed during installation is many manufacturer's (like Heatcraft) fail to show the drain line heater wiring as a part of their wiring schematics.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    butler pa
    Posts
    1,073
    or just find power from the lighting curcuit on top of the box and run some seal tite

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    West Haven, CT
    Posts
    41
    The heater should be connected so that it operates continuously.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    1,028
    whats are your thoughts on running this off a gfi outlet thats in the cooler, i see many new installs like this, and just causes me trouble with gfi being triped and unless the lights run though it, now one knows, untill the drain has bust and water is leaking

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    West Haven, CT
    Posts
    41
    it's risky, and could couse a lot of trouble like what you just said.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Loris SC
    Posts
    208
    If no constant power I'd wire to N and 4 off the defrost clock so its on during ref. cycle which is most of the time.

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