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Originally Posted by Snapperhead Do they have the same false alarms like the cheapy sniffers do ?? I don't even use my sniffer anymore because of this .... I just grab bubbles Sometimes the H-10 has a false positive... When I do a leak search I 're-test' the area (along with other areas)... to verify the leak (multiple checks). When the H-10 has repeatedly smelled a leak in a specific area.... Get out the big-blue. Bubbles and it is a go to fix!
Do they have the same false alarms like the cheapy sniffers do ?? I don't even use my sniffer anymore because of this .... I just grab bubbles
Originally Posted by Poodle Head Mikey Really? Where can I get a battery for $20. ? I have a brand-new battery-type H-10 that I have never used. It seemed like a great idea but after getting it I kept using the corded ones while the battery one sat in a closet until the battery failed. <g> PHM ------- http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-2-3AH-Re...UAAOSwwbdWPSvB
As I understand it... the 'PRO' model of the H-10 is more sensitive to 410... I have a pre-PRO model... which can be 'coaxed' into smelling 410 with some technique for very small leaks. Generally what I do is attempt to duplicate the leak location 3-4 times to verify it is not a false reading... Then follow with soap bubbles. Works for me...
The H-10 needs to have the 'Universal' rating. I've got the H-10G, not sure if there was a universal rating before that version. The H-10G picks up HFC's just fine. After it warms up, always check the sensitivity with the calibrated leak bottle. Had a co-worker trying to find a leak a couple or few months back. His leak detector could not pick up the calibrated leak from my bottle. D'oh! Originally Posted by GoCougs What's been your experience using the H10 for HFC's like R410a? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Originally Posted by GoCougs What's been your experience using the H10 for HFC's like R410a? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I have a few H10s all from different manufactures Johnson Controls, Tiff and Mars My Mars one works very well for HFC's
: rolleyes : (no spaces) http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/misc.php?do...vB_Editor_QE_1 I just bought a reference cylinder just so I can have some r11. I know...lame
Increase the heater until you get a signal from a know source.
Originally Posted by BBeerme How do I post eye roll thingies ? Or the big face palm thingie ? What's been your experience using the H10 for HFC's like R410a? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2xAttachment 789741
How do I post eye roll thingies ? Or the big face palm thingie ? Originally Posted by chrigs the h10 is still the best detector for small leaksas far as i know,dont worry about the the r11 bottle , mine ran out 15 years ago. it is just a referance point. i have considered going to the h10 battery units, but have heard their just not the same, i currently use a detect select, much more conveiniant and pretty darn good, but i still keep the h10 for back up
the h10 is still the best detector for small leaksas far as i know,dont worry about the the r11 bottle , mine ran out 15 years ago. it is just a referance point. i have considered going to the h10 battery units, but have heard their just not the same, i currently use a detect select, much more conveiniant and pretty darn good, but i still keep the h10 for back up
http://www.instructables.com/id/The-...er-Capacitor-/
You could just put the probe next to the outlet on a jug of freezey juice. With the valve shut. DO NOT OPEN. Techs are always surprised how the H-10 will pick up the infinitesimally small leak right there when I do that. I do that to show them how inadequate their leak detector is.
The manual for the H10 Pro states to use the medium setting for CHFC's and small for HFC's Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Originally Posted by Poodle Head Mikey Really? Where can I get a battery for $20. ? I have a brand-new battery-type H-10 that I have never used. It seemed like a great idea but after getting it I kept using the corded ones while the battery one sat in a closet until the battery failed. <g> PHM ------- It is a common acid battery for UPSs 12v 15.00 for the original size. Go for the mega capacitors like 10F @ 16v on Ebay kits. Touch to your car battery with a light bulb in series & you are charged for a week. Unlike LA batteries. Caps will not go bad from over/under charging. LAs are so so fragile. Great thread