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  1. #53
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Richmond, VA
    Posts
    2,912
    I don't know....I dropped goodman after poor local support for a warranty issue years ago. Which is the reason why you let the pro hvac company use the the equipment they like-because there are issues behind the scenes like warranty support, factory support, parts availability, etc.

  2. #54
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    98
    Quote Originally Posted by beshvac View Post
    No

    I used to work in a city that had 2 goodman distributors. It was a nightmare because you had to figure out which distributor provided the product because they would only warranty what was purchased from them. So warranty claims would get kicked back by them if the unit was purchased from the "other" guy.
    I would have been a bit pissy on that one, the Manufacture is who reimburses the warranty and being that the build date codes are in the serial of the furnace you should have pressed that one. I think the only issue I have had is when the warranty was close to build date and I was trying my hardest to find out when purchased as then the warranty started from that day. Now if the homeowner had there invoice with install date then that changes everything and the warranty starts from day of install. I think you ran into a supplier who didn't want the hassle.

    Quote Originally Posted by Homeowner314 View Post
    Thanks, beshvac.

    If I buy from the local Goodman shop, instead of buying it online and using the (non-Goodman) installer I already know and trust, and pay the extra $$$ for Goodcare, will that be transferable to the buyer when I sell the house in a year or two?

    If not, I suppose there's always a claim for 'warranty of merchantability and fitness for purpose' against the internet seller and/or Goodman for the short time I have the house. Especially if I buy it from a vendor who loudly proclaims the ten year/lifetime factory warranty in his internet advertising.
    I am an Amana dealer which is Goodman's top end furnace. I am meeting with my rep today and will double check the Goodcare policy... I know I have asked this before and for some reason it is sticking in my head that it is transferable one time... I'll let you know later tonight

  3. #55
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    98
    Quote Originally Posted by Homeowner314 View Post
    OK, I'd love to see a good debate about t-stats. Looks like the only meaningful adjustment on the Pro 6000 series is that I can tell it to use 3 cycles or 5 cycles per hour.

    What T-stat do you think I should buy and what would it do for me?

    Should I get the White Rodgers that looks like the Comfortnet, should I kiss my budget goodbye and get the Comfortnet?


    Honeywell actually designs the stats for Goodman/Amana for their whole home comfort systems. They design them to communicate better with the equipment. This being said, I always you the branded model that is similar to the Prestige 2.0. It is a great system and it has the capability to be monitored while your away from home with the RedLink system. You can adjust system temps and turn systems on and off from your Android or Apple based devices.

    BTW, I talked to my installer yesterday, he's afraid of my undersized ducts too and wants to see the system and map out a duct plan ASAP.

    He also told me I should buy a 80%, because I'd never get the money back for a 95% when I sell the place. I don't think he realizes how cheap I can source a 95% Goodman. If propane stays at $3, I can get the difference between 80% and 95% back in one winter. And I think I can get it back on resale if I sell the house this summer.
    I will post back a bit later...

  4. #56
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Richmond, VA
    Posts
    2,912
    Quote Originally Posted by JonesHVAC-R View Post
    I would have been a bit pissy on that one, the Manufacture is who reimburses the warranty and being that the build date codes are in the serial of the furnace you should have pressed that one. I think the only issue I have had is when the warranty was close to build date and I was trying my hardest to find out when purchased as then the warranty started from that day. Now if the homeowner had there invoice with install date then that changes everything and the warranty starts from day of install. I think you ran into a supplier who didn't want the hassle.



    I am an Amana dealer which is Goodman's top end furnace. I am meeting with my rep today and will double check the Goodcare policy... I know I have asked this before and for some reason it is sticking in my head that it is transferable one time... I'll let you know later tonight
    Oh...I did get "pissy" but it did not matter. Now they call me and wonder why I am not buying equipment from them and I have to remind them...."you remember when I purchased a DOA unit from you and you told me "that's what the first year warranty was for?" and "your guy that verifies the warranty has to come out and look at the unit....and he can be out there 1 week from today?" Sure my customer is going to wait a week so some warranty bubba who is going to come out and verify the NEW AC they paid for has to be FIXED???

  5. #57
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    87
    JonesHVAC mentioned in another thread that I found reduced BTU numbers for LP conversions on a factory site.

