ReplyI've been doing service in this field, for over thirty years. I'ved never used a dye in a system and never will. However, I've seen plenty of systems messed up from the dyes, and still leaking
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Are the dyes UV leak detectors good and which brandname is the best?
I´ve read a lot about this A/C findind leaks methods but I haven´t tried anyone yet.
What do you recommend on this issue please? is this method good?
Thanks
Professional Member
I've been doing service in this field, for over thirty years. I'ved never used a dye in a system and never will. However, I've seen plenty of systems messed up from the dyes, and still leaking
Professional Member
i've never seen a system messed up from dye. Not saying it doesn't happen but i have never seen it. We do use dye. I personally try not to, but sometimes it is a good alternative. I carry the yellow jacket plunger type dye on my truck and have had success with it in the past. I don't believe it is the best way to leak check but when you have tried everything else it's a good alternative in my opinoin.
Professional Member*
ALL dyes are not bad. Just like how mixing new refrigerants with old mineral oils can cause lack of lubrication problems, using the proper dye for a certain type of system is very important. We are talking about chemical reactions with both.
You first want to ensure you are not voiding a manufacturer warranty, then ensure you obtain the proper dye suitable for both the refrigerant and lubricant type. Then ensure you have an applicator that will not fail, even when not under pressure, an applicator that fails can be very messy. Know exactly how to apply the dye by asking others that have actually done it before attempting the job. This is ESPECIALLY true for applications under system pressure!
My bag of leak detection tools contains, Ultrasonic, halide, several types and brands of electronic, big blue soap, several brands of dyes, and the most useful - my EYES. I have found at least as many leaks on systems by first looking for refrig oil and obvious faults such as sketchy welds, pinched tubing, bad or overtightened flares, rubthroughs, cracks, pickled evaporator coils, etc, than I have with any other method.
You really should perfect your leakchecking skills with other types before jumping into the dye pool.
Generally speaking, except for preventive maintenance applications, I try dye applications when other avenues have been exhausted. I have found many leaks over the years that escaped other means as the dye will indicate where the refrigerant has leaked even if it is not leaking at the time I am there.
When applied before there is a leak, a regular inspection with a UV light will catch small leaks before the sight glass or lack of performance indicates there is a leak. It also shows you where to start before pressuring up a flat system with nitro, sometimes allowing you to bypass nitro until the leak has been repaired.
I had a supervisor who took pride in never using a computer by the time he retired. Once he retired and was bored, he started using computers and now builds them from scratch. He proudly said "I have been working for "x" amount of years and have never used a computer and never will, those things cause all sorts of problems!".
The moral of the story is that sometimes you have to look past the "bad reports" of something to find out it's attributes.
As for brandnames, I think highly of Ritchie YellowJacket dyes, dye applicators and most of their other tools for that matter. However I am always looking for better tools no matter what type.
Professional Member*
Great post, very informative! I still would never put dye in a system,but that's just my opinion.
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Professional Member
Spectroline is the only dye approved by Copeland.. If Copeland approved it, why not use it?
I have one of their kits that I've only used once or twice.
http://www.racplus.com/news/emerson-...614383.article
http://www.spectroline.com/hvacr/hvac_kits.html
Professional Member*
Even if you couldn't find the leak by any other means?Originally Posted by jimj
Great post, very informative! I still would never put dye in a system,but that's just my opinion.
I am not saying they are the best option, just that they are an option. When a customer is losing money from lost refrigerant and downtime, I will try anything that is reasonable to make him happy.
Have you had bad experiences with dye?
Professional Member
Point is, unless there is no access to the piping, the leak can be found by other means.
Dye is a lazy way out.
Professional Member*
I used dyetell in the early seventies ( don't tell anyone) and hated the red crap on everything. Today many manufactures recommend against it and as you say in your post there are a lots of other ways to find leaks, so far they have worked for me!
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I have run across a few of those red messes, your secret is safe with me.I used dyetell in the early seventies ( don't tell anyone) and hated the red crap on everything. Today many manufactures recommend against it and as you say in your post there are a lots of other ways to find leaks, so far they have worked for me!
Like I said before, a guy needs to perfect and exhaust all other leak detecting skills before going with dye. I haven't had to use it for over 2 years now and hope I don't have to again.
jpsmith1cms - keep up the good work!
Professional Member*
I am under the same opinion that I would never put this in any system that I work on, but thats just an opinion. To me, refrigerant systems have to be very clean, thats why we are so critical with evacuation, vaccums, and filter dryers. I once pumped a system up to 750psi to find a leak, that I was more willing to do than to use a dye.
Professional Member*
In all my almost 40 years of doing this, I have never used dye (Or maybe I don't remember
But I wish I did a few times.
The thing is- I could have found the most problematic leaks by spending a little more time and effort the first time around.
Whipping through the system with the H10 but not using the "tiny" leak sensitivity is a no-no. Not letting bubbles sit long enough. Not going through the extra work of getting in the 150* attic and doing a thorough test is not savvy. Just looking for traces of oil to leak check because there are other calls waiting isn't the best way.
It's the bad habit of it being the first time at this house and using the old thinking that it is probably a tiny leak and if it runs low again- we'll take a look.
Being lazy, using shortcuts, excuses because there are too many calls to do is a bad habit.
If I use the new attitude I have promised and adopted the last two years, I find all of the leaks now using the H10, bubbles and the extra effort and time. I even found a leak in an evaporator I couldn't find three years in a row- I used more time and persistence.
Might be why I am so slow right now, because the darn units are all working instead of leaking.
Professional Member*
Even R410a with the H10..
I know...
Professional Member
http://www.spectroline.com/graphics_library_logos.html
Some times The customer wants to see where leak is. I live in the show me state. found multiple leaks with bubbles and detek. when leak is in middle of coil
with dye in system you will have a scenic view for customer to see. Boss bought these new kits and ultra violet light you carry around. It used to be a big light in box you had to retrieve it from shop to use. When you have windy conditions, it is ALMOST impossible to find leaks with sniffers, you need device to hear it or see it
Regular Guest
got a problem R-22 unit that I'm having problems locating a leak. holds 200 psi nitrogen for hours. yet loses refrigerant after a few months.
normally soapy bubbles finds em right away. also using two different refrigerant detectors with heated diode tips.
have not tried ultra sonic leak finder yet.
besides oily spots, what else should I be looking for?
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Aircooled condenser or watercooled?
Regular Guest
aircooled condenser ... trace R-22 installed before pressuring up. slowly moved tip set on high Tek Mate, top to bottom. copper lines run under crawspace. that's next ..
ran out of time ... left 150 psi overnight .. really want to find this leak.
Professional Member*
It may be the lazy way out but i can be more cost effective because less labor is needed which is what is the major cost in leak location is.
Now if the system is a R22, is 10 years or greater in age, the cost of location, repair, or replacement of a part, may not even be worth the time or effort. This is another story though
Professional Member*
So if presented with the challenge of leak searching a refrigeration system for an explosion proof HAZMAT vault where unstable VOC's are stored, how would you proceed?Great post, very informative! I still would never put dye in a system,but that's just my opinion.
In this particular situation, attempting to walk into the vault with a heated diode type leak detector would likely get you tackled by a rather large man before you even got to the door, if it didn't get confiscated at the security checkpoint, and infrared sensor type detectors are set off by stuff stored in the vault.
Regular Guest
not a dye but a self sealer ... A/C Leak Freeze
they claim not to hurt the system and that it stays totally inert until it gets activated by a leak. has anyone used A/C Leak Freeze?
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