Type: Posts; User: energy_rater_La
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closing the top of the heating closet around the supply plenum...right?
I use ductboard, installed with foil side facing into the heating closet.
use caulk or paint on type mastic to air
or in the attic.
where is the venting for the stove located?
yes you should address the moisture. solve the problem of the
moisture & the issue goes away.
start by testing the ducts for leakage.
you don't state if it is flex or hard pipe ducting.
kudos to you polling your friends & fb friends
for hvac companies!
best of luck.
not to be obtuse, but what is commissioned?
I can't remember ever hearing that term before.
you could do it with 3 tons.
the tradeoff for the higher cost of foam insulation
is smaller hvac system.
if you oversize you'll never get the dehumdification.
in a tight house, you'll need to...
when I was doing field work for my utility co-op it would
drive the utility guy nuts when I wouldn't put the brand
of the system.
instead of just filling in a blank, he had to call the
you should be looking at single stage 3.5 ton heat pumpsystem
with a variable speed air handler.
upsizing the unit will result in ductwork issues without
modifications to the duct system.
duct leakage & foil bubble foil wrap has little to no R-value
I agree that a heat pump is the right equip to install.
having been in the house for a short time, you
& your wife should start writing down the comfort
issues you have in your home.
I'm a big fan of media filters.
once duct system is mastic sealed &
r/a is sealed air tight.
no sense in putting a good filter on
a leaky duct system.
my order of filters:
insulation doesn't go bad.
thanks for the update.
and the link. I read on this forum often
about people setting tstat to on rather
than auto. I thought it was just a hot/humid
climate thing, so I learned something!
why isn't insulation talked about more for hotter climates especially in the south where there are no basements and the AC ducts and sometimes the units themselves are located in the attic?
$600 to strap ducts...pricy!
flex should be tight straight runs with no sags
or restrictions. any curves should be gentle curves
not 45 degree bends.
I don't have issue with flex as long as...
just wanted to thank udarrel for his contributions to
you the man udarrel!
good luck with your HW co.OP
you don't by chance have a pregnant woman in the house?
for example hot dry climates can bury ducts in insulation.
here in my hot humid climate ducts condensate where they
touch the vapor barrier of another duct, or if they touch...
it is worth it. if R-12 was made it would also be worth it.
more insulation around pipes moving hot/cold air is
a worthwhile investment. same labor...just better
electric heat isn't energy efficient, so you
won't easily find an energy star rated one.
a few years ago utility companies gave free
water heaters to homeowners to switch out
from gas. big...
I would also wonder why it fails.
seems to be a symptom of a problem
undiagnosed so far.
you need a problem solver,
not a parts changer.
best of luck.
duct wrap. R-8 is the highest R-value you can get.
you'll need a duct stapler (& staples)
sharp razor knife
fsk tape (foil scrim kraft...same stuff as duct wrap)
I'd unwrap, add screws at...
Stick with the single stage a/c with a VS blower for fine tuning.
and OP, think about a whole house dehumidifier.
sorry I missed this....I often cut the 3" into 1 1/2" strips.
you only need to seal from sheetrock into the metal of the
the supply box.
use a razor knife & clean off the metal & the sheetrock....
I'm not a fan of pleated filters unless they are 4" media filters.
the 1" filters are too restrictive.
take a supply grill off from inside your house.
you'll see that the supply box is insulated...
all that and back to txv. LOL!
keep us posted OP!
I think that many people are not aware of this Dan.
IMO, it bears repeating.
...warranties are based on # of times the unit
can start. oversized systems starting numerous times
per hour, have...
thanks to OP for posting their positive experience.
and nice job Brent!
use some of the mastic tape to seal the boxes to the sheetrock
ceiling. like this:
drop me an email.
my email address is accessed by clicking on
y'all have been busy!
I agree with mr bill that the ducts should be
strapped out of the insulation. where the ducts
lie on the insulation...it will condensate.
as to the insulation...I see...
you need to have the duct changed.
have all ducts inspected, change out
any that have the inner lining torn or
sorry to tell you that there really
isn't a "fix" for this.
I just love it when homeowners have data logging equipment.
glad to see that you get where we are
going with this. nice to see someone open to
discussion of how to achieve the remedy.
a few things.
first this. perfect common sense answer...
"It takes two to three times the power to start a unit than to run it. So if you're starting and stopping these units more often, then...
is master bedroom door closed at night?
it may be a return air issus..lack of r/a I should say?
adding dampers after new ductwork install
and after new insulation...going to be a pita!
check returns for duct leakage. I'd start by
going into the attic & feeling for leakage, cold spots
on ducts/plenums and wet insulation. (depending on
in my hot humid...
it could be panned joist returns.
hard to say without seeing any pics.
this is such a good post.
good stuff Teddy Bear!!
although I had to think about that filter restriction comment
for a minute or two.
ducts are usually hard pipe or flex.
I've never seen duct board ducts, just
supply & return plenums.
all are good materials when installed correctly.
problems are when the materials are...
well then if he simply disconnected & reconnected the return
then it couldn't possibly have any leakage.
when working in attics, things often
get bumped & banged into. seals get broken without...
be prepared to find the leakage areas.
crawling around the eaves of the attic
feeling for air with your can of spray paint.
and if the leaks are big...try to avoid the
paint being blown into...
you'll get better humidity control with the variable speed ahu.
in our hot humid climates it is an excellent upgrade.
worth every penny.
lower air speed will give you more dehumidification,...
we have all had bad tstats.
hope your problems are solved.
best of luck.
I can't see it from here.
so the r/a is in the dining room.
ceiling or wall?
this is what you might want to consider.
when the unit was replaced, they may
not have properly...
3 kids under 5 add a lot of air changes per hour.
much different if it were an older couple who stayed
inside a lot.
that said...I'm a big fan of ultraire dehumidifiers.
I have one in my home,...
I know that area!
so, where is the return air for the 4 ton system located?
return air leakage contributes to high RH.
with the install of the new system,
something may have changed with the...
have the house tested with a blower door.
this will measure air leakage & a calculation
can be done to convert into air changes per hour.
from that the amount of fresh air needed can be...
rafter faces covered at at least
an inch over the faces & between joists 7" of R-4 open cell foam
is R-28 close enough in my hot humid climate.
understand the pricing of foam insulation.
so, there were no issues with the old systems, correct?
only when the 4 ton system was replaced did the floor
where is the return air for the 4 ton system located?