Search:

need real worldy experience...the tech schools spit out idiots most of the time

performance series with new carrier furnace..enough efficiency to save a couple bucks but not so costly to take long time for pay back

too many variables..call a tech

i heat pump works just as good...commom misconception is it blows cold air...it is 100 deg plus air but feels cold t our skin since its 98 deg
heat pump great untill about 35 deg or so then gas back...

heat pump with steam as back up

i prefer buderus with outdoor reset

ur a good PR guy lol

anyway im not trashing the brand..if that was the case id speak off amana as well..
but my experiences with amana despite the same factory lines as goodman are...

the pay back is a matter of time depending on efficiency

the matching problem is also a matter of surface area of the coils to meet efficency levels

i could never get it to work on refrig lines..it usually crushed/kinked..what is the trick for the linesets????

and a craftsman wrench bc hes made in americaaa

PLEASE; no knocking of equipment brands; I see no valid reason to avoid installing a Goodman, in fact It might be my choice...?[/QUOTE]

actuallyi very much dislike goodman..sorry to offend you but...

my bare hands and a cup of coffee....they call me mcgyver lol

my tool bag with assorted hand tools
my mikita 10v drills id be lost with out
milwaukee pipe cutter amazing for boiler jobs
torch...

at ten yrs old with r22 in it.....no questoin about it..change to a new system with r410

and do NOT go with goodman

goodman notorious for leaky valves.. the o rings dont work very well..i usually use leak lock as well...tell the customer to get rid of goodman brand next time haha

i stopped using my digital gages for 22 and 410 bc it screwed up my micron gage...maybe ill send them into get calibrated this winter but ive been using a different micrometer...this is why i say it...

i use a quarter turn valve setup and send it right back in to minimize the loss of rerfig

i hook up my gages almost every time. my preference i guess. otherwise cant get correct sh or sc readings

install something else..goodman is :censored:

how do you purge them without wasting refrigerant or letting it out of the units

to assist in oil return its about the cfc or hfcs carring it back...i was unaware about the oil addition..it was my understanding the two oils react poorly in system and do damage, which is the...

^ this is not true.[/QUOTE]

do explain please..thats different from everything ive been told

i knew it was 29.something lol use micron gage and let it hold then come back to see if still same
also if you dnt know already..you need two sets of gages bc the different oils do not mix btween...

could the compressor be weak or have a bad valve?? low amps is a sign of that and seems to me it is a possibility.
im relatively new to refrigeratoin as well..What u guys think??

im liking it

new carrier heat pump with new furnace...do the instal once not twice

yes yes yes ..no nitrogen gives clogged **** making call backs..had a clogged dryer where i pulled the txv first and still had problem in dryer not txv..costly mistake

plus efficiency on new system and 410 cheaper to repair than 22 :cheers:

clean thoroughly and glue to the inside so doesnt look horrible...make sure dry before putting back on so the blower doesnt pull it right back off. ductboard washers and screws if al else fails haha....

. "Wow! That sounds really good, I guess I'm going to have to get some of those... wow... I really like that idea..." He's been doing this for 10 years.[/QUOTE]

unbelievable...some people just...

glue duct board to it if really worried about it

exactly what i meant

i despise goodman.. anyway goodman condensors and myself have a history of bypass valves being bad...is it possible the bypass is on its way out?

easier than i thought..what about with the lower model pro4000 and so on..any ideas?

it will work yes ..will it work at max capacity not likely

the piston is the only variable that changed, provided it was the same coil. take a quick peek at the duct and make sure nothing is partially disconnected

not enough info but to speculate..uninsulated duct can cause lots of condensation. a partially clogged drain can cause back up and overflow into secondary pan

take the fan off constant and put on "auto" the "on" position will not allow dehumidification

hell, i wouldnt take all those ladders of if i didnt have to either..love it

how exactly do you recalibrate the thermostat?
i never tried it but am very curious on how to do it!

i have fieldpiece and they have excellent customer service!

got an idea...... can you reacalibrate the thermostate so its off a few degrees?
then they can think its at the temp they want..might be enough of a pyschological play to satisfy them haha

i agree with find the variable that has changed.it may help. if it used to work then what changed to prevent it other than old and unsealed

where do i get one haha

coppertone sport 45 spf..spray or lotion. spray is convenient but smells like hair spray haha

we all been there haha

what about converting a different size rolls of pex with appropriate conectors. look up the specs online to see which connector you should use in regards to pressure. set up some copper with a union...

i like the piston theory..call goodman for tech details about the piston before opening the lines again. they may actually be able to tell you if its not sized correctly at least

check the compresser by ohming out the three legs at the compressor..i forget the actual equation however .....two of the readings should equal the third reading...
random numbers for example.. ...

ductwork need to be insulated very well or will continue to sweat and drip all over..condensation means its working

first off get rid of the goodman condensor! but if u dont get rid of it just buy a 5 ton goodman txv..not that expensive...you can use the 6 ton txv if you know how to adjust it with the superheat...