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Originally Posted by Qamar

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Thanks for the download.

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buy a new fridge

Originally Posted by Home&Marine

Since I have worked on some small Boat systems I'll tell you something... Throw it Away. These small fridges have an extremely small cap tube. The odds are if you put a torch on it, you'll have so much trash inside the system it wouldn't work anyway.

If it's about spending the money, look for a used one (but don't buy a Haier. The compressors only last about 2 or 3 years.)

It's a $100.00 education.

You shouldn't have any "trash" in the system if you purge nitrogen through while brazing in a proper suction access fitting, and new bullet drier with the high side fitting. I have done this many times, with perfect results, I use pressures and amp draw to achieve proper operation when the data plate is missing or if I increase the system volume by the addition of a larger drier/extra piping.
And I can tell you that even on the high side of the system, the refrig epoxy that I used has held for 14 years now. Never had a failure and I use that only when brazing is not an option, and even once come to think of it when I had no vacuum pump available. System pressure at or just above atmospheric preventing infiltration of air into system. Epoxy set up in 20 minutes and charged up within an hour. Didn't expect it to be anything more than a temp repair but it worked great.
Normally after sanding/roughing up leak area, and then wiping down with alcohol pad, I will mix epoxy, apply all the way around the tube if possible, then after five minutes, start vacuum pump. This pulls epoxy into leak enough to create a good seal and not enough to plug up the line. I have cut into the line afterward and visually confirmed this. This epoxy states it has a 4000psi working strength so it covers anything we work on...

My advice to the OP is to place an ad for a home brewing friendly reefer tech to assist you and in turn you help him get into making home brew or trade him some skills you have (ie. home reno, landscaping, what have you...)
Unless you have the right tools and experience, your sentimental college fridge just became a lampstand.

PS. If you don't want it to stink inside, you better prop the door open. Once food or organics have been stored inside, bacteria on the inner surfaces will grow and make it a large petri dish.

Since I have worked on some small Boat systems I'll tell you something... Throw it Away. These small fridges have an extremely small cap tube. The odds are if you put a torch on it, you'll have so much trash inside the system it wouldn't work anyway.

If it's about spending the money, look for a used one (but don't buy a Haier. The compressors only last about 2 or 3 years.)

It's a $100.00 education.

Originally Posted by jdwendling

How do you fit 5 gal. of wort in one of those little frdg's?? Add cold water to the 2 gal. boil and let set for a few drinks and its ready to pitch the yest. Don't worry have a home brew.. In the winter I set the brew pot outside on the cold concrete for awhile and its down to temp..

Not sure how hes doing it or batch size. I do 5 gal at a time too. When I construct my wort chiller ill use 3/8 copper coiled to fit in the cooking vessel. The quicker you can cool your wort the better.

How do you fit 5 gal. of wort in one of those little frdg's?? Add cold water to the 2 gal. boil and let set for a few drinks and its ready to pitch the yest. Don't worry have a home brew.. In the winter I set the brew pot outside on the cold concrete for awhile and its down to temp..

Originally Posted by ICanHas

Ok, but "it's cheaper" is getting to be an excuse for technical incompetency these days.

Or economics... Purchase a vacuum pump, micron gauge, manifold and gauges, charging scale, copper and fittings, torch set, brazing rod, digital thermometer, etc... maybe a $1,700 investment for tools and supplies alone.

-or-

A new dorm fridge for $99.

Originally Posted by ICanHas

What sets the evaporator temperature then?

A lot of engineering for your particular application. Compressor size (capacity), refrigerant, refrigerant charge, metering device, coil size, air flow, ambient temperature, designed box temperature. (and a little technical competency).

Overcharging a system will lead to higher evap pressures and poor refrigeration performance, sure, but will have other consequences including higher head pressure, and higher mechanical and electrical stress on the compressor, possible flood back to the compressor, etc.

Originally Posted by icemeister

If it were only that simple.

What sets the evaporator temperature then?

Originally Posted by ICanHas

On the same topic... could you add more refrigerant to a chest freezer to up the evaporator temperature for keg use?

Seeing that low charge leads to coil freeze-up when you up the charge, wouldn't it raise the SST thus raise the evaporator temperature?

If I'm wrong, how is the suction pressure (which sets evaporator temperature) set?

If it were only that simple.

Ok, but "it's cheaper" is getting to be an excuse for technical incompetency these days.

These are (very) critically charged systems. Look on the tag and notice that the charge is weighed in ounces and hundredths of an ounce. I won't even think of recharging these when you can buy a new one sooooo cheaply. Las one I had was a wine cooler with a glass door. Gave it to a guy that uses it to brood reptile eggs.

On the same topic... could you add more refrigerant to a chest freezer to up the evaporator temperature for keg use?

Seeing that low charge leads to coil freeze-up when you up the charge, wouldn't it raise the SST thus raise the evaporator temperature?

If I'm wrong, how is the suction pressure (which sets evaporator temperature) set?

I'm a brewer too. I use a coil of 3/8" copper as a wort chiller. I drop it in 20 minutes before the end of the boil. During the winter, the tap water is cold enough to lower the wort temp to 70. During the summer, I use a second coil submerged in an ice water bath as a pre-cooling coil to sub-cool the tap water before it gets to the main coil. When the wort gets down to about 100, I drop a submersible pump into the chilled water and pump the chilled water through the wort coil and back. This cools it down to 70 in just a few minutes. This whole process takes less then 30 minutes.

Now have you calculated how long it should take to cool your batch with your refrigerator. I make 5 gallon batches which is about 42 lbs. Assume the wort has a similar specific heat as water at 1 btu/lb. In order to cool 42 lbs of wort from 212 to 70 would require (212-70) * 42 = 5964 btu.

That would take a fridge with a 11,928 btu/hr capacity to cool the wort in 30 minutes.

Yeah, even with all the proper tools and knowledge, most of us would have to agree with JP- Most professionals wouldn't fix it if it were their own, much less try to walk someone through it. Let's face it, an epoxy repair probably isn't going to hold up or be leak-tight, you would need a professional vacuum pump (300-500), a compression fitting on the process tube (that third tube coming out of the compressor that is capped off) would be a constant leak, you'd have to beg, borrow, or steal a whole lot of tools to do it properly. I will, however, throw you a bone- Any auto parts store should sell small cans of 134a. If you can find a way to make this system leak-proof, and get the system evacuated and then find a way to get the right amount of refrigerant out of the can and into the system, more power to you.

its 101 repair instructions may be a poor idea

O.k. it's looking like no one here is going to help ya out. Should I give him step by step instructions or are open workshops not permitted ?

Originally Posted by 2sac

You can get a new one for under $100. 'nuff said.

I've got the tools and the knowledge and I wouldn't mess with fixing it.

You can get a new one for under $100. 'nuff said.

Agree with vzenuh. They are basically disposable. Love the v-tech school idea. Worth a shot. Good luck.