Economiser, suction elbow etc, just pay a proper insulation tradesperson to carryout work, vapour seal no air, no corrosion.
Rover that is very true, but on the same token I've ran into variable different problems with having a machine re-insulated by a profes. Etc etc .... I've went so far as to when wire wheeling flanges as rolling over the outside edge a little to give me at least 1/4" of clean surface on the outside edge of flanges on the evap to suct elbow and the econo to evap joints. Also on the flange surface if rusted badly the wire wheel may not remove all the rust and I'll have to ping it off with a small hammer & chisel then complete the wire wheeling. Scotch brite pad and degreaser til clean. Reassm, proper torque & sequence. Prior to recharging chiller I apply a nice coat of never seize to the outside surface areas to those to joints before re-insulating. Now with that said, it has personally helped me with trouble machines I've repaired over the last seventeen years. Just a few more minutes and I haven't heard of any other mech raising cane about getting any silver grade anti seize on them. Just trying to prevent moisture from getting to the joints them self in which has main problem for me.
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never had a flange leak when using small amount of 515 and tension on flanges, only pushes out if you go stupid with the tools,
In regard to the flange sequence, it is very important as it will pull the front of the compressor down or to side incorrectly if done wrong. I have seen all the interstage seals badly damaged because a technician pulled elbow down wrong.
machined flanges...yes, after they welded to elbow...nope. have seen some with wrap or 'pull' from heat of welding that you can see with your eye.
I had alot of machines even with good insulation that have corroded on the flange surface, we remove the elbow and have the face of the flange skimmed about 5 thou to clean surface and ensure square, some though you need to cut the flange off and re-weld it because there is not enough movement and will pull compressor too much.
Also with the goretex, most machines I have seen still have it in place, even new 'o' ringless machines.
These suction elbows are some of the most frustrating parts on these machines
I will dig up my overhaul manuals and scan the pages. PM your email and happy to send over. cheers
I had an same older machine with four bolt flanges that were in bad shape. I had the gaskets made out of a garlock type of material and used them instead of the rubber gaskets.
Check to make sure the gasket material is compatible with the refrigerant the machine uses.
new trane machines have the thinner flanges and gaskets replaced by a thick, approx 1.5 inches, flange and a gasket simmilar to what you find on a recip head or valve plate, this is always an option to upgrade but that means a bit of welding and fitting of the new flanges.
okay guys, its been a long time since I've been on this forum and I figured I would share the solution to the leaking gaskets and o-rings on the Trane chillers with you. You need to totally submerse the entire chiller in river water for 4-5 days and this will seal your leaks. this happened to us during super storm sandy and we haven't had leaks since. We went from leaks every 6 months, to not one in almost 2 years.
We need pics