Type: Posts; User: cem-bsee
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I thought you all might be interested --
-- lots of hype regarding making everything 30% more efficient
from Mar09 issue of Building Design+Construction:
Study shows 30% above ASHRAE energy...
open furn blower door
turn off furn
use heat off electronics--
probably, the heat off electronics will be controlling factor!!
better get HVAC pro to help!!!
how many BTU/H from...
how about a 'whole house fan' ?
just don't use if outdoor RH% is high --
& screens over open windows --
blower fan to 'on', a/c & heat= 'off'
insulate the cawl walls [not bottom 4"]
provide drain from crawl
consider a concrete pad for furn & space in front, sidewalk to door.
NEC300-22(b) is applicable = ... devices shall be permitted within such ducts ... only if necessarf for therir direct action upon, or sensing of, the contained air. ...
first, be sure the ductwork is sealed! -- mastic is the easiest.
second, insulate the ductwork
-- because this is not a 'conditioned' space.
-- -- unless you will be having it conditioned with a...
why look-up or calculate when I can just read my instrument?
I suspect that I did my first look-up in 1961 --
again, what is your 'take' on RH% needed ID for good health, even at 57F?
read about vapor barriers at BUILDINGSCIENCE.com
so, I did not carefully note my dry bulb, I focused on the wet bulb & RH%.
nevertheless, every thing I have heard or read from the health...
trust YOUR senses --
look for holes,
feel for air flow! [ other than the wasteful return path]
Lots of windows?
DD for the billing period?
do YOU have abt $10million liability insurance?
if not, scrap it.
last week I found out why my DegreeDay calculation did not match that of the Huntsville Utility quantity stated on my billing=
Hsv Util does NOT match up the actual DD with the billing period. ...
look at your numbers, then 'play'
as stated, R19 is even poor for walls!
spend $$ on the 'envelope' --
more attic insulation
shade over windows
at 6am, dry bulb= 23F, wet= 21F = ~95%RH
sealing attics & crawlspaces prevents sucking in moist air;
probably best to forget vapor barrier --
this hi RH will typically be until 10am --
are you physically comfortable with now system?
have you tracked your therms?
-- sans May's [cooking, etc]
spend $$ improving the 'envelope', then think new.
-- could well be smaller 4 euip!...
it should be sized just like a car for a small person --:D
the other important part of the protection is to be sure the grounding system is good --
rod outside of the 'drip line' of the roof so it can be in damp soil,
the wire to it is well clamped.
cheapest is to go to BestBuy & get some power strips with the highest joule rating ~ $30.
I have used Panamax surge protectors for 20y.
I had one vaporized, yet it protected a computer & copier...
doesn't the closed cell foam act as a vapor barrier?
at the 4ft+ level, try 'hardware cloth' with 0.125inch openings --
for the gutters: try the 5ft plastic covers with longitidutional ribs --
made in Canada
was sold by HomeDepot, ~ $1/ft
did you ever see the pictures of a 1000gal propane tank explosion= the aftermath?
such leveled 1 sq block+ in Pulsaki TN -- 20y/a.
how about the explosive properties of Hydrogen?
in industrial plants, I used mostly elec IR
-- did have a couple of gas fired
heat flows from hot to cold;
the greater the temperature difference, the more transfered.
so, get a 7day programmable thermostat, & play
let it bring up the temp, starting 1- 3 hr before normal...
I have used IR heaters in 'open' spaces such as above a warehouse desk --
unit heaters everywhere else.
in the open' spaces, people sense the heat from IR, but,
almost impossible to measure...
-- circuit breakers have mechanical linkage which can corrode & not actuate to trip a breaker;
-- many breakers are repeately reset, & may not have the protection needed;
-- -- blown fuses...
the $20 unit 500/1000 watt heaters from W-M have no exposed elements
-- have fan & tilt.
why spend 2- 4 times the $$ ?
my bdrm =13x12 -- one kept temp at 57-59 even when 14F for few hours.