5 ton Payne a/c unit makes noise

Good evening all,

Im trying to find out why my 5 ton a/c condeser makes a major noise when turning on and then its operates smoothly afterwards.It also blows what smells and feels like heat for the first 20 seconds of operation.The sound it makes when coming on is like a loud vibrating type of sound.

I have a 5 ton 13 seer Payne condeser with a goldmans 10 seer electic furnace.The condenser is 1 month old and the furnace is about 9 years old.

If anyone have any idea why the unit is making this noise feel free to express.

Thank's

mismatch, fire your home warranty company. (payne gave it away)

Typically, noise on start followed by smooth operation is indicative of an overcharge. However, the heat thingy is rather odd.

You really need the service company to return and make it correct regardless of the actual problem.

Quote:

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Originally posted by dlls_22_sport
Good evening all,

Im trying to find out why my 5 ton a/c condeser makes a major noise when turning on and then its operates smoothly afterwards.It also blows what smells and feels like heat for the first 20 seconds of operation.The sound it makes when coming on is like a loud vibrating type of sound.

I have a 5 ton 13 seer Payne condeser with a goldmans 10 seer electic furnace.The condenser is 1 month old and the furnace is about 9 years old.

If anyone have any idea why the unit is making this noise feel free to express.

Thank's

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This is turtle.

I have seen this on one laterly and i think it is the same, but can be wrong. You have a 3 oir 5 KW electric element hung up and staying on. You have a electric element that is staing on and building up a good amounmt of heat in the electric furnace and building up a high pressure for the compressor to start against. The compressor will shack raddle and roll when starting up with a very high back pressure and drives the head pressure up to the moon. It would take the condenser 20 seconds to get up to good speed and bring this high pressure or heat of the coil down to a point to stop the raddling.

Now here is the test you can runn to see if it is the problem. turn on your cooling system and turn it up to 90 degrees to keep it from running. then wait about 10 minutes and then get some one to feel the air coming out the whens when you turn on just the fan. Do this and you will feel very hot air for about 5 seconds and thevthe temperature of the air coming out the vent will go back to ambiant temp. of the room. Then try it again turn off the fan for about 10 minutes and just turn on the fan and feel thecair. if the air first coming oput is very hot and in 5 to 10 seconds it cools off to room ambiant here is what it is.

You have a electric element hung up and staying on all the time. Call you installer and get him to test for electric element hung up and running all the time. He can find it if he is good.

OH yea , you need to do something about this for your going to get a $500.00 to $600.00 electric bill for running like this if normal is $200.00.

TURTLE

Thank's Turtle for your info,I believe this pressure build up you mentioned is my problem.I do feel heat the moment my a/c kicks on and then it turns cool.Plus my electric bill was $220.00 for a 15 day period.

I talked to my installer over the phone about what the unit was doing and he said he would be out to install a Start Up kit or Starter Kit.Im surely am going to bring up the pressure build up and el;etric element staying on.

I appreciate your valuable response.

THANK'S Chris M.

Quote:

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Originally posted by dlls_22_sport
Thank's Turtle for your info,I believe this pressure build up you mentioned is my problem.I do feel heat the moment my a/c kicks on and then it turns cool.Plus my electric bill was $220.00 for a 15 day period.

I talked to my installer over the phone about what the unit was doing and he said he would be out to install a Start Up kit or Starter Kit.Im surely am going to bring up the pressure build up and el;etric element staying on.

I appreciate your valuable response.

THANK'S Chris M.

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Those starter kits seem to solve a lot of contractors "problems"..:)

Make sure he does a full diagnosis of the system and doesn't just come out and throw the part in.

A crankcase heater would probably solve more than a start cpacitor would. A liquid line solenoid valve would also help (which would require a start cap).

I am guessing you have a long lineset, and the outdoor unit is below the indoor unit?

Just had a call with the same symptoms...

New 13 seer condenser with old 10 seer evap coil in air handler. Coils are mismatched. Old 10 seer coil inside doesn't hold enough volume of refrigerant proportionate to the size of the new condenser on the off cycle and compressor slugs refrigerant on start up.
Liquid refrigerant always migrates to the cooler part of the system during the off cycle.

Heat from ductwork on startup is residual air in ductwork super heated by air temp in attic...Blows warm till cooler air from air handler cools ductwork down. Initial blast of air will be warm....

Back to the call....Changed out air handler with Payne matching air handler.... Noise gone for good....

Customer actually requested PAYNE :eek:

Liquid line solenoid valve with pump down cycle and start kit would fix the problem as Docholiday suggested... New matching air handler will also do it and reap better efficiency...

[Edited by qssfl on 09-02-2006 at 11:45 PM]