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given? are they used?

the 3rd pipe is heat recovery

they say if you dont use refnet it can void the warranty, i think its bull

well poodle i deal with a lot of city multi too, they have the 2 pipe ,while daiken uses 3 pipes, i know thats commercial, but daiken may hit number 1 on the mini splits after ive installed a few...

Are the Tranes pretty good?...also do they have made in japan anywhere

also Daiken has moved up on my list, from the jury still out to #2

I put in a Pioneer today, for a homeowner that ordered it on the net...I have never heard of them, but it runs like a champ, so far

Thx for that answer gt

Unit was put in last Dec and already has stopped up from algae in the trap

Could outside air cause a faster build up of algae in the drain

Also the insulator guaranteed the homeowner a 67.00 electric bill, the ac has its own meter ,and the house is insulated with foam.

how do you set the weight, just installed the controls on a bryant 3 zone, i havent read the book on the bypass damper itself, if your familiar with it maybe you can explain,many thanks if you can.

the sight glass will get you close, but by no means can you use them to properly charge a system

they pop right off with a screwdriver, not worth a dime

if 18/4 can survive 600 volts, why do they ask for 14awg?

or at the least unwire yellow

un wire the t-stat and condenser then try it

ruud or rheem

for how much? i know in Mississippi you will be working for chump change, 8 years might get you 12 bucks a hour here

possible you burnt the transformer up

Are you designing the system?

daiken is in with mcqauy also

yeah wetting a towel and taking schrader valves out and also using heat paste doesn't hurt...a extra 5 minutes to do it right

where was the leak?

find it pump it down fix it then charge that puppy up is what i say

also whats the temp you are getting out of your registers

I am not doubting you, I am 51 and just started messing with chillers, i may need your help someday,and those pressures you stated are not grossly abnormal, I can work on resi or commercial but cant...

as a shade tree hvac technician would say beer can cold man , beer can cold...anyone remember that? not its all down to weight, sub-cooling superheat,ect

most of us have been dealing with 410 the last 8 years

well if your dangerous get someone whos not lol

ok well like i said look for the other terminal block, and re-read the installation manual...also are you a experienced hvac installer?

was just wondering why you didn't go full communicating system

abcd then another block with red common white yellow and orange

there should be 2 terminal blocks on the fan coil

you need to read the manual that came with it, for communicating and non communicating condenser

did you use the abcd plug?

how did you wind up with that?

make sure your looking at the actual t-stat and not a sensor, and look for the zone controller, which should be near the air handling unit

If im not mistaken the Infinity would ahave a t-stat going to the zone controller, which would go to a sensor in each zone, each zone would have its own damper which goes back to the zone controller

Just roughed in a 3 zone Bryant/Carrier Legacy system

your t-stat should go to the zone controller

did you check the zone controller....there should be a sensor/t-stat in each zone that all goes back to the zone controller

but i think you said you pumped it down the 1st time to change the evaporater, but it would not pump down a 2nd time?

no one knows everything, no shame in calling anyone, something puzzling to you may be something someone as run into, a stupid question is the one that's. not asked

remove gatorade bottle and put the heil sign in the front, looks great

vrvIII here

Im a Mitsi guy but ill install anything they throw at me413941

check that piston, thats a biggie there

going by your pressures the compressor is pumping, and with you pumping it down without any problems, the compressor is probably ok

i think the majority of us thinks piston