Type: Posts; User: energy_rater_La
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seal the house, seal the ducts & returns.
best of luck!
glad the article set your mind to rest.
with the foam sheating on the exterior of walls,
you can use any insulation.
roxul is expensive, I'd compare it to unfaced fg batts,
if it is the R15...
X2 on that!
thanks for the update & glad you are satisfied.
ok guys... reign it in.
I'm proud of you too that you didn't punch him. good for you.
don't leave fan set to on. in hot humid climates it will
evaporate the moisture off the coil...
just wanted to say, jtrammell, your posts were/are
very good. you clarify things nicely.
La. is a similar climate to Fla.
what works for us is a single stage mid range
unit & variable speed air handler.
you can buy two stage condensing units but
I'd look for something above the minimum efficiency.
13 SEER is the least efficient equipment you can buy.
also, not being familiar with package units...has anyone
quoted you prices on a heat...
so the duct is in a fur down from ceiling to floor..
then turns to enter under floor?
is the turn accessible from the basement?
paneling comes off pretty easily. just use a small
pry bar to...
give it some time for it (and you) to adjust.
whatever gadget you hook up will do little on a leaky duct & return system.
mastic seal ducts, returns, supply boxes at grills.
then add 4 or 5" media filter.
none of it will help with windows...
foil bubble foil is a joke.
I'm not the only one who knows this.
Love St. Martinville. beautiful little town, with the Evangeline Oak
& tiny park on Bayou Teche. I usually pick up a plate lunch &
eat at the gazebo there.
if you have time go to New Iberia &...
makes sense..in a whacked sort of way that is
I wondered what defines the normal of normal posts.
I don't consider myself normal. maybe abnormal, but
here either. but sheet metal guys don't like duct board.
both are good products when installed correctly &
best of luck.
what is your location?
and how much room (what size are roof rafters)?
ideally you'd want the foam against the roofline & the ducts
below the foam.
spray foam insulation is not an approved...
I've always wondered.
and what are "normal" threads as opposed to "sticky"?
just random sunday thoughts.
y'all have a good week.
so sorry for your loss.
losing our Mom's is an end of an era.
focus now on forgetting the last painful months
& remembering all the good times.
enjoy your vacation & live a good life.
I love that reply for so many reasons vstech!
what is your location OP & have you looked at
best of luck.
you should also check to make sure that the returns
are sealed air tight.
not just the plenum sealed to the 2x framing
but the framing sealed to attic floor.
open the return from inside the...
totally off topic OP, but
are you perpetual student who used to post here?
I agree. keep the 10 kw.
best of luck.
works well for us here in south La.
I've yet to add a duct & return into the attic.
doesn't seem to be necessary.
somewhere I have a study about that...hmmm has
cool hand luke in the title....
I agree about avoiding box store hvac companies.
prices are higher as box store adds to cost.
lots of threads about issues with these box
best of luck.
you should invest in load calcs.
too many contractors here in La.
use rule of thumb sizing...500 sq ft per ton.
not a good idea if you want
to remove humidity in your new home.
builder moved the unit? odd that hvac company wasn't called.
if one system (of two or many systems) goes out...
doesn't one call for repair?
makes paying for that extra system 98% of the time
for the 2% of the time it is out redundant.
IMO, it is an educational process.
I've found that I can't bring change about otherwise.
first the homeowner/hvac company has to realize the
problem from oversizing a/c & having little...
true. 30% savings is what I achieved by putting
my ductwork inside the living space.
also, average duct system had 30% duct leakage.
so a 3 ton system delivers 2 tons to the
see that the pathway for the air to enter the soffit is clear.
you should be able to see daylight in the rafter/joist bays
where the soffit opening is located.
baffles are often installed to...
instead of throwing more a/c at the problems of the house
identify & solve the problems of the house.
in my experience, no one wants to touch a job after someone
has already installed...
can you post some pics?
I'm having a hard time picturing the set up.
more food for thought...
the average house has 30% duct leakage.
if you seal your ducts (& returns) you may
eliminate the need for more tons of a/c.
don't know your climate, but here is a link where you can
download an excellent article from buildingscience.com
based on hot humid climates & different dehumidification
my thoughts in order of your posting...
"I do need to seal the house better and add some more attic insulation which I can undertake myself. Then I’ll have a blower door test...
every diyer believes they have great workmanship.
every pro on this site could share many experiences
of calls to make these diy installs work.
I usually tape a piece of visqueen to the concrete floor.
the next day if there is no vapor barrier
the backside of the visqueen has condensated.
I've run into this several times. best solution...
so the the line set and coil have been open to atmosphere since around
Halloween of 2014?
this room surrounded on all sides by hot attic air is the problem.
thermal transfer through the walls,...
how about fixing the bonus room & buying less hvac?
is this something you would be interested in?
"I was going to get an energy audit before getting the new pump anyways, so I suppose the auditor can give me a proper estimation."
don't count on auditor performing a load calc for you....
another possible cause:
most garage slabs don't have vapor barriers.
moisture wicks up through the slab, condensates
on floor covering.
best of luck.
I'd look at higher efficiency that the minimum 14 SEER.
invest in a variable speed air handler, and mid range (16-17)
SEER heat pump.
investing in a load calc, air sealing the house
100% agree with this.
OP you should consider a dehumidifier
tie it into the return & use it if you need to add fresh air.
I'm in Louisiana & have a heat pump.
recommend them to all my all electric clients.
my winter utility bill is less than half the cost
of friends in same sized house.
my summer time savings are...
IMO, it is the assumptions that throw the calcs off.
knowing how much house & duct leakage a house has
is necessary info, not just an assumed amount.
but those are just two of the things that...
6 tons for 2400 sq ft...wow!
the two inch undercut of the doors should suffice,
unless there are multiple supply ducts per room.
a one inch undercut returns for one supply.
(rule of thumb...but...
very timely for me, that this old thread surfaced.
SO's brother was talking about installing the cold plasma
purifier @ their mother's house.
thanks for the link!