Re: other side of the coin
Yeah, vent rise is the issue here. I've got an 11' run to get to the vertical flue on the side of the hosue. Plus, the basement (only 6' ceiling) has flooded at least once to a significant depth (6-8") some time before I bought the house, so I'd like to be able to put the new water heater up on a concrete pedestal of some kind. In the last year and a half it's flooded about 1/2 inch, until I shimmed up the sump pump float so it would trigger *before* water gets over the side of the pit. The basement hasn't flooded since, but I don't trust it.
Originally posted by hearthman
I prefer the shorty's because they offer more vent rise to the chimney and therefore tell to spill less from the draft hood.
Any modern 40 gal/ 40,000 BTU water heater will do fine for a family of 4. Yes, a tall boy will be more efficient. Look at the chart. Its usually only 1% gain. I'd rather have the better vent rise. Its gotta flow uphill to the chimney breeching.
The water heater vent is being tied in to the new gas forced-air heating system vent, with a completely new type B flue. The old vent system was a KNOWN hazard, way too long horizontal run, reverse slope, improperly sized, single-wall and too close to combustibles... you get the idea.
The main thing is to find out why the flame rollout. First, have the chimney inspected by a sweep. It could be blocked or simply oversized.
If you're referring to the gas valve on the line on the side of the water heater, that was replaced because the old one was brass. The heating company said the brass ones fail prematurely and they routinely replace them whenever they do any work that involves the water heater.
Have a tech check the gas control. If you have low inlet gas pressure, it could cause a delayed ignition. If this is the case, it could do it on a new heater as well.
That's interesting. I didn't actually count the number of seconds to full ignition. It could have been anything between 3 and 5, really.
ANSI stds allow for 4 seconds of delay btw the call for heat and full ignition of the burner.
I have a plug-in CO sensor in the kitchen (almost directly above the water heater, actually), but it's about 8 years old and I have no idea how to test if it still works. Perhaps a new one would be in order. Should I put it in the basement/crawl space near the furnace and water heater, or in the house where people are?
Install a high quality CO alarm such as CO Experts or NCI. Very expensive and very worth it.
Thanks for your input, guys.