Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 14 to 26 of 30
  1. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Sherman, TX
    Posts
    9,441
    If I read your valve model correctly, it's an intermittent spark valve that can also be used as a universal valve.

    In your application, after the inducer closes the pressure switch, a Honeywell S8610 (or similar) module should open the pilot valve and initiate spark to light the pilot.

    It probably has a Honeywell ST9120 control board as well, to control the inducer and the blower.

    After the pilot proves, the module will open the main valve. The valve should have three terminals..."PV" (pilot valve), "PV/MV" (common), and "MV" (main valve).

    Selling them a new furnace won't teach you a thing. Figure it out and learn from it.

    Come back here for more help if need be.....we're here for you.
    Technical incompetence is NOT a sales tool....

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    4,970
    1 post and you guys are giving advice ????????? I think this homeowner should call a reputable heating company and Quit playing like he is a tech

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Fairfield county Connecticuit
    Posts
    778
    no advice given here he would need to be a tech to do or even know what I said besides checking if he has fuel in the tank if its lp we never received that answer.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    bedford ind
    Posts
    1,085
    we can't help giving advice. W are very sympathetic.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    562
    He's in a tech-to-tech forum.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    12
    had a keeprite gas unit that would get to the point of lighting the pilot then main valve opened and a good flame would be there then die back. Sometimes it would burn for a few seconds or few minutes... found out the gas company had a bad meter/reg and it was choking off the supply. The guy was way out in the country.

  7. #20
    Thanks guys! I am sorry for not updating sooner! I am not just a home owner trying to do it myself. Markvilleman put me on the right track. I went back and checked the honywell board and it was bad. Changed board heat fired and everyon was happy! Now A/C season has started early down here in Memphis TN and I am loving it! Not much of a winter here so I am well rested. Thanks for the advice guys and Ill check back in sooner so I am not labeled a diy.

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    9
    Ide say check your flame sen. And your pc board. also dont forget them limits. test every thing individualy

  9. #22
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    38
    Quote Originally Posted by dec View Post
    1 post and you guys are giving advice ????????? I think this homeowner should call a reputable heating company and Quit playing like he is a tech
    He is in a tech to tech forum which means he previously had to get his post to 15 before aloud to come here right? Give the new guys a break, I am still new myself and dont need constructive criticism, we are trying to make a living just like everyone else.

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    SouthEast NC ICW & Piedmont Foothills
    Posts
    7,619
    Quote Originally Posted by allenwrench View Post
    He is in a tech to tech forum which means he previously had to get his post to 15 before aloud to come here right? Give the new guys a break, I am still new myself and dont need constructive criticism, we are trying to make a living just like everyone else.

    dude that character only has 2 post, where do you get that kind of bad info.

    thec2tech is a back door for homeowners that should have never been opened.

    there is no vetting for tech2tech

    clues you are dealing with a homeowner:
    1- not near enough info in the first post
    2-terminology
    3-wording of problem
    those could also pertain to a slack @ssed tech to, which there is no difference between the two

    i'm just old and gruppy, wtf do I knopw
    It`s better to be silent and thought the fool; than speak and remove all doubt.

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Sherman, TX
    Posts
    9,441
    Quote Originally Posted by dandyme View Post
    clues you are dealing with a homeowner:
    1- not near enough info in the first post
    2-terminology 3-wording of problem
    those could also pertain to a slack @ssed tech to, which there is no difference between the two

    i'm just old and gruppy, wtf do I know
    Dad started doing this when I was ten, and I'm 52 now. We are both self-taught for the most part....I had never heard the term "flat" used to describe a system out of refrigerant until about 2 years ago.....Terminology alone, is not grounds to declare someone a "slack-assed tech"....
    Technical incompetence is NOT a sales tool....

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    21
    And why are we bring back a post from April for something that's already been fixed?!

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    St. Louis
    Posts
    2,926
    Quote Originally Posted by icesoft View Post
    And why are we bring back a post from April for something that's already been fixed?!
    Why not?

    I bet it was a bad ground in the flame rectification "circuit" which was incidently corrected when changing the board.

    This assumes, of course, that he had 24v across MV/PV and MV for a few seconds until the control stopped it for lack of uA coming back. He didn't say if he cleaned the flame rod...

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Comfortech Show Promo Image

Related Forums

Plumbing Talks | Contractor Magazine
Forums | Electrical Construction & Maintenance (EC&M) Magazine
Comfortech365 Virtual Event