Results 27 to 31 of 31
04-01-2012, 08:34 AM #27
So i assume the reversing valve failed because obviously you wouldn't remove it if it was operating in cooling since the electric heat works
04-01-2012, 09:26 AM #28
Id have convinced him to just throw down the money for the RV. I think when he opens up his electric bill this winter he would agree.
04-11-2012, 01:45 PM #29Professional Member*
- Join Date
- Mar 2009
- Mount Holly, NC
I found similar on a non working 5 ton condenser... only the call was, no cooling in the resturant... the accumulator, and the RV were removed... and left open. I asked how long the system was down for... 6 months!
apparently last winter the heat went out, and the answer was to add 15KW duct heaters, and cut out the offending part from the heat pump...
I pulled the miswired heaters, and installed a new 5 ton heat pump (cash up front of course)... lowered their heat bill 600/month...The TRUE highest cost system is the system not installed properly...
The three big summer hearththrobs...
The A/C repairman
04-11-2012, 04:16 PM #30
i go on new construction jobs all the time such as today where the rooftop units are straight a/c and electric heat....i have no idea why..... especially when they are 460 volt...dont draw hardly any amperage...compressor fla is around 8 and the 25.7kw heaters draw 27 amps
04-26-2012, 12:59 PM #31Regular Guest
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
- Henrico, Virginia
I've seen this a few times when years ago the local utility company offered rebates for switching to natural gas appliances. If installing a gas furnace and keeping the outdoor unit of a heat pump system, they required you to make it straight AC only (they did not allow dual fuel setups for the rebate). Personally, I only did one of this conversion type since the heat pump was only 2 years old, but I just changed the wiring so it couldn't run in heat mode and gave them the option to convert back in the future. The utility was satisfied with this method and they got their rebate.