ReplyMy first suggestion.Originally Posted by Dwarren2012
Stop reading voltages to ground when you really want to read across the coil.
What was the voltage from red to black on the gas valve?
New Guest
Guys I need some opinions this am. Working on a Tempstar NUG5075BFA2. It has a VR8204M1075 gas valve. The t-stat calls for heat, inducer goes and closes the pressure switch. They the direct spark ignightor starts sparking and there is a poof of gas that comes from the piliot tube that imd goes out. The gas valve is getting 24v on the red wire and 12v on the black. Do you guys think the valv is bad? This is the first one wire spark ignition system I have seen.
Professional Member
My first suggestion.
Stop reading voltages to ground when you really want to read across the coil.
What was the voltage from red to black on the gas valve?
Professional Member
you need a new furnace, hive me a call, hurry, hurry, theres only a few thousand left
Professional Member
Does anything prove that there is a pilot flame? Thermocouple?
Professional Member*
Sometimes a puff of pressure then nothing, will happen when the gas is turned off{residual pressure buildup through an almost closed valve or plug left in by gas company}. When something is kicking your butt it's a good idea to start over and never assume even the simple things. You will be surprised how often it's something really simple...good luck
Professional Member
Did you clean the pilot tube and pilot?
Professional Member*
+1 and clean the orfice.
Ride hard on a Harley!!
Professional Member
Right some times its the simplest things!
Professional Member*
LP gas or natural what was your gas pressure in out?
Professional Member
are you using a manometer?
Professional Member*
I dont think he checked the gas pressure prob lp with no gas in the tank LOL
Professional Member
I've done the same!
Professional Member
What kind of control board u have? Is it a black box build of Honeywell smart valve? If positive,then check the board first before u condemn the valve. Good luck.
Professional Member*
If I read your valve model correctly, it's an intermittent spark valve that can also be used as a universal valve.
In your application, after the inducer closes the pressure switch, a Honeywell S8610 (or similar) module should open the pilot valve and initiate spark to light the pilot.
It probably has a Honeywell ST9120 control board as well, to control the inducer and the blower.
After the pilot proves, the module will open the main valve. The valve should have three terminals..."PV" (pilot valve), "PV/MV" (common), and "MV" (main valve).
Selling them a new furnace won't teach you a thing. Figure it out and learn from it.
Come back here for more help if need be.....we're here for you.
Technical incompetence is NOT a sales tool....
Professional Member
1 post and you guys are giving advice ????????? I think this homeowner should call a reputable heating company and Quit playing like he is a tech
Professional Member*
no advice given here he would need to be a tech to do or even know what I said besides checking if he has fuel in the tank if its lp we never received that answer.
Professional Member
we can't help giving advice. W are very sympathetic.
Professional Member
He's in a tech-to-tech forum.
Regular Guest
had a keeprite gas unit that would get to the point of lighting the pilot then main valve opened and a good flame would be there then die back. Sometimes it would burn for a few seconds or few minutes... found out the gas company had a bad meter/reg and it was choking off the supply. The guy was way out in the country.
New Guest
Thanks guys! I am sorry for not updating sooner! I am not just a home owner trying to do it myself. Markvilleman put me on the right track. I went back and checked the honywell board and it was bad. Changed board heat fired and everyon was happy! Now A/C season has started early down here in Memphis TN and I am loving it! Not much of a winter here so I am well rested. Thanks for the advice guys and Ill check back in sooner so I am not labeled a diy.
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