Post a reply to the thread: Rusted bolts
You may choose an icon for your message from this list
Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Will turn www.example.com into [URL]http://www.example.com[/URL].
too bad you cant get a sawzall in there ....
Originally Posted by zartangreen I put up with the deletes because of this. I never once tried that. It does make sense. Ill plug the orange can K Thanks I try to tighten almost everything before I loosen it. Works every time and you will rarely break bolts when you get in the habit of doing this. Also a big fan of WD-40. Don't care for PB or Aero-Kroil or any of these other home-made concoctions. I do like a product made by CRC called screw-loose. Seems to work pretty good.
Originally Posted by chesehd It is going to sound crazy but after soaking with WD-40/PB Blaster/Liquid Wrench try to tighten the heads just a little bit to break them loose. You can also spend about 2-3 minutes tapping each bolt with a hammer before turning them. I know tightening is the exact opposite of your objective but after soaking, then tapping, it frequently works. If all that fails there is always the torch... Good Luck! Ken I put up with the deletes because of this. I never once tried that. It does make sense. Ill plug the orange can K Thanks
Originally Posted by valdelocc What brand of baby powder do you prefer? do you think fine flour would do the job too? how bout stainless grade vaseline? I'm very worry about galling up stainless bolts Attachment 373651
I think you may be right. Originally Posted by monkeyspanners Its a sort of scissor action tool, two fingers to go either side on top and one to push on the thread below, its actioned by a setscrew at the other end. I don't carry one on the truck either but think the guys been working on it a week so he could have picked one up in the time!
Originally Posted by lytning I think you mean a ball joint press. That should work, or maybe a pitman arm puller. Trouble is these aren't things that are usually carried in a service truck. Its a sort of scissor action tool, two fingers to go either side on top and one to push on the thread below, its actioned by a setscrew at the other end. I don't carry one on the truck either but think the guys been working on it a week so he could have picked one up in the time!
I think you mean a ball joint press. That should work, or maybe a pitman arm puller. Trouble is these aren't things that are usually carried in a service truck. Originally Posted by monkeyspanners Would a ball joint splitter be any use? Not sure if i'm picturing it correctly.
Originally Posted by GT Jets Don't forget to sprinkle some talc powder on the new stainless bolts, otherwise they could get galled up on the installation process.... Been dealing with stainless steel fasteners my entire adult life, was a marine/boat mechanic before making things cooler.... What brand of baby powder do you prefer? do you think fine flour would do the job too? how bout stainless grade vaseline? I'm very worry about galling up stainless bolts
Would a ball joint splitter be any use? Not sure if i'm picturing it correctly.
Originally Posted by r404a gt what about never seize? is talc powder better? r404a IMHO it needs to be rated for stainless, not the moly crap you find in the hardware store. Stainless rated anti seize has stainless and graphite in it, not moly and copper. If I had to choose between regular old anti seize or lithium grease, I would choose the lithium. Talc works well because it does not alter the torque ratio for critical fasteners. I use Safe-T-Eze stainless formula, they also have food grade stuff which is PTFE. Working around wineries and vegetable processing plants, you have to be mindful of what products you use. Talc works well and technically food grade. GT
gt what about never seize? is talc powder better? r404a
try loctite freeze and release
Originally Posted by Tech Rob Well, I haven't seen the site and I don't really know what he's up against, but I'd be lying if I didn't say I mentally face-palmed when I read your last statement. Mentally face palmed....love it. How sad is that? A week??
Don't forget to sprinkle some talc powder on the new stainless bolts, otherwise they could get galled up on the installation process.... Been dealing with stainless steel fasteners my entire adult life, was a marine/boat mechanic before making things cooler....
Originally Posted by Tommy knocker 13 year pipe fitter? On this for a week now? Wow. He could have cut the whole flange, rust bolts included, out and put a whole new one in in a half day. $100 an hour, or more, for a week? I'd be one pi$$ed off customer. I think it was a quoted job to make the repairs I hear the office is mad he is there so many hrs but I'm sure it's cheaper to just cut out the whole flange n install new with new bolts, but hey it's not my part I was gonna help n seer what I can doo
An electric, or pneumatic impact wrench will likely solve the problem as well.
13 year pipe fitter? On this for a week now? Wow. He could have cut the whole flange, rust bolts included, out and put a whole new one in in a half day. $100 an hour, or more, for a week? I'd be one pi$$ed off customer.
Originally Posted by anthonyac1 I don't tell him much but he has been on this for about a week now Well, I haven't seen the site and I don't really know what he's up against, but I'd be lying if I didn't say I mentally face-palmed when I read your last statement.
Originally Posted by Tech Rob If that thing, whatever you're working on, is valved off and drained, then cut all of the bolts at the same time and just work the entire pipe and flange until all of the bolts fall right out. I know exactly what you mean. I've never done it, but I could see how maybe you could do that with a c-clamp and a short piece of pipe. I think he is making it more of a mission than what it really is. He is a union pipe fitter for about 13 years so I don't wanna go up on his ladder n tell him much. I'm just getting into the union but I've worked for a non union shop where the owner will throw me on anything n I better find a solution, one thing I must say it made me well rounded. So I don't tell him much but he has been on this for about a week now
If that thing, whatever you're working on, is valved off and drained, then cut all of the bolts at the same time and just work the entire pipe and flange until all of the bolts fall right out. I know exactly what you mean. I've never done it, but I could see how maybe you could do that with a c-clamp and a short piece of pipe.
Forum Rules
