1974 Burnham Aquastat L8148E1000

[kathy-sunshine]

Hello,
we are called out to a dinasour of a boiler and the guy is pretty much determined not to replace it. Burnham says no oem for any parts. Before we go looking at the aquastat i am wondering if anyone has any familiarity with this old beast. We dont see why a L8148E1026 would not work unless the well is different. Honeywell cross reference says no replacement.
thanks,
Kathy

[STEVEusaPA]

Contacting honeywell's tech support?

https://customer.honeywell.com/Busin...Us/Default.htm

It's probably the well, or the different size transformer, but I have to think they have a solution...other then major surgery. You may have to come off the top of the boiler, supply pipe, with a new fitting that has the well tapping in it (cant find the part #). A last resort would be a strap on, right at the supply...but I'm not a big fan of those.

[oil lp man]

L8148 is a high limit control.
You can probably use the new electronic universal aquastat by Honeywell.
L7224U1002.
It can be used as a high limit control by disabling the low limit.
If it doesn't fit the well properly you would have to install a standard well.

[flange]

many of the older high limit/aquastat controls were allowed ot go over 200 degrees. modenr codes in many areas do not allow this, and most ofthe legacy stuff went away because of it. A lower rated model wll work, however, dpeending upon which bulb, you may need to change well. buy one and a well, change well if necessary.

[skippedover]

Hello,
we are called out to a dinasour of a boiler and the guy is pretty much determined not to replace it. Burnham says no oem for any parts. Before we go looking at the aquastat i am wondering if anyone has any familiarity with this old beast. We dont see why a L8148E1026 would not work unless the well is different. Honeywell cross reference says no replacement.
thanks,
Kathy

You're calling that a dinosaur? In 1974 I was installing those things and I'm not quite a dinosaur yet, I don't think! Hmmmm. Well, maybe I am. In any event, Honeywell has had the same aquastat well for the last 60-years at least. The new sensor easily fits right into their old wells. L8148E1000 is an OEM part number so that's why you can't get no satisfaction (I can't get no, sat-is-faction, a song from the dinosaur days) with a cross reference. This is when you young'uns need to know your wiring so you can retro-fit a solid replacement to that boiler. For an old dinosaur, it's a cake walk.

[gravity]

what went bad in the aquastat? can you just install a new transformer, relay, and a new t-stat that mounts to the supply pipe?

[oil lp man]

what went bad in the aquastat? can you just install a new transformer, relay, and a new t-stat that mounts to the supply pipe?

What went wrong with the aquastat?
Thats too funny.
It lasted nearly 40 years!
Honeywell still makes the L8148 but most built nowadays last 5-10 years.
All the more reason to replace it with the electronic one I stated earlier.

[oil lp man]

many of the older high limit/aquastat controls were allowed ot go over 200 degrees. modenr codes in many areas do not allow this, and most ofthe legacy stuff went away because of it. A lower rated model wll work, however, dpeending upon which bulb, you may need to change well. buy one and a well, change well if necessary.

The L8148 goes up to 220 or 240 deg. F I believe but i usually set them between 180 and 200 depending on the boiler and system.
This is for a boiler not a water heater.
All boilers and related equipment are rated for 240 deg. F but I never set them that high especially because of temp rise after boiler shutdown with hot chambers in oil fired units you would get steaming even at 20 psi.

[skippedover]

The L8148 goes up to 220 or 240 deg. F I believe but i usually set them between 180 and 200 depending on the boiler and system.
This is for a boiler not a water heater.
All boilers and related equipment are rated for 240 deg. F but I never set them that high especially because of temp rise after boiler shutdown with hot chambers in oil fired units you would get steaming even at 20 psi.

I always allow for a little sloppiness in the aquastat calibration. If they've got a tankless coil, I'll set the suckers for a 210° high limit, then crank the low limit to the max and wait for the high limit to turn off the burner. I want to get the high limit set so it's at that maximum with a little sizzle when it turns off. That means it will 'coast' up to 220° generally from the radiant after fire effect. Then reset the low limit to 20° below wherever the high limit ended up being set. Gives copious amount of DHW from the old tankless with safety of operation being paramount.