Type: Posts; User: cem-bsee
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I thought you all might be interested --
-- lots of hype regarding making everything 30% more efficient
from Mar09 issue of Building Design+Construction:
Study shows 30% above ASHRAE energy...
open furn blower door
turn off furn
use heat off electronics--
probably, the heat off electronics will be controlling factor!!
better get HVAC pro to help!!!
how many BTU/H from...
how about a 'whole house fan' ?
just don't use if outdoor RH% is high --
& screens over open windows --
blower fan to 'on', a/c & heat= 'off'
insulate the cawl walls [not bottom 4"]
provide drain from crawl
consider a concrete pad for furn & space in front, sidewalk to door.
NEC300-22(b) is applicable = ... devices shall be permitted within such ducts ... only if necessarf for therir direct action upon, or sensing of, the contained air. ...
first, be sure the ductwork is sealed! -- mastic is the easiest.
second, insulate the ductwork
-- because this is not a 'conditioned' space.
-- -- unless you will be having it conditioned with a...
why look-up or calculate when I can just read my instrument?
I suspect that I did my first look-up in 1961 --
again, what is your 'take' on RH% needed ID for good health, even at 57F?
read about vapor barriers at BUILDINGSCIENCE.com
so, I did not carefully note my dry bulb, I focused on the wet bulb & RH%.
nevertheless, every thing I have heard or read from the health...
trust YOUR senses --
look for holes,
feel for air flow! [ other than the wasteful return path]
Lots of windows?
DD for the billing period?
do YOU have abt $10million liability insurance?
if not, scrap it.
last week I found out why my DegreeDay calculation did not match that of the Huntsville Utility quantity stated on my billing=
Hsv Util does NOT match up the actual DD with the billing period. ...
look at your numbers, then 'play'
as stated, R19 is even poor for walls!
spend $$ on the 'envelope' --
more attic insulation
shade over windows
at 6am, dry bulb= 23F, wet= 21F = ~95%RH
sealing attics & crawlspaces prevents sucking in moist air;
probably best to forget vapor barrier --
this hi RH will typically be until 10am --
are you physically comfortable with now system?
have you tracked your therms?
-- sans May's [cooking, etc]
spend $$ improving the 'envelope', then think new.
-- could well be smaller 4 euip!...
it should be sized just like a car for a small person --:D
the other important part of the protection is to be sure the grounding system is good --
rod outside of the 'drip line' of the roof so it can be in damp soil,
the wire to it is well clamped.
cheapest is to go to BestBuy & get some power strips with the highest joule rating ~ $30.
I have used Panamax surge protectors for 20y.
I had one vaporized, yet it protected a computer & copier...
doesn't the closed cell foam act as a vapor barrier?
at the 4ft+ level, try 'hardware cloth' with 0.125inch openings --
for the gutters: try the 5ft plastic covers with longitidutional ribs --
made in Canada
was sold by HomeDepot, ~ $1/ft
did you ever see the pictures of a 1000gal propane tank explosion= the aftermath?
such leveled 1 sq block+ in Pulsaki TN -- 20y/a.
how about the explosive properties of Hydrogen?
in industrial plants, I used mostly elec IR
-- did have a couple of gas fired
heat flows from hot to cold;
the greater the temperature difference, the more transfered.
so, get a 7day programmable thermostat, & play
let it bring up the temp, starting 1- 3 hr before normal...
I have used IR heaters in 'open' spaces such as above a warehouse desk --
unit heaters everywhere else.
in the open' spaces, people sense the heat from IR, but,
almost impossible to measure...
-- circuit breakers have mechanical linkage which can corrode & not actuate to trip a breaker;
-- many breakers are repeately reset, & may not have the protection needed;
-- -- blown fuses...
the $20 unit 500/1000 watt heaters from W-M have no exposed elements
-- have fan & tilt.
why spend 2- 4 times the $$ ?
my bdrm =13x12 -- one kept temp at 57-59 even when 14F for few hours.
spend the $ first to 'tighten' the envelope, then get the 'blower door' test --
-- your leaks are so bad, that anyone should be able to see them without a fancy, expensive test!!!
holes are not...
how big is the window?
how much insulation in the attic?
why does anyone think that IR is safer than the $20 resistance heaters?
[I have 5. & use some.]
I guess one can hang an IR heater on...
read lots herein!
renter paying for heat?
lots of attic insulation?
run load calculation from here --
get measurements first
if it is bowed, it should be replaced with a filter that is not so restrictive --
4" thick & pleated is better.
how about the second filter?
[ you did toss the first! ]
[ why not? -- if it...
what is the Relative Humidity INSIDE your house?
my vents push mainly side- to- side across the wall, not pointed to the wall.
do you have deflectors directing the air flow just onto the wall?
play with the numbers --
probably get better transfer using pex fastened to aluminum plate.
my question is what is the 'high' voltage out of the mulitphase generator which goes to the invertor?
not the output of the whole unit.
cheaper to insulate the walls!
either inside or outside --
best if outside, at least 4ft below earth level --
consider Styrofoam --
what is your freeze depth [how deep for water lines not to...
external shading: think awnings --
-- my grandfather's house in McGuire Park WV [central] had awnings in early 1940s.
-- our house by St Louis MO airport had canvas awnings in the mid1940s.
try the HVAC Pro --
it would be helpful to have volume of room,
any info about the fans & ducts for ea fan --
maybe the bldg supt has such on drawings --
NOT in winter,
the last I heard, an alternator produces alternating current, as in my cars made after about 1975.
before that, my cars had generators, giving direct current.
I have replaced a bad diode...
the values of the old manual have not changed.
it just may not have tripple pane, lo-e, vinyl frame,
nor foam insul.
get U values from mfgr of items.
check the past 15 months of DD vs fuel usage --
subtract out May's usage.
insulated between gar & living?
check with pipe mfgr --
or, one might get by with Sch80 thickness,
like always, one can 'optimize' the test results --
the reported Uvalud should be for the overall glass area, not just at the center, nor any one spot.
the best window against heat transfer seems...
you probably live in a hi humidity area there in Mississippi --
so, SEAL the attic & crawl
my patio door had 6 & 8 inch side gaps without insulation between door frame & rough framing!
where & why does one get a generator with an inverter?
why not use set-back?
heat flows from hot to cold; the larger the temp difference, the larger the quantity! = Thermodynamics 101
so, you have R75 in attic, R30 in crawl?
& storm windows & doors?
& all seams sealed?
& all elec & HVAC boxes sealed to wall or floor?
& trees to divert wind?
you chose to waste electricity every time strip heaters come on?
[because you went up in temp rating of the wire feeding them?]
for continuous loads, use 60C & same $$$.
BTW, I have...
what is an 'inverter generator' ??
this seems to be an oxymoron --
a generator is a device driven by an engine [usually] to make electricity;
an inverter changes direct-current to...
yeh, but coal is so cheap!
only hydro is cheaper --
TVA uses lots of coal
& hydro, but had a problem last summer because of drought -- [ think conserve water!!]
why would you not want gas for...
for a once per life time event?
I just bought a $70 propane heater from Lowes --
a 20# propane tank is $50, refill about $20.
'good for 400sf'
[such a batch of wimps! ]
what did your...
know that they can be replaced with GFCI units
and SHOULD be for 2 circuits in the kitchen,
& one in bath & laundry areas [ any 'wet area ]
such does NOT require rewiring = replacing the wire...
quick fix for alum windows= add storm windows, separated by wood from the original window.
adds more 'insulation'
protects original window,
adds another layer against break-ins.
I insulated my...