Heat Pump Issues?!?!?
Let me get right to the details.... I have a 4 ton, 13 Seer, Guardian (York) Heat pump at my house. Air handler/electric furnace is matched 4 ton coil. I've been having problems with it not producing heat. Here's the situation:
I have the thermostat programmed to be at 65 degrees during the day when we are at work and it kicks up to 69 at 5pm when we get home. When it kicks up to 65 the HP comes on with the aux. heat and brings the room up to the set temp normally. Oh, and the aux kicks off when it gets to 69 and the HP continues to bring it the rest of the way till the stat kicks it off. I assume this is how the system is supposed to operate.
Now the temperature is usually in the upper twenties to low thirties this time of the night. During the evening, the stat will call for heat probably two more times before I go to bed around 11:30 or so. The first of two, usually the system will operate properly. The last time it comes on for some reason there is no heat produced and if there is, it is for a short time and then the HP quits putting out heat. When this happens, I go out to the unit and find that most of the time the compressor is running but the refrigerant line is cold to the touch and the condenser fan is running. There is no ice/frost on the exterior of the unit. This makes me assume that the unit is not in defrost mode and that it is not producing heat for some reason.
I've had a repair man (who is also a family member) look at it to determine the problem. When he looked at it, the condenser fan was not running when it should be. The fan was replaced with the proper CFM fan (875 I believe). The capacitor for the fan was also replaced. Refrigerant was low (I was told) and was added to the system. Air handler fan speed was changed to low instead of medium. After this, the unit seemed to run okay for a week or so. Then all of the sudden, the HP quit producing heat again. I go outside and find the unit running, (fan and compressor) and see sparks inside near the compressor. I immediately reached for the shut-off and turned off the unit. The sparks continued and I saw the origin of the sparks were from the capacitor that was hanging down contacting the refrigerant line and arcing. I pulled it away and called the repair man back to fix the problem he created.
He secured the capacitor back away from anything and taped over the terminals. Supposedly, this fixed the problem and the HP was producing heat. Well sure enough, that evening, the same problem reoccurred. No heat.
Repair man back out, says the compressor is kicking out from high pressure for some reason. They replace the txv valve near the outdoor unit and install a filter/dryer. Unfortunately, the same problem existed that evening.
Repair man says he has spoken with York and they say that the system should have a 5 ton coil inside to go along with the 4 ton HP outside???? We just bought this house a couple of months ago. The system is less than four years old. I have a hard time believing that the system should be mismatched to work properly, but I'm no professional. Repair man recommends replacing txv valve near evaporator coil with an adjustable txv. As of right now, that's the plan.
Anyone have any ideas if this might be the fix?
Is the system supposed to be mismatched with a 4 ton HP and a 5 ton coil?
Could there have been some damage to a circuit board or worse, the compressor when the capacitor was arcing to the refrigerant line?
What do you recommend I do?
What specific questions should I ask to be sure it is being diagnosed and not guessed at?
He had told me that the pressures should be at 65 and 260-285.
1coldac, this is the Ask Our Pro's forum, and only Pro members that have been vetted by the AOPC may post advise here. Please apply to the AOPC today, thank you.
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Hey beenthere, do you have this as a form letter, or do you have to type this a 100 times a day?
Originally Posted by beenthere
Get a second opinion by a better serviceman.
sounds like he is guessing
low refrigerant then going off on high pressure
replaces a motor you said was working and cant get it right the first time
replaces to txv outside now wants to replace the one inside that has nothing to do with heat mode
you need a real service tech before you go broke
"Thermostatic Exansion Valve valves?"
Originally Posted by jtnez23
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Are you paying this family member if so this can be a hard situation. you should hire someone who may be more familiar with your unit and one that you wont loose a family member over.
Ok, while I'm waiting on the repair man I decided to check a few things myself. He left his gauges connected to the system so I took some observations and read a ton of info on the net.
I checked subcool and superheat. Found pressure on low side at 57 and high 282 after stabilizing for about fifteen minutes. Looking at the temp/pressure chart those convert to about 32 degrees and 126 degrees for my R-22 system.
Line temp was measured on the lines exiting the evap coil on the indoor unit since it acts as the condenser in heat mode. Found line temps at 74 and 168.
Differences of 42 degrees on both. So I assume that means subcool and superheat are both 42 degrees. Sounds awful high from what I've read. Does that mean the system is overcharged?? Did I figure that correctly?
I don't think my family repair man checked subcool when charging. I was standing next to him and he was just watching the pressures on the gauges.
Please don't just reply with get a new repair man. Since he is a family member and he started working on it, I need to try and let him finish it. If he can't soon though, I may not have a choice.
Can't take SH at the indoor coil in heating mode.
I took the temp readings at the outdoor unit as well. They were 69 and 175. So the subcool was 37 outside and superheat was 49. I took them inside after that because I read that the subcool reading had to be near the evap coil since its the condenser in heat mode.