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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    14
    OK here's some pictures of what I'm brainstorming:

    Here's the said ducts in question, you can see the single supply duct that's supposed to cover ALL of the basement Ceiling is 7 ft already, under ducts is 6'3". (ignore the PA system, I'm a guy in my 20s and throw dance parties )



    Here's the opposing wall where I'd like to put the ducts and build it out to hide them. This wall is 38 ft long



    This is where I want to put the furnace. It's currently behind the left side of the wall, left of the open door. This way I can house the gas, electric and water lines and HVAC all in a single closet (accounting for combustion needs of course)



    Existing furnace and ducts. This shot is the back of the wall you saw in the previous shot. The wall heater I have NOT used as I'm aware its flue slopes down and the insulated wrapping is likely asbestos. If I get the furnace moved, that entire wall would be gone.



    Opposite shot of furnace, you can see how it's currently vented. The discoloration in the chimney, should I worry about that? The flue pipe itself is not rusted.



    Upstairs in the kitchen, which is small and needs updating. This blank area is where the chimney is and is taking up space for a pantry, counter space or a wall oven.



    Living room shot- those are both returns, in the exterior wall.

    Here is where 2 supply ducts used to be. You can see how the hardwood floor doesnt exactly match as I had a wall removed there. The closet you see at the top of the shot (missing baseboard trim) is where I'd like to have the new vent run through.



    For reference, here's where the 2 supply ducts were...

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    14
    Here's a crude MSPaint drawing I did of the locations.

    Basement existing:




    What I want to do:


  3. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    14
    Upstairs existing: See how it's this big mix of supply and returns all over the place.. the area by the front door is especially cold. The front door is leaky (will be replaced).




    What I plan to do it "correctly"




    Hope this gives more insight of what I plan.

    Another question- for the basement system, the furnace appears to be more than capable of doing 2 floors even with the added ducting- but for the additional basement ducts, can they tap off of "branch" lines going to the upstairs or should they have their own lines tapped into the trunk?

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    4,628
    looks ok as long as they size the duct correctly.you will need a new load calculation to determine proper duct sizing and i would put in a new 95% properly sized furnace and vent the flue straight out the back wall if possibe

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    14
    Sounds good. Time to start making some appointments Hope I won't be in too much sticker shock. I'd really like a 95% furnace that can vent out the wall, but from a cost stand point it seems like a waste to toss the 5 year old 80% unit. I can't imagine them having much resale value. Also, currently my monthly winter gas and electric bills are "just less than or around 3 figures" per month (since we can't discuss price here), so they're not terrible.

    I don't know the specifics of the Manual J & D but I'd imagine the design/load calculations of today are much better than those that happened in the 1950s. I found this attachment (How to Design a Ducted Distribution System) from a different thread it gives me stuff to look out for. hvac-talk.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=243851&d=1329065426

    I've learned a great deal here. I just don't want to get screwed by the contractor.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    14

    Lightbulb

    Update to this thread, I had a few HVAC contractors come out to look at the system/house. Waited to around this time now that summer is simmering down and it's not heating season yet One company pretty much blew me off and thought while it's possible he didn't really go into too much detail. The second company spent over an hour with me answering questions and making recommendations. I will call some more companies.

    I think moving the furnace is out, it will cost more than double what it would cost to just get new ducting run. I also looked into having a zone 2 Honeywell system put in but that too, is not cost effective.

    The 2nd company was going to reverse the flow of the house, For the main level- put in floor vents all through out the exterior walls . They would also put one big return duct high in the living room and 1 low small return duct in each bedroom (for a total of 3 small, 1 large on the main level). For the basement, one return duct low in the basement and 5 ceiling vents.

    Question- i heard the standard duct boots are the boxy kinds. Is it worth it to get the smooth, round kinds?

    Anything else I should be think about or ask the contractor?

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    The Quad-Cities area (midwest).
    Posts
    2,654
    A couple of ideas for you...........they make oval flue that will fit into a wall cavity (I recommend a 6" stud wall.

    From your (existing) register (map) placement, I can see adding some floor supplies here and there and that should do the trick.

    Yes, moving the furnace, with all that is involved, would be very expensive.

    Is that a wall furnace in the basement? Do you plan on keeping it? That will effect the flue size.

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    14
    Quote Originally Posted by George2 View Post
    A couple of ideas for you...........they make oval flue that will fit into a wall cavity (I recommend a 6" stud wall.

    From your (existing) register (map) placement, I can see adding some floor supplies here and there and that should do the trick.

    Yes, moving the furnace, with all that is involved, would be very expensive.

    Is that a wall furnace in the basement? Do you plan on keeping it? That will effect the flue size.

    Interesting- the oval flue idea I'll keep in mind. As mentioned previously in the thread the 80% furnace vents out the chimney- a chimney I paid "a good amount of money" to have rebuilt 3 years ago. I may just have to live with the slightly reduced space, the chimney area takes about 4 square feet of area in the kitchen. When the furnace dies and I replace it with a high efficiency model, then I can have it vented out the side of the house...

    The wall furnace is going away. I've never used it and don't even think it works. The HVAC company stated they would put a low return right where the wall furnace is. The more I think about this project, the more it may make sense. While we can't discuss price, my other option was to put in a gas stove in the basement for additional heat. That right there will cost close to as much as this project would.

    A few more questions- for the upstairs vents, is it customary for the HVAC installer to provide/install the hard wood flush vents? Or would that be up to someone else, like the flooring installer? On that note, any comments on flush hard wood vents that install with hardwood floors?

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    The Quad-Cities area (midwest).
    Posts
    2,654
    Floor vents are installed by the HVAC contractor. The wood floor registers can be purchaced at Home Depot or Lowe's.

    Because the wood registers are more restrictive to the airflow, buy larger ones first so that the HVAC guy knows what boot/pipe to run.

    You said you'll remove the chimney when you go with a hi-eff. furnace.......don't forget about the water heater. Personally, I don't like the side vent water heaters.

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