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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    27

    Very loud noise from outdoor unit

    I've had a Goodman SSX16 2.5 ton Heat Pump for 3 winters now. The first year the installer installed a new reversing valve to fix a recall. This morning, out of the blue, while this unit was running (I don't know whether it was in defrost or normal running) a loud shrieking noise, like a saw slowly cutting through metal maybe, hard to describe, started coming from outside. My first thought was its an outdoor unit, so I turned both off. To my surprise the noise persisted so I thought, ok, something is going on at the neighbor's.

    I went out back but as I got closer to the side of my house the noise grew louder and it was coming from the now stopped 2.5 ton Heat Pump. My only thought was that pressure was escaping from the internals of the unit but the only evidence was the noise which reduced slowly and stopped within I'd say 5 minutes or so after turning off the unit. I don't see any evidence of any residue to indicate that Puron is all over the place.

    I've called the original installers and have an appt for Wednesday at 1pm. Question is, does anyone have any idea what this is? I'd like to be well informed about it before they get here so that I can understand what they will be saying and doing.

    Thanks!
    bpetersen

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ripley, WV
    Posts
    1,131
    Without seeing or hearing it I believe the noise you heard after it shut off might have been the pressures equalizing inside the system as they start off with a hissing sound and gradually get quieter until it sound stops. Can you post a video of the unit as its making the noise? It could be quite a few possibilities.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    6,826
    Since the compressor is a dividing point between high and low pressure in the system, and to a lesser extent the 4-way valve also has potential restrictions, I'd be curious first about the compressor and/or possibly a compromised valve. Or possibly a 4-way valve that's stuck. Either way, it doesn't sound (no pun intended) like an easy or inexpensive fix.
    If YOU want change, YOU have to first change.

    If you are waiting for the 'other guy' to change first, just remember, you're the 'other guy's' other guy. To continue to expect real change when you keep acting the same way as always, is folly. Won't happen. Real change will only happen when a majority of the people change the way they vote!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    27
    That noise was so scary and loud, that I am not going to turn it on again. I wish I had a better description of the noise. It was happening during the run and I've never heard it before in 3 years. It continued and died down after I turned it off at the thermostat control.

    It wasn't simply an air his, rather more like squeal or as I earlier said, a cutting or shrieking, and very loud so that we heard it in the house and it startled us. I would hate to think what would have happened had we not been here.

    The unit is supposed to be under warranty but the problem with that is, this outfit never registered it with Goodman, rather they just tell me "We will take care of it", so I may be in a little trouble there. The bottom line is, it was definitely a sudden failure and we've noticed no change in the efficiency of the system up to that noise. It didn't shut itself off - not sure if it is smart enough to do so.

    Thanks for your quick replies! They are appreciated.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    6,826
    You're welcome. And loud squealing noises are never a good thing with mechanical equipment. You did the right thing by turning it off at the breakers.
    If YOU want change, YOU have to first change.

    If you are waiting for the 'other guy' to change first, just remember, you're the 'other guy's' other guy. To continue to expect real change when you keep acting the same way as always, is folly. Won't happen. Real change will only happen when a majority of the people change the way they vote!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Baton Rouge, LA
    Posts
    1,083
    Pure guess, sounds to me like you were slugging your scroll compressor. Which means you were getting liquid r-410a back to your compressor. As a scroll compressor allows for minor slugging it can get away with some liquid. How ever, liquid cannot be compressed and when to much liquid r-410a gets into your scroll compressor it separates the scrolls and can cause the them to chatter when they come back together.

    This link will give you an example of what I mean. http://jbarrownews.********.com/2007...ust-plain.html

    You may get lucky and find out that all you need to do is fix the issue causing liquid to reach your compressor. Worse case scenario, your compressor is destroyed.

    That's if my guess about the sound is right.

    Good sir. Hope all goes well for you.
    If you're too "open" minded, your brains will fall out.
    Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    27
    Thanks all for your continued attention. I did some more reading and found these symptons sounded close to what I heard and continued to hear once the system was turned off -
    ----
    Compressor (reciprocating) is going off on internal relief: (It will Scream/hiss like a "Banshee in a bear trap" You will hear it over 1/4 of a mile away. Very Very loud!!!!). Caused by excessive pressure due to a bad fan motor or over charge. All units should have a high pressure cutout. Shut it off immediately!!!
    Compressor has bad valves (reciprocating). It will hiss when running and pressure will equalize as soon as power is removed. Your compressor can run indefinitely like this but it is not efficient.
    Compressor Sings like a trumpet soon after being shut off (reciprocating). This is the pressure equalizing through the valves (quite loud). Do not worry as long as it doesn't hiss.

    ----
    I don't think I could have overcharging of 410 as we've not done anything to the system since it was fixed a couple winters ago. Unless that is, this issue builds up over time and finally creates an issue?

    I don't know if the fan was operating or not. Is that the outdoor unit fan which is being referred to? Could the defrost timer have failed and the system was in defrost too long? Would that cause the internal overpressure referred to in the first case above? It certainly did cry like a banshee in a bear trap and you most certainly could have heard this thing 1/4 mile away easily.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    3,315
    Post what the experts find. You should have a scroll compressor (not recip.) in this heat pump. I hope you have the optional labor warranty also!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    27
    You're right of course. I realized that as soon as I posted - I have a scroll in this unit. But the noise sure sounds the same. I hope I find out tomorrow. I am supposed to have 10 year parts and labor, however, I later found out that Goodman knows nothing about it, and when I asked the installer he said it was "our warranty". Bottom line it has to be fixed.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    27
    The guys came early, after witnessing that the system wouldn't turn on, they hooked their gauge up to it, ZERO Pressure, then ran some nitrogen into it, and the leak was at the reversing valve which is the valve they had replaced 2 winters ago as part of a recall. The tech said he'd never seen such a gash in a reversing valve so I guess my question is, how in the world would this happen? I had assumed it was a weak solder joint as they had replaced it.

    Now I am wondering if I am doing something wrong by running my 80% gas furnace during defrosts. When these guys installed the system, they left the defrost signal disconected. But I connected it as indicated by the schematic on the furnace which is designed to have such a connection.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    1,232
    On some dual fuel systems when the heat pump goes into defrost the furnace will come on and finish the heat cycle then on next call for heat the hp will start back up again. Other systems turn the furnace back off resume the heat call with the hp. Regardless of which system you have the hp MUST have a high pressure switch on it to prevent excessive pressures should the furnace, for whateve reason, continue to operate at the same time as the heat pump. You should have this checked out.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Cincinnati, Oh
    Posts
    4,656
    Quote Originally Posted by bpetersen View Post
    When these guys installed the system, they left the defrost signal disconected. But I connected it as indicated by the schematic on the furnace which is designed to have such a connection.
    And BAM!
    Warranty void, at our company.





    We don't use gas during defrost.
    "Better tell the sandman to stay away, because we're gonna be workin on this one all night."

    "Dude, you need more than 2 wires to a condenser to run a 2 stage heatpump."

    "Just get it done son."

    Dad adjusted

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    27
    I think that the only way they run together is during the defrost because the defrost signal coming back from the outdoor unit is tied to the connection on the furnace for such a signal. Other than that, the WR thermostat is controlling and is either running one or the other but never both. I do know that the thermostat will become satisfied during a defrost sometimes, and thus it will kill the Heat Pump which in turn kills the defrost signal from the heat pump which in turn kills the gas furnace.

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