Im betting it is a crappy bristol ts compressor and they are a huge peice of junk have replaced many .
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Im betting it is a crappy bristol ts compressor and they are a huge peice of junk have replaced many .
Nothing yet, but I'll have an update next Wed. I'm working with the same Carrier rep, and have been able to communicate directly with him. But I decided to go with another HVAC contractor. I decided that the company I was with, even though they originally installed it, didn't have the expertise to help Carrier and I troubleshoot. Carrier apparently agreed, because Carrier is paying to have a new company (that I picked from his list) come out next Wed. and essentially start over with the diagnosis.
He (Carrier) wants to have them check CFM, to make sure its actually what the Infinity controller is calling for (1400), and then do a more thorough compressor check - something that has yet to happen.
Even though this is taking a long time to fix, I take comfort in the fact that Carrier is paying for all the troubleshooting. I assume that is because I had to pay for initial troubleshooting and installation of a TXV, which didn't work. Carrier paid all costs to install that 4" spacer between the furnace and the evaporator. Not sure what will happen when we finally decide its the compressor.
I have a compressor pump down question, but I'll post that as a new thread
Thanks for the update.
The latest on this - a new company (paid for by Carrier) came out a couple of weeks ago, and measured CFM by measuring gas flow at the gas meter outside and return/supply air temps. They were getting about 1700CFM. They spent about 2-3 hours.
After a few days, Carrier decided to have them replace the blower motor. I guess Carrier thinks the CFM is too high. Doesn't seem to be any concern over the compressor.
So, I'm waiting for the new blower motor to be installed.
If they don't hurry, its going to get too cold to troubleshoot this problem any more this season.
Any chance of a large return leak in the attic causing the problem? When the blower switches to high it would pull more hot attic air in. Other than that I agree with others, do the compressor.
Seems like they want to try absolutely every other remote possibility before replacing the compressor. Maybe they think that's too obvious. It's amazing with warranty issues, that rather than spend say $1000 repalcing a compressor, they will spend $200-300 increments 10X for twice the total amount to avoid it. Don;t feel bad, Ingersoll Rand (parent company to Trane) on the industrial side doesn't handle things any better.
More lunacy!
If the indoor airflow were to high, with a correctly operating compressor 2nd stage, the system would have no problem cooling the house down in 2nd stage.
It would actually do a better job of lowering the actual air temperature in the house than with normal airflow, but would have poor humidity control.
Also, I'd love to hear an explanation of how checking the airflow in the HEATING mode, with a method that is subject to a rather broad range of error, translates in any way to what the airflow is in the COOLING mode on a system that uses different airflows for every stage of heating and cooling.
The problem is the COMPRESSOR!
I know, raising a zombie thread, but I'm still wondering if this ever got fixed, so hoping this generates an email notification to the OP. :)
I am curious too.
- there is now a bulletin about replacing bristol compressors and offering a replacement credit for a scroll outdoor unit.
I hate to ask this, but... could someone break it down and explain to me how there getting the btu/hr based off the figures listed at the beginning of this thread. I attempted inputting figures into a psychometric calculate but Im not getting far with it. thank you.
double post
Using only the bold-ed data & running the enthalpy numbers; I compared those enthalpy results to the "Expanded Performance Data" of a 4-Ton Goodman 2-stage unit.
1st stage I got 26,553-Btuh; 2nd stage only 28,476-Btuh; Goodman 2nd stage - Expanded Performance Data, using 85-F OAT it shows 40,700-Btuh or under 3.5-Ton, but way above that 28,476. Always state the Outdoor Air Temp for comparative purposes. Seems as though Carrier's 2nd stage ought to be similar.
On 1st stage the Goodman has a higher CFM airflow, but 2nd stage performance is what we are concerned with here, using 1400-CFM for both.
2nd stage, at 80F-RA & 59F Wet bulb, Goodman shows a 24-F indoor airflow temp drop; Carrier's was way less; in 2nd stage the enthalpy change number is way below what it ought to be.
Trehak01 look up wet bulb temps on chart, subtract for enthalpy change difference - follow multiplying directions at bottom: http://www.udarrell.com/wet_bulb_enthalpy_chart.pdf
So, let me get this straight. I am going to find my supply wet bulb, return wet bulb and my static pressure.. that will give me the the BTU per pound of dry air. subtract the two, to get the difference. Use the difference in equation(total heat=CFMx4.5xEnthalpyChange)
I did so and got 27,657.. not what I was thinking.. I would assume I did something wrong here...