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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    214
    I can ask. My brother thinks it could be the cavity under the plastic pad acting as a subwoofer. We are considering putting some fiberglass in the cavity as a test. I emailed the contractor, they are going to have the secretary call me to schedule a time to have the installer come back out and check it.

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    214
    I spoke with a neighbor who has the same system and he too hears this sound on his second floor. He says he actually thought it was a helicopter one morning.
    So, not sure what I can do here. He also has his mounted just like mine, so I will still try to fill the cavity below the HP. It is a very deep tone and as a result it moves right through the wall.
    Has anybody every removed the metal shell around the condensor and sound deadened it?

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Northern VA 38 degrees N by 76 degrees W
    Posts
    5,060
    Quote Originally Posted by clydesdale View Post
    I spoke with a neighbor who has the same system and he too hears this sound on his second floor. He says he actually thought it was a helicopter one morning.
    So, not sure what I can do here. He also has his mounted just like mine, so I will still try to fill the cavity below the HP. It is a very deep tone and as a result it moves right through the wall.
    Has anybody every removed the metal shell around the condensor and sound deadened it?
    Why is the unit setting against the building and so close to the other unit?

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    214
    That is the way the other one was and this is what stinks about condo living. There is not a whole lot of latitude as to where you can put it. The other one was fairly close to the building as well. I want to say that it is about a foot or so from the building.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    214
    Also, it is not the wall right next to the unit that is giving me trouble. It is the wall on the right side of the pictures, the one that the shed and then short wall. There is a thread right now that the guy is dealing with a 16i that was resonating. He had the unit put on rubber isolators and it seems to have worked. My installer says he has never done this before.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    214
    How do I know if this fan has the sweep blade or a standard blade? Are there different fan options with the XL15i?

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    214
    What will the usual process be to figure this out? Should I have them turn the condensing fan on only and not the compressor? This way we can see if it is the fan or the compressor?
    I notice that the noise coming from inside the wall is definitely greatest where the lineset runs, yet holding it outside does nothing. I am worried that I may be screwed with this thing. I never thought I would here this thing inside on the second floor in a room that the unit is not up against.

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Northern VA 38 degrees N by 76 degrees W
    Posts
    5,060
    Quote Originally Posted by clydesdale View Post
    How do I know if this fan has the sweep blade or a standard blade? Are there different fan options with the XL15i?
    The swept blade has been used on that unit since 2005. What geographical location are you in? If it is a cold climate where you get snow or the chance of the water refreezing after defrost, then you would need pump ups to prevent damage to the coil.

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    214
    Ok, I am in the northeast, I get snow and ice. Are the pump-ups vibration isolators as well, or are they made of hard plastic? What about having the unit just placed on rubber isolators, Trane part number BAYISLT101? I imagine that would lift it off a little. The unit is not that loud outside next to it, but one story up and inside, it is annoying.

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Beatrice, NE
    Posts
    2,027
    Looking at the installation I would level the pad on the ground and put the supports between the pad and unit with rubber isolators.

    Second if it is resonating in the wall you need to have the lines lines moved so they are not tight against the any part of the wall structure. They need to float free so they don't carry sound, the wall acts as a sound board which amplifies the sound. I am not saying the lines need to be taken out and moved although that may be the final solution. Usually moving the lines so there is not pressure against the structure is enough. It's just a matter of finding the magic spot and making an adjustment.

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    214
    Do they need to evacuate the system and disconnect it in order to lower it down and put it on isolators?

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Northern VA 38 degrees N by 76 degrees W
    Posts
    5,060
    Quote Originally Posted by clydesdale View Post
    Do they need to evacuate the system and disconnect it in order to lower it down and put it on isolators?
    Depending on your exact location and the code that is adopted when installed will determine what should be done. Elevating the pad above grade as you have it is in 2009 cycle but your jurisdiction may be on 2006 still. The pump up legs would go on top of the pad to separate the bottom of the unit from the pad to create a distance to let the water drain during defrost and snow accumulation.

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    214
    Do the pump up legs work as well as the rubber isolators to dampen sound? Almost none of the 306 units in my complex have pump up legs. I see a few have them and some others are on short rubber discs. I would say 80-90% are just flat on the pad. Mine was flat on the pad for 13 years, but it did not make ANY noise in the house. I had to open the window to confirm it was on.
    Do they need to disconnect the unit to make any of these adjustments?

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