Residential GE refrigerator no freezing
GE M# PSS26LSRC SS S# TG418176 4.5 oz. R 134-A It is about 8 years old.
I do not ever work on this type of equipment, but this is my bosses.
Complaint was product in freezer soft and refrigerator warm.
Fan in refrigerator side works. Fan in freezer side works.
Cleaned condenser the other day. Compressor was running at 0.63 amps(LRA= 8.6). This seems low to me. Was expecting 1-1.5 amps.
It ran for 2 days and frezzer reached 28*F, Refrig reached 47*F.
Checked evap today. First 4 passes had frost build up. Middle of coil clear. Outlet of coil and first 1' of suct line in box had a little frost.
Added bullet valve to low side. Static pressure was 30#. Cleared all frost and started unit. Trying to avoid high side tap. Started up and SP began pulling close to 0# with a freezer temp. of 60*F. Weiged in gas trying to bring up SP. Put in 4 oz.(stupid I know). Now checking SH at comp and is 0*F.
I am thinking with such a warm box the SP should have been at least 20# which is why I added 4 oz. Tried getting SP up.
I am now running it a trying to get box temp down a little.
Anyone have any experience with residential stuff like this and can offer some advice would be great. I would like to avoid having to braze in ports, pressure testing, evac, and weighing in new charge.
Disposable. Usually cost more to fix then replace. Don't ever work on them anymore but with the little info available sounds like restriction except for the SH you mentioned. 0 SH means flooded, overcharge or no fans which contradicts the half frosted evap. Is the comp sweating or frosted?
Could have just been low on charge too. Since you already accessed system pull charge and weigh it, sweat in a permanent access on suc side pressure test for leaks, repair if found, evac and weigh in factory charge. Only way to know charge is good. Can't do much else until that is established.
Unfortunately this is my bosses house so he is not paying for it (directley). 10 hours of my time to him is cheaper than buying another one. If this was mine it would already be on the front lawn.
I am worried I did over charge it. I guess I will bite the bullet and braze in some connections and start fresh.
I do have experience on these boxes.
They only run about 5 lbs with warm box. 0 to slight vac is normal with cold box.
Since this unit has heat exchanger the line will never be cold or its overcharged.
Go ahead and start over and add nameplate's charge which is only about 5oz.
See what you've got from there. If you add high side port compensate for your hose.
Pull, vacuum, and recharge by nameplate.
Use shutoffs on the hose ends, fill liquid hose with liquid, and use the valve to control the weigh-in, that way you never have to compensate for hose losses.
Make sure the defrost switch is firmly attached to the evap coil. Check the defrost timer (if this model does not use a board) and make sure there is no voltage drop across those contacts in defrost or compressor running mode.
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2 Tim 3:16-17
RSES CMS, HVAC Electrical Specialist
AOP Forum Rules:
1) Brazed in low side stub on compressor acces port. Brazed in high side stub on LLdrier access port.(used nitrogen).
2) Purged with nitrogen and evacuated.
3) Pressure tested. .75# drop over 40 min.
4) Triple evacuted purging w nitrogen each time. Installed cores at last purge.
5) Filled low side hose with vapor. High side house with liquid.
6) Weighed in 4.5 oz.
Running for 40 min.
1)Box temp dropped from 64*F to 46*F, Delta-T= 18*F.
2) SP= 1.5'"hg SLT= 71.1*F SH=100*F
3) LLP= 101#
4) Amp draw .62
There is no way a warm box could have 100* of SH right?! 1.5"hg @ 46* box! Got to have a restriction.
What do we think. Fuuny how when you are in the situation you can actualy question such crazy number.
Not sure what your original problem was but I would add a half ounce or so of refrigerant and see what happens. Very easy to mess up on these small weighed in charges. High side seems a little low, suction a little low and superheat a little high.
I have been doing that. Have put in an extra .75 so far.
SP= 2"hg SLT= 65.6 SH=86*
You have a heat exchanger lineset. Do not even look to sh. Your point of reference is frost pattern.
Sounds like cap tube to me although you should have changed the drier by now to rule that out.
To repair a restricted cap tube you drill a hole through back wall to run new heat exchanger
SB: even with a heat exchanger what what compressor can handle 86* of SH. Why would a system be designed like that?
Amp draw a little low. Is this a standard compressor with little relay or inverter box unit?
Every single one. It is made not to sweat or ruin floors.