Hot Upstairs

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Originally posted by jramunni
Is the main duct and bransh duct exposed (accesible)?

Our typical damper install is an insertable damper in each (accessible) branch run (5",6",7" round).
If the branch runs are not exposed but the main trunk is, or can be, we have dampers that are inserted up through an opening cut in the main duct below each take-off and lock them selves in place just past the take off in the round duct. Our third damper option is in the register boot with the air tube run throught the branch duct and accessed in the main trunk. The concern with the 3rd option is air noise (whistling)when the damper is closed being that you are now dampering in the room with a louvered damper.
For many homeowners "Comfort at Last" is more important than a little noise from time to time.

jr

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After the main duct leaves the utility room, it and all its branches are enclosed by floor above and ceiling below. To access each branch would require a hole through the ceiling. Each branch is rectangular, 3 1/2 inch by 8, 10, or 12 inches.

Al

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Originally posted by alinnova

After the main duct leaves the utility room, it and all its branches are enclosed by floor above and ceiling below. To access each branch would require a hole through the ceiling. Each branch is rectangular, 3 1/2 inch by 8, 10, or 12 inches.

Al [/B]

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Al,
Your only two options would be;
1 - Expose the main trunk and install a 3-1/2" x _____" in
each take-off from inside the duct. Patch the opening in
the duct and then replace drywall or install a removable
ceiling below the trunk
2 - Install dampers (RegiDampers)in the register boots
(behind the registers) and run the tubing from the boot
back into the trunk and then pull it back from an
opening in the mechanical room.
3 - I lied...your third option would be to cut a hole below
each run and use the "Ezyslide" insertable damper. You
could then install a flush mount access panel to
conceal the damper but not permanantly.

I hope that helps!

jr

Thanks for clarifying things. This looks like about the same amount of tear up and repair labor required as with a Carrier or Trane system retrofit.

Al

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Originally posted by alinnova
Thanks for clarifying things. This looks like about the same amount of tear up and repair labor required as with a Carrier or Trane system retrofit.

Al

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I believe that to install the Carrier or Trane dampers you will need to expose the branch ducts in order to install the damper assembly with an externaly mounted, motorized actuator.

That would involve much more in the way of tear up and repair compared to just exposing the main trunk as in option #1.

Unless they have a 3-1/2 x ? damper with an internaly mounted actuator that can be inserted inside the duct. I don't believe they do!

jr

jmm706,

Here are some more possible soultions,

1.) Install a wall mounted package A/C such as the ones manufactered by Bard and run the new ducts through the attic. One note: If you decide to go this way, make sure you get a return grille that can have a filter in it. The Bard's standard filter is located inside the unit and I'm sure you dont want to climb a ladder to replace the filter every month!

2.) Install a mini split A/C unit. I dont know if there are mini splits that can be ducted though. Does anyone? Also, I havnt seen many units with heat.

Check out those Bard's at http://www.bardhvac.com

Here is a spec sheet for the 1.5- 5 Ton units with electric heat. They also have 1 ton and 6 ton units avaliable. There are also Heat-pumps and Gas Furnaces (All wall mount, packaged)
http://www.bardhvac.com/digcat/techd..._(2004_02).pdf

[Edited by york_hvac on 05-27-2005 at 05:28 PM]

only 1 return up that sux

While I am a great advocate of zoning systems and mostly agree with many of the same opinions of jramunni, I thought this forum is not for the promotion of ones manufacturing of products. This particular thread is definitely a self serving add for one zoning manufacturer and should be limited to generic solutions and not an advertisement for one manufacturer over another.

I live in a neighborhood of Cape Cod style houses and have yet to see the upstairs comfortable with only one system. Fortunately the previous owner in my home put in two systems and I use programmable thermostats to keep things as efficient as I can. The honest contractors will tell the homeowners that one system wont work and then when they get the price for two systems they are shocked. Along comes the next guy who sells them on the oversized unit for "insurance that the upstairs will be cool". They go with this guy and end up using window units upstairs after their first summer. I have seen it happen to people I know. It is like you guys have stated before, find a reliable guy who has done work in the neighborhood and go with him. Pay a little more and be happpy. Thanks !!!!!!!!

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Originally posted by crt
This particular thread is definitely a self serving add for one zoning manufacturer and should be limited to generic solutions and not an advertisement for one manufacturer over another.

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My appologies if this is true...I never intended to prevent any other zoning manufacturer from jumping in with solutions they have available. I am simply sharing what I know about. I try very hard to be generic when I can, the reality is that no one else has been intersted in serving the "retro-fit" zoning market until very recently. If indeed I am guilty.. Mea Culpa

jr