Type: Posts; User: energy_rater_La
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where is the return located?
ceiling? in a chase with a wall return?
pics from inside the return (door open, filter removed)
would be helpful.
as would pics of attic side of return.
I'd be blower door testing that foam job.
can you post pics of the foam at the roof to attic floor (eaves/soffit) seal?
this is where I usually find leakage.
what depth/how many inches of foam...
can of foaming coil cleaner & fin combs.
buy fin combs with changeable heads to fit
the specific fins per inch of your coil.
coil cleaner that you leave on the coils.
both available at hvac...
sometimes these little tips are very useful.
a flame next to a double paned low e window will reflect the orange
flame on the pane of glass that the low e coating is
what were your blower door numbers & what is sq ft of living space?
blower door test won't tell you the amount of duct leakage
without taping off all the supply grills & the return grill.
then blower door test is done...once you have the whole house
wait a minute!!!
so I had to do lkapigian's test.
when opening the window & flicking my bick
the flame stays straight up.
my ductwork is well sealed, but is inside the
conditioned space (in fur...
pics of return. from attic and from inside return please.
Could have installing crew that don't know what they're doing?
this is usually the case in my experience.
low pay man runs duct.
ducts/plenums/connections should be properly mastic sealed.
a blower door test, in conjunction with a thermal scan of the room will show you
an excellent visual of the problems of the frog.
great blog post by Alison Bales, just feel like he missed a great...
great wall of text indeed!!
don't start a new thread...all details need to be within the same
thread to make it easy for us to follow.
replacing windows will get you at best a 14% energy...
as we move to higher efficiency equipment, the air is colder leaving
put this into a vented attic and you get condensation.
your 15 year old system was 10-12 seer, now you have 19...
if the supply ducts are leaking at the plenum, then where
the plenum connects to the equipment probably isn't well sealed
mastic seal all connections
including return plenum. a leaky...
Am I missing something here?
to me it seems like one vent goes to the return?
granted Austin is miles ahead of La. in terms of energy
efficiency...but if I put an open vent from attic into return...
dampered combustion vents?
you don't need the combustion air until the furnace runs...
but there is a lot of liability for anyone to tell you to close them off.
there is the possibility that you...
that bucket of mastic they put on is adding to the humidity.
did they go into the attic & use the insulation...ductboard I'm
assuming..to seal at the top of the closet?
the duct boards...
why would you need to clean sealed ducts?
is this gas heat? return below?
take a few steps back & take larger area pic.
show the top of the closet
mid ways of the closet
the platform & bottom of the unit.
then take a pic of the return...
in my area, heating only ducts are usually 6" duct.
fine for the old heating systems, but a/c has more velocity
thus the ducts are undersized at 6".
that is as simple as I can put it, hope it...
yeah...great little pdf file ! Southface has some good info
from my own experience, I'll tell you to forgo the
great stuff. it over expands and doesn't make an
airtight seal. plus it will...
what did you do with the two supplies from the central system?
left them in place?
dumped the air elsewhere?
capped them off?
as for the foam board.
measure, cut & number your pieces to take...
you know it is summer when you see these posts!
rooms over garages are always a pita to cool.
these rooms are surrounded on top, bottom and sides
by extreme attic temps. and usually at best have...
your kneewalls are insulated, but attic temps are extreme.
as you realized, R-13 does little to combat 120+ degree temps
in attic from transferring into the living space.
page 5 of the linked...
Wait now...what's that?
oh that it could be true here!
you have 2 options
1- fix the room
2-oversize hvac system to overcome building failures.
option one...reduce heat gain & stop air infiltration into the room
so that a/c allocated to it can do...
leave 3/4 of the vent uncovered, keep that tiny 3/4" air space over
the last 1/4 under the monster sub.
call a pro.
move the vent.
think to replacing 2 ton unit on 600 sq ft room.
"Most people couldn't pour water out of a boot if the instructions were written on the heel. "
now that is pretty good!
"I won’t sweat the small stuff like doing a flow test or an energy...
this pic is a case of mold with uv light bandaid.
the source of mold was the leaky duct collars on the plenum.
one of the reasons why I promote sealing ducts before this happens.
a sealed duct...
where is the mold?
where is the component with the mold located?
is it mold?
and in the areas where the UV light doesn't shine...
this pic says it all.
once duct system, plenums & connections are sealed...
and stay sealed...there is nothing growing for uv light...
the problem with mobile homes (!) is that the ductwork
for the residence is located within the belly of the mobile home.
then the belly is pumped full of insulation.
you can't address the...
as you unwrap the failed duct wrap, you'll want to add screws where needed.
each ell should have at least 3 screws ( 1/4" self tapping sheet metal screws).
use a paint on mastic to seal all joints...
one picture is of hard pipe ducting with duct wrap that is failing.
rather than tear out the hard pipe, unwrapping it, mastic sealing
the joints & seams and re-wrapping with R-8 ductwrap would be...
call more companies and let them know it is a mobile home upfront.
with no other bids to compare bill/bob's quote has no basis for
where are you located?
I didn't realize trailers...
(y'all are getting too complacent here...time to shake y'all up!)
and do know, that while I agree 100% with the picture,
sorry to hear of your health issues.
glad to know you are on the mend.
a better idea would be a small supply to push the return air out of the closet.
adding a transfer grill from closet to next room would be even better than
using the undercut of the door.
nothing to add except that I wish I'd had neighbors like
you when I lived in the city.
best of luck.
supervisor was appeasing homeowner.
installers could have sealed, they just didn't want to.
and it will cost more to operate.
just thought the above points needed repeating.
cheap becomes expensive quickly.
best of luck.
for some reason shophound I thought you went with white metal roof,
dunno where I got that!
I re-roofed the addition on my house by putting foil/foam sheathing
on top of the rafters, then 3/4"...
you'd want to specify that any roof jacks be replaced,
all flashings, valley flashing included, be inspected prior to installing
new shingles, replaced if necessary and that new drip edge is...
you should also mastic seal duct takeoffs at plenum, plenum connections
to equipment. if you have access.
if you hire out...specify materials to be used.
I use only paint on mastic or the mastic...
not sure what you mean by fresh air problem...
but I'd first address the uninsulated walls with the holes cut into them for more return air.
as the air returns it is sucking through these holes in...
how is it set up?
what is your location?
here in the hot humid south we duct our fresh air intake
to the return air, this allows for dehumidification of fresh
air before it enters the house....
let's look at the sentence that stands out to me:
Your system was sized based on heating capacity which is evident in the fact that you said there was no issue with heating.
and this post was...
good to see that the focus is on the duct system!
sizing of ducts, and mastic sealing of ductwork is an important
step often left out by companies selling equipment & not comfort.
best of luck
my mistake. I thought air handler units had been installed.
can you install your ductwork in furdowns in the house & locate
ahu's inside house?