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Thread: ok what is it?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Nashville,TN
    Posts
    102

    ok what is it?

    Im working on a RUUD Model #UPKA036JAZ. in heat mode it kick the high pressure swith. The head pressure is 325psi and the suction pressure is 60psi. i checked both coils both fan motors and capacitors, everything is clean and ruuning smooth. Compressor RLA 14.1 amps outdoor fan 1.3 amps. Everything seems ok, however I ran out of light before i could check temp drops. would you suspect the 4way valve or TEV blockage? I have a buddy who's had the same issue's on the same unit and switched it out. Im going back today around 4 and going to check temp drop across the 4 way, but was wondering if any of you have seen this issue with a ruud HP and what you did to solve it.
    --Men fight for freedom, then they make laws to take it away from themselves!--

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    SouthEast NC ICW & Piedmont Foothills
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    7,635
    what's the discharge pressure?

    what psi is switch rated for?

    22 or 410?
    It`s better to be silent and thought the fool; than speak and remove all doubt.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Nashville,TN
    Posts
    102
    its an R22 system Switch is rated for 350psi and the discharge temp at the compressor was 105 degrees.
    --Men fight for freedom, then they make laws to take it away from themselves!--

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Asheville, N.C.
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    103
    What happened when you engaged defrost or cooling mode?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    New Orleans
    Posts
    1,012
    possibly non condensables. Or another restriction,

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Round Rock
    Posts
    3,517
    While I have no idea if this is the answer. A buddy of mine installs Ruud and had this problem a few years ago. He switched out the defrost board and as far as I know the problem went away. At least we never talked about it anymore after he did that.
    I like DIY'ers. They pay better to fix.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Nashville,TN
    Posts
    102
    mmm things to ponder! I would like to tear into this and see if I can fix it, but on the other hand this unit is 16 year old and the customer may replace the outdoor unit.
    --Men fight for freedom, then they make laws to take it away from themselves!--

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Sacramento/Stockton Area
    Posts
    59
    Restricted/ collapsed return air duct?

    I don't think I would suspect the reversing valve. If it leaked I think you would have lower head /high suction pressure.

    Dirty filters inside the house?
    I say this because last night I was on a 90% gas furnace that was tripping on high-limit.
    The air filter in the garage at the air handler was clean, and the homeowner informs me he washes it every month.
    I go inside the house to start taking a temp-rise. I glance up at the return grill and find a dirty filter there. Homeowner says "oh, I forgot about that".

    I've ran into heat pumps that had nonconsensibles in the system. Ran fine in A/C, but tripped the hi-pressure cutout in heating due to the smaller indoor coil.

    But, if it was non-consensibles, that would mean there's been air in the system before you arrived. Since it's mid-winter, (assuming nobody else has worked on it) wouldn't the high pressure cutout started opening earlier at the beginning of winter when they first started running it in heat?
    Just a thought. Keep us posted.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    south al.
    Posts
    111
    I think I would rule out low airflow across the indoor coil because if that was driving the high up usually the suction would go up also. Generally a refrigerant flow restriction makes the head go go up and suction go down so i would look at the outdoor txv.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Sulphur La.
    Posts
    180
    Most R22 units have a control that trips at 400 to 410 psig. You may have a bad control or if yourchecking at the liquid line valve move to the discharge between the compressor and reversing valve where the control is attached.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
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    6,007
    You are severely overcharged. Id recommend.recovering charge - see how much is in there.

    Weigh in proper amount and diagnose from there.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Ashland Ky
    Posts
    19
    I believe you may be over charged also. what is the outside temp when you was checking if the temp outside. 60psi may be high suction if you was so cold you should have been running 20psi. What was the subcooing and superheat temp and did you turn on the heaters and do a temp rise to get you cfm's. you should have about a 150 to 175 temp on discharge line if not then you may be overcharged causing flood back which is dropping our temp

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Sherman, TX
    Posts
    9,441
    Sounds overcharged.

    I don't want to start a pissing contest over how to (or if you can) charge a heat pump in the winter, but I typically look for 20-30 degrees over indoor ambient on the high side, and somewhere around 20 degrees under outdoor ambient on heat pump mode.
    Technical incompetence is NOT a sales tool....

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