Quote:
Note the bypass damper on the right dumping unfiltered air into the blower:
why does supply air need to be filtered? it has already been through the filter....
Quote:
Me thinks that the bypass damper isn't even in right. its supposed to be installed horizontally.
it can be mounted wither horizontally or vertically. as long as it is in the right direction :)
Quote:
Also NEVER a good idea to put humidifier on front of furnace.
looks to me like its after the furnace, is this not an upflow installation? cause that media filter at the bottom left sure has me confused :eek:
Quote:
at least if you have to do that put a metal angle underneath to channel any leaking water to the side of the furnace rather than drip inside
it's above the A coil.... just where is the water going to drip again??? inless you're talking about the exterior water supply connections. in that case, maybe. but that would be over kill IMO
i am not a fan of the california economizers. archaeic stuff. the zone panel is about as big as a 3x5 note pad depending on the age of this system. most contractors installed them next to the zone 1 thermostat. at least in my area. someone may not have been able to figure out the zone system and by-passed some things. and or they didn't know what they where doing. i run into that often... :( :mad: people tend to make things more difficult when they start jumping things out and by-passing things. i can see where this guy is a good candidate for a new zone system. EWC would be my fisrt choice in retrofitting this cluster.
by-pass should be sized to handle the air with only the smallest zone working. so find out how many cfm's the smallest zone needs, subtract that from you total. then you know how much by-pass is needed :) depending on the smallest zone you have, a 10-12" round is prolly the right size. 10" dumps about 750 cfm and 12" dumps about 1200 cfm's :)