Post a reply to the thread: DIRECT IGNITION PROBLEM SHOULD BE SIMPLE!
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Hey guys. Not sure if you fixed this issue. The coils on the gas valves should read infinity to 1300ohms. -+150ohms. It sounds like the coils don't have the strength to keep the valve open. Lg dryers have this issue
Originally Posted by Youngwiseman I dont have a water manometer to check the gas pressure in and out the valve, any suggestions Originally Posted by 2sac GET ONE!!! I haven't assembled it yet though.
Originally Posted by big papa paul whoa,whoa, whoa, young fella.first of all the burner isn't going to light twice on "OLD GAS".first make sure your flame rod is clean,the porcelain is not cracked and the wire and connections are clean and tight all the way back to your ignition control.also make sure your burner ground is clean and tight.next"GET A MAGNEHLIC OR WATER MANOMETER" and get it hooked up.you claim to have 4 years exp.but you don't have even the basic tools to do the job right.next the flame signal does vary from control to control so try and find out your controls microamp range.next fire the unit and watch your gas pressure gauge.if you have your pressure and an actual flame you'll be able to read your flame signal.if your flame signal is in fact low and your sensor is clean tight and not broken,then you have a bad ignition control.remember the rectification thru the flame rod does not generate the signal,but only completes the path.the ignition control generates the signal.good luck and get your tools a little a time if necessary.i remember when i first started.drop just one 6 pack a week and you'll be surprised how the tools will add up!!! Dropping a 6 pack is NEVER a good idea. If you want to save money, water down the baby's formula or leave the diaper on an extra day. A little Febreeze will take care of the smell and if the kid doesn't venture outside, you don't need to worry about flies.
whoa,whoa, whoa, young fella.first of all the burner isn't going to light twice on "OLD GAS".first make sure your flame rod is clean,the porcelain is not cracked and the wire and connections are clean and tight all the way back to your ignition control.also make sure your burner ground is clean and tight.next"GET A MAGNEHLIC OR WATER MANOMETER" and get it hooked up.you claim to have 4 years exp.but you don't have even the basic tools to do the job right.next the flame signal does vary from control to control so try and find out your controls microamp range.next fire the unit and watch your gas pressure gauge.if you have your pressure and an actual flame you'll be able to read your flame signal.if your flame signal is in fact low and your sensor is clean tight and not broken,then you have a bad ignition control.remember the rectification thru the flame rod does not generate the signal,but only completes the path.the ignition control generates the signal.good luck and get your tools a little a time if necessary.i remember when i first started.drop just one 6 pack a week and you'll be surprised how the tools will add up!!!
The Food Stamp Program, administered by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, is proud to be distributing the greatest amount of free meals and stamps EVER. Meanwhile, the National Park Service, administered by the U.S. Department of the Interior, asks us to "Please Do Not Feed the Animals". Their stated reason for this policy "... the animals become dependent on handouts and will not learn to take care of themselves." from an excerpt by Paul Jacob in Sun City, AZ PACNW. Great sig line.
Originally Posted by 2sac Seeing as this thread is almost 4 months old, you are absolutely correct... That makes me wonder if it was ever fixed at all...
Originally Posted by 2sac I deserve props! That was DAMN funny if I do say so myself. It was pretty good I must say lol
Originally Posted by Joehvac25 Boy your a real smart Alec! I deserve props! That was DAMN funny if I do say so myself.
WOW!! I thought I was gonna learn something here. 30 minutes of my life, I'm nor getting back. note to self. get plenty of wire nuts for them ground thingys.
Originally Posted by 2sac Seeing as this thread is almost 4 months old, you are absolutely correct... Boy your a real smart Alec!
Originally Posted by Joseph'bidness Timing is everything, really. Seeing as this thread is almost 4 months old, you are absolutely correct...
it should empty the tube
Originally Posted by njhove when heated sand turns 2 glass. glass is an excellant insulator. u dnt want ur FS to b insulated. I use an emery cloth I m sur u don wnt 2 use tx style at ths 4um.
is that cat chewing on heat strips?
Timing is everything, really.
Your gas valve should have voltage for about four seconds after the igniter has glowed which is about seventeen to roughly twenty five seconds. Measure the voltage at the valve and see if it is dropping out from a failed relay. Check the limit switch inside the cabinet some smart Alec could of put it in backwards in the summer to get an easy call for winter.
Damn ya'll. Give him a break, he knows the sequence of operations and EVERYTHING!
No need to make additional posts to this unfortunate thread. I just hope the OP is not out there subjecting the public to his style of repair...
You picked a great thread to introduce yourself on njhove, do you work with youngwiseman? We've missed him around here, he hasn't been around much since this thead. Welcome aboard, looking forward to more furnace repair wisdom from you.
when heated sand turns 2 glass. glass is an excellant insulator. u dnt want ur FS to b insulated. I use an emery cloth
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