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Good luck with that..

What the heck is that in there??

That's over 1100 feet per minute on the return grille and the filter... Sounds like it would be a little noisy in a residential system...

Nah, that screw's supposed to be there... It's thw shipping screw...

What's wrong is that orange cover on the damper motor... It clashes with the gray base...

Sheesh, if it leaked 2 lbs in a month, you should almost be able to hear it... Well, maybe not but a reasonably good leak detector ought to pick that one up...

As a side note, you will know when you have found the right part because you will no voltage between L1 and T1, etc...

Also one last place to check for a high resistance ground is the T1 T2 & T3...

Take it!!

Does he even have a HVAC contractor license? Low bid is why he works for a building contractor...

I'm self employeed here and only work alone. I figure I'll continue at least five more years till I am elegible for social security if there's any left for me... Then after that, assuming my health...

It looks like there's a second one coming off of something there, but the pic isn't too clear here I can't tell...

Two things here, you're not looking for a voltage drop per se, you're looking for a high resistance ground most likely. Your voltage measured through the disconnect when the switch is open COULD be...

I don't get too cought up in brand... Usually my supplier has robinaire or JB in stock and I will get either... If totaline was all they stocked, I would use that too... As long as it's made for...

Again, your the money man, he works for you (although maybe indirectly)... Don't be afraid to insist on what's right...

Maybe so, but high vacuum hoses have been an industry standard for HVAC applications at least since I started in this trade in 1972. They work and work well. YOu only need to hold a 200 micron...

Make it get ugly, but get what you deserve, a well designed and installed job....

Sizing may not be a criteria in your area, but you still control the purse strings and you ARE a professional. You KNOW industry standards and manufacturer's data. It IS your house... I would play...

I think the contractor(s) are being the jerks... I would let them know that I will withold money until it's done right. Further, if there's a motgage on it, I would inform the bank and also the...

Are you a service tech, or a DIY / homeowner?? Sounds like you need to call a professional...

Next time you're in the supply house, ask them to show you some...

I use high vacuum hoses...

Should be in the company's policy handbook....

Yeah well, that goes without saying...

It also helps to buy your supervosor lunch everyday....

The problem I always found with the B option is that you will most likely start doing resi duct install... If you do a good job they won't want you moving out of that position because you make them...

What is top pay for job A?

Read the OP's first several posts carefully. It's not a panel problem..

I like it....

Interesting timing this thread is. I have evacuated many systems in the past that had water in them.,.. The oil always gets cloudy as the moisture is evacuated. Nothing new here...

But, a few...

So, did you get a chance to check it out? And if so, what did you find??

I would have grabbed that grille in the background....

I used to use them in the field a long long time ago. They do help you understand what's happening in the system while you're learning the trade. I found them especially useful on compound...

This is of course true however, if there are no other problems and you are just killing time for curiosity, yet don't want to run to the truck for the megger, it can be entertaining...

As a side note, at first glance it would seem that checking voltage acrossed an open disconnect (L1 to Load 1) is a useless function. But, now that I look at all the possibilities, it might not be...

While I agree, it indeed has to be caused by something in the unit drawing current through ground, this drawing isn't it. The reason is there has to be a contactor in there somewhere that will...

Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe 502 is an azeotrope of 12 & 22?

Look, get a H-10 leak detector, it will work with just about all refrigerants and better than any other....

It's certainly ok to use r-22 for leak detection... But I have to ask, what kind of leak detector do you have that will detect 22 but not 502? Also, are you planning to recharge with 502? If so I...

I see what you did there... Now that's funny.

Ooo, here we are, brains AND spunk... What more could anyone want??

Gotta respect that...

I tend to agree with you here... But ya gotta do what ya gotta do...

Good luck with whatever decision you make... COuldn't really blame you for either choice....

There shouldn't be any water collecting on the top....

Gee, I hope he/she didn't try the bobby pin in the outlet trick...

Is that for R-717?

Were you the kid who stuck a bobby pin in the wall outlet thinking you could "start the house" like mom & dad started the car?

I did when I was 3. Little did I know then, instead of starting...

The H-10 works very for me. I have three other types, the newest is a yellow jacket but the H-10 works better than the others...

I only use calgon leak detector soap bubbles... They work best for...

I have the same thing but generally only use it on ice mcahines. Quite frankly, they only get used about twice a year though.

As for critical charge systems, the variation in charge really...

I haven't had much luck with refrigerant dyes. Of course I only used dye a few times 20 years ago. Maybe they're better now, but I have the best luck with an H-10 and soap bubbles...

Yeah, that'll work good...

So, that's not how it's supposeed to be done?

Sounds like a toss-up then... Good luck with whatever choice you make...

If it were me, knowing what I know now, I would go for the union position. But that's also assuming you can get past that 6 month window without wages.