    The link for that is here at Goodman. (page 3 of the .pdf)

    They give LP output numbers more than 10% lower across the whole GMH95 model line. I assume it just means that they burn 10% less BTU of fuel on propane. Anybody with an * can post the link in this thread if they want.

  6. #58
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    98
    Ok, here's the low down, lol. The Goodcare warranty can be transfered one time as I had thought.

  7. #59
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    87
    Thermostat question:
    Is the 6220 dual fuel capable?
    How about the 8320?

  8. #60
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    68,058
    No the 6220 is not a dual fuel thermostat. The 8320 is.
    Contractor locator map

    How-to-apply-for-Professional

    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  9. #61
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    87
    I wish to thank everyone who generously donated their time to helping me.

    There was a weekend sale, so I devoted my Sunday afternoon to deciding what I'm buying. My best estimate of design heat load is 39k, using simplified online instructions for Manuals J and D. I can knock 6k off that figure by ripping off the siding, installing Typar wrap, and sealing leaks wherever I can find them. (I get 12k BTU/hr for infiltration at one exchange per hour, and should be able to modernize it to 0.5 per hour)

    Manual D tells me that I can just barely move enough air through my current ducts to heat the house, assuming outlet temps 30 above interior temp. If my temp drop in the ducts is low enough to give me warmer outlet temps, so much the better. It turns out my 8x10 trunks are more of a limiting factor than my branches, and I don't want to pay for new trunk lines if I don't have to.

    I will need to have return ducts put in the bedrooms. We're still arguing over whether to put returns in the kitchen/dining/living rooms, I think the central hallway return just off the dining and living rooms should take care of that, installer wants returns in every room but the bathroom/laundry.

    I'm getting the GMH950453BX, a 20x25x5 media box, and a Honeywell 8110 thermostat, mainly because the 6xxx series lacks a 'circ' setting and I want to move air through the filter periodically. The GMH can be set for medium-low on the fan and it won't try to force too much air through the ducts. I was worried a GMVC would kick up the fan too hard.

    A week from now, I should have the furnace sitting on a concrete platform in the basement waiting for my installer to hook it up. It'll be interesting to see how he handles the media box, but he said I could buy the 20x25 instead of the 16x25. (furnace has a 16x25 knockout on the side for return air)

  10. #62
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    98
    Glad we could be of help to you!

  11. #63
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    87

    Update

    tedkidd should read this. My tiny furnace putting out 39,800 btu/hr on propane is too big for my 1200 sq ft, 1970's ranch house in Michigan.

    I'm living in the house, getting 30% run times (10 3/4 minutes out of 35) on low stage in darkness with a moderate breeze with thermostat set to 24 above ambient. That implies I could get about 75-80 above ambient from low stage, if it were possible to run this furnace for more than 12 minutes on low stage. Only other heat sources during the measurements were 350lb of humans and an energy star refrigerator. It looks like my actual load at 0 outside and 70 inside is closer to 28,000 btu/hr than my calculated 39,000 btu, and I should be able to drop that to around 20k with a few $hundred of insulation.

    The only improvement I've made to the house to date is to seal the ductwork. That dropped my basement temps a degree or two, and added maybe two or three degrees to my theoretical ability to heat the house. It's still 64 in the basement with the house at 70, and I've got three drafty single pane steel frame windows down there, with 140' x 2' of 8" cement block basement wall exposed to outside air. I'm surprised at how close to conditioned temps the basement is holding, just from the water heater, furnace, ductwork, and floor above radiating heat down there.

    Last winter my DIY manual J calcs gave me 4400btu/hr for the entire roof (1200 sq ft, 70 design temp, R19) and 8400 btu/hr for the exposed part of the basement walls (280 sq ft, 60 design temp, R2).

    I plan to increase the ceiling insulation to R38 and add R6 of foam sheet to the top 2' of the foundation, as well as insulate the joist pockets above the block wall. If my calculations above are correct, I'll save more from $100 worth of foam and glue than I could by taking the ceiling to R-infinity. Still, $250 worth of attic cellulose to drop my design load by 2200 btu/hr should be well worth doing when I'm paying $2.20 a gallon for propane.

    A friend who's a block mason strongly recommends insulating the outside of a basement rather than the inside, says that by insulating the inside you can drop the wall temp so that the earth up against the wall can freeze and push the wall around.

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