No not normal at all!! If you just had it installed have them come back to fix it.
Type: Posts; User: nickellhead
No not normal at all!! If you just had it installed have them come back to fix it.
Sounds like squirrel cage rubbing on housing on start up
I let it run for awhile and I ended up putting a total of 14oz in. The cabinet got down to 38 degrees before I left. Comp would cycle on and starting pressures were 21/165 and it would run for a...
Also line temp 12" from comp is 84 degrees making it 90 degree super heat
Ok. I cut 10" off cap tube. Purged with nitro. Weighted charge back in. My suction psi is 3psi and head is 125psi. My cabinet is 65 degrees and ambient is 85 degrees. System calls for 11oz and I...
Thanks everyone! I will go there this evening and check all of that. Why does cap tube have to be strapped to suction line?
Thanks 2sac! That may be the problem. Because its lasted all week and then it sees to freeze up the day after they've been closed for two days. I'll definitely check that out!! I know my head...
I think their taking the pans out at night. Why does it matter if pans are in there? I will check and clean Condensor tomorrow. Thanks for all your help!! If you think of anything else please let me...
When I weighted it in I let it cool down but suction pressure nor head changed. It stayed at 3-4&160ish. And it took cabinet forever to get down to 38 degrees. I just don't understand how it's...
When I first weighted it in my suction was at 3-4psi. That's why I overcharged. Shouldn't my suction on a refrigerator with 134 be around 25 psi?
11oz. It's a True TSSU 48-12
I overcharged it about 4-6oz to get suction up. I'm wondering if I need to shorten length of cap tube to raise suction pressure. It ran good for a week but now froze up again.
I've been working on older true prep table. The evaporator keeps freezing up. I've replaced the cap tube with same size and length and dryer. Ive brazed in access fittings on high and low it's a...
To adjust the logic board. The left potentiometer (mix) controls the hopper temp. The middle potentiometer controls the barrel viscosity when in auto. And the right potentiometer controls barrel temp...
Ash, I just seen your post. Have you checked your belt tension? Also check the drive coupling in the back. Sometimes the set screws come loose and they'll turn for a little while and then slide back...
I've seen this a lot and it's usually a corroded terminal on compressor not holding wire terminal on anymore.
I use the makita 1/2" hammer drill. They've seemed to last awhile. I also use the makita mini impact. Nice and handy.
The two bolts with springs on the metal bracket that holds your motor is for your belt tension. They should be 1/2" bolts with 1/2" nuts. You tighten those down evenly till you have about 1/2" play...
I'd say the customer meant it was tripping the high limit. It would've been interesting to have seen the condensation line plug up and run down onto strip lol
Thanks! The reason I ask about the cap rating is cause I was on a service call of an airflow unit that was only 3 years old and cap was blown already. It was covered in rust and comp didn't have...
Electric!!
Is there any helpful apps for an I-phone? And also is there any links to help you find the right size capacitor during after hour calls when old one is covered in rust?
Thanks!
If the beater motors continue to run you can change that on the logic board
The beater motors will always run when comp is on. The beads are a seperation of product which is caused from overbeating. Overbeating is usually caused from bad scraper blades or poor sales.
Priming is the process of putting the mix in. Take the tubes out of hopper, pour mix in, lift prime plug until mix spews out, put tubes back in hopper, and than put into auto.
Do you use powder mix? If so its probably water crystals, if not check to make sure your getting all the water out before priming.
It could have constant voltage but a loose connection which than intern wont be supplying constant voltage to the coil which will cause a chattering effect.
Hope that helps!
I agree!!
The orifice is designed ti mix the right amt of air into your ice cream. As far as your comp making loud noises thats nothing to do with your orifice.
This machine doesn't use scraper blades but what will help if you put some new door bearings on it (the big white plastic cups that slide on the door) and if the machine freezes down within about 10...
I've learned in the commercial kitchen equipment if you know what your doing and have the manufacturer supporting you it doesnt matter what joe blow comes in and offers a smaller bill eventually they...
I knew that you had to change the orifice and set the gas valve but i didnt know if you had to change the gas valve
hello I'm interested in buying a NG fireplace from my father in law but I would like to know what all is involved in switching it from Ng to LP
What made you leave comm hvac for ref?
Have you checked the cap and also do you have a voltage drop across your contactor?
R12
I think I have it
22,500/ 18= 1250 tons is that right?
Thats what I was thinking
A good electrocution only happens once
What is your amp draw?
I have been working on taylor for awhile now and I have probably only condemmed about 4 or 5 machines for a leaky barrel but their all at least ten plus years old mainly model 8634's
Those machines aren't designed with a defrost so every time you clean the machine which should be at least every three days you need to shut it off while your cleaning it so it would defrost
All the rest of the restaraunts use Taylor
When you say shell leak problem what specifically are you talking about
Is the evaperator coil iced up?
I would have your tech psi test it to at least 210 psi and than bubble test all the fittings. Dont vacuum and recharge it unless you've found the leak. On a model 430 Taylor was having problems with...
I'm curious.....how does this client know what your cost on refrigerant is anyway?:confused:[/QUOTE]
I was wondering this myself
yes the drive shaft comes out through the barrel sometimes their hard to get out due to lack of lubricant but if its to hard to get out you will have to take the gear box off of the back to push it...
Try replacing the boot seal and make sure you put lube in seal and on shaft but not the head due to later it would get stuck and be a major pain removing and when you remove the drive shaft check the...
is it leaking from the back of the barrel?
These are known for cracked exp valves so I would advise you to contact your local taylor distributer to get it fixed and running good