Type: Posts; User: Chris87654
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11-13-2010, 04:08 PM
Thanks for the lesson Hearthman - lots of standards to learn...
The only reason I (and most others) probably don't want to rip out the old prefab fireplace is the "ornate" brickwork of the...
11-13-2010, 03:48 PM
Other questions were
Can the damper and "axle" easily be removed from the factory chimney of a Mark123 to install a liner? (so it could be reinstalled)
Is there advantage to using smooth wall...
11-13-2010, 01:25 PM
I understand better why inserts are used in factory builts, while none are approved/listed (too many to deal with, no standard method of testing, etc). Hearthman's link was a an...
11-12-2010, 09:35 AM
Thanks for responses.
I know Heatilator front or chimney vents can't be blocked since this is how these units are cooled, but good to note if modifying.
The Vogalzang is cheap junk (can use in...
11-06-2010, 02:30 AM
What model Heatilator do you have? My label for a 3036 is inside on the right panel just above the opening. My unit doesn't circulate hot air back into the room - the openings pull air from the...
11-05-2010, 11:08 PM
My Heatilator is useless for heating so I want to install an insert and use existing chimney. I have a small wood stove (Vogelzang BX26E - firebox is ~ 12"Wx24"Lx14"H) and want to know if I can run...
Thanks for the research.
I attached a photo of the label on the door assembly. It would seem these doors are okay (by UL standards in those days). Also good to see the paper label is...
HTH - also thanks for note on the grate. I'll be careful for now (not to overload it, and to ensure it doesn't slide forward) and see about getting a proper HL grate. The doors don't get super hot...
Thanks for reply - your post to someone else described the chimney vents below the damper and helped me understand the air intakes on this are to cool the firebox and NOT for convection...
So by pulling the sheetrock and insulating all ductwork, the system will be more efficient and I'll stop chance of condensation - good to know. Thanks.
The plate inside box says "MARK 123" with stamped "3036" just after it. I didn't see a manual or parts for this on Heatilator's site - this was installed when house was built in 1982.
I had cold air coming from vents farthest from furnace in an 1800sf house with 20KW electric heat in St. Louis MO. I wrapped exposed ductwork with R-13 (much is covered with sheetrock in partially...
I have a Heatilator 3036 that uses convection to distribute heat. The unit is old but in good condition (all panels tight, no rust/erosion of metal) and I'd like to add a blower to put out more...
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