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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    11

    trane chiller question

    hi i am working on a trane chiller the alarm is chiller water flow (ent wtr temp) we have changed sensor in evap barrel (inlet & outlet) & added water to system chill water side. it still going out same alarm .any more ideas?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Southern US
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    504
    Yep!!!!
    I'm good at making things cold...You can ask my first two wives!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Fort Lauderdale Fl
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    282
    Whats the entering and leaving water temp?

    Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    11
    ent 62, lvg 64 why is ent lower then lvg then look out on alarm we hve read the trane manual page 5-29

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Fort Lauderdale Fl
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    282
    This might seem like a crazy question are you sure those sensors are not reversed?

    Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tassajara View Post
    This might seem like a crazy question are you sure those sensors are not reversed?

    Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


    ent and leave water sensors reversed?
    they are the same sensors, dont think this would be a problem


    Quote Originally Posted by zw17 View Post
    I just was thinking about it and if you switched around the EEWT and ELWT sensors in the right way and under the right conditions (which I believe you are) you run a very real risk of freezing the barrel.

    Stop what you are doing, put things back the way they were, and call for some help.
    i was taught if someone ever replaces a sensor that it is best to run the wire all the way back to the board,
    i am under the understanding if one cuts a sensor that it changes the resistance,
    now, i ran across something the other day.,.,

    was working on a RTAA1404 , going off on water temp, i changed the temp sensors in the ent and leave wells in the water lines at the machine., theses sensors tied in to the 695, come to find out i replaced the wrong one., i was supposed to change the water temp sensors on the barrol,.
    question, why sensors on the cooler barrol,.(because factory mount safetys i would think) and external water temp sensors, in the water lines, more safetys?
    Last edited by milkyway; 04-19-2012 at 08:04 AM.
    no signature blast'em man blast'em
    !!!KILL THE TERRORIST!!!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    3,124
    If it's an RTAC, the entering water temp sensor can be bound as the leaving water temp sensor and vice versa. If it's an RTAA, it's easy to switch them up at the plug on the chiller module.

    I had an after hours call recently where the customer had pulled all of the wires out of the MTA plugs to clean the connections. When he put them all back, he got the saturated evap temp. sensor and suction temp. sensor for one of the circuits mixed up. The circuit would pump itself down into a vacuum. Being an RTAA170, it did not have a low pressure switch. I think it would eventually fail on high pressure or low superheat, can't remember which... Probably lucky the compressor didn't lock up.
    "There is no greater inequality than the equal treatment of unequals."

    -Thomas Jefferson

  8. #8
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    Not in Iran
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    If it's an RTAC, the entering water temp sensor can be bound as the leaving water temp sensor and vice versa. If it's an RTAA, it's easy to switch them up at the plug on the chiller module


    Ah ,.!
    no signature blast'em man blast'em
    !!!KILL THE TERRORIST!!!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    montreal/canada
    Posts
    81
    I already had this problem on a rtaa and did everything and the end the problem was display panel out of the Bleu enter and leaving numbers going out of wack

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    11
    well we did that and it started to work but not sure if that was the right thing to do. i'm a new guy working on chillers but not new to hvac work just trying to stay float

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Ohio
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    2,071
    I can tell you are very unsure about what you are doing so please, call someone who is sure about it. Do not change the sensors around.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    Mixing oil and fire with a big spoon.
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    Quote Originally Posted by zw17 View Post
    I can tell you are very unsure about what you are doing so please, call someone who is sure about it. Do not change the sensors around.
    double down on that advice.

    there are several things that could be happening. the sensors could be reversed although it is unlikely. you could have a bunch of crud in the bottom of the evaporator where the entering water temperature is located. you could have pushed the new entering water temperature sensor in too far. you could have very low flow. you could be missing your internal water baffles. you could have a poor system design where an existing chiller that is running and making cold water 'shocks' this chiller at start up.

    get someone in there that can teach you what to look for. pick the 'wrong' solution and you could be buying a new chiller...i don't think that would keep you a float much.
    "If you pull one more stunt like you just pulled with Tommy, you won't have to get on a plane because I will personally kick your ass from here to Korea!" - Best of the Best

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Ohio
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    I just was thinking about it and if you switched around the EEWT and ELWT sensors in the right way and under the right conditions (which I believe you are) you run a very real risk of freezing the barrel.

    Stop what you are doing, put things back the way they were, and call for some help.

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