It depends if the frame of the ceramic burner got torched/welded to the receiver slide of the fry tank. You will need to remove the blower fan and the insulation and blower box that you see in front of the tank. Remove the pilot electrode. If it doesn't slide out now you will need to pull real hard. When replacing the burner you will need furnace cement and the gasket kit. Check the tank slide and make sure it is not damaged or warped.
What do you use the furnace cement for? I have never used that to do a burner change. I would advise changing the ignitors, checking the relay on the control board for pitting of the contacts, cleaning the blower fan if needed as well as the burner orifices and checking gas pressure. If you don't find out what caused the burner to crack, the new one will probably crack for the same reson.
What do you use the furnace cement for? I have never used that to do a burner change.
I've never rebuilt a pasta cooker. However, older HE fryers required furnace cement to fill the gaps at the two (front & back) lower corners of each burner rail to properly seal up the combustion chamber.
Just last week I had installed a vat which somebody in our our shop had rebuilt. That vat did not have that furnace cement. During operational test, the fryer would emit a muffled, almost indiscernible "POP" (gas/air leakage) through that gap during ignition. It so happened that the extra insulation suspending down from those joints would then glow RED HOT as the burners got up to speed. A "mirror" test will reveal such a leakage.
I tore the vat down again and discovered that it WASN'T sealed at those corners with furnace cement. Once I properly "bedded" those corners and reassembled the vat, the problem went away.