Furnance kicked my rookie butt today

[John Markl]

If I read your valve model correctly, it's an intermittent spark valve that can also be used as a universal valve.

In your application, after the inducer closes the pressure switch, a Honeywell S8610 (or similar) module should open the pilot valve and initiate spark to light the pilot.

It probably has a Honeywell ST9120 control board as well, to control the inducer and the blower.

After the pilot proves, the module will open the main valve. The valve should have three terminals..."PV" (pilot valve), "PV/MV" (common), and "MV" (main valve).

Selling them a new furnace won't teach you a thing. Figure it out and learn from it.

Come back here for more help if need be.....we're here for you.

[dec]

1 post and you guys are giving advice ????????? I think this homeowner should call a reputable heating company and Quit playing like he is a tech

[Danimal535]

no advice given here he would need to be a tech to do or even know what I said besides checking if he has fuel in the tank if its lp we never received that answer.

[ironpit]

we can't help giving advice. W are very sympathetic.

[ChrisTechMech]

He's in a tech-to-tech forum.

[vapourman]

had a keeprite gas unit that would get to the point of lighting the pilot then main valve opened and a good flame would be there then die back. Sometimes it would burn for a few seconds or few minutes... found out the gas company had a bad meter/reg and it was choking off the supply. The guy was way out in the country.

[Dwarren2012]

Thanks guys! I am sorry for not updating sooner! I am not just a home owner trying to do it myself. Markvilleman put me on the right track. I went back and checked the honywell board and it was bad. Changed board heat fired and everyon was happy! Now A/C season has started early down here in Memphis TN and I am loving it! Not much of a winter here so I am well rested. Thanks for the advice guys and Ill check back in sooner so I am not labeled a diy.

[abeto]

Ide say check your flame sen. And your pc board. also dont forget them limits. test every thing individualy

[allenwrench]

1 post and you guys are giving advice ????????? I think this homeowner should call a reputable heating company and Quit playing like he is a tech

He is in a tech to tech forum which means he previously had to get his post to 15 before aloud to come here right? Give the new guys a break, I am still new myself and dont need constructive criticism, we are trying to make a living just like everyone else.

[dandyme]

He is in a tech to tech forum which means he previously had to get his post to 15 before aloud to come here right? Give the new guys a break, I am still new myself and dont need constructive criticism, we are trying to make a living just like everyone else.

dude that character only has 2 post, where do you get that kind of bad info.

thec2tech is a back door for homeowners that should have never been opened.

there is no vetting for tech2tech

clues you are dealing with a homeowner:
1- not near enough info in the first post
2-terminology
3-wording of problem
those could also pertain to a slack @ssed tech to, which there is no difference between the two

i'm just old and gruppy, wtf do I knopw

[John Markl]

clues you are dealing with a homeowner:
1- not near enough info in the first post
2-terminology 3-wording of problem
those could also pertain to a slack @ssed tech to, which there is no difference between the two

i'm just old and gruppy, wtf do I know

Dad started doing this when I was ten, and I'm 52 now. We are both self-taught for the most part....I had never heard the term "flat" used to describe a system out of refrigerant until about 2 years ago.....Terminology alone, is not grounds to declare someone a "slack-assed tech"....

[icesoft]

And why are we bring back a post from April for something that's already been fixed?!

[hurtinhvac]

And why are we bring back a post from April for something that's already been fixed?!

Why not?

I bet it was a bad ground in the flame rectification "circuit" which was incidently corrected when changing the board.

This assumes, of course, that he had 24v across MV/PV and MV for a few seconds until the control stopped it for lack of uA coming back. He didn't say if he cleaned the flame rod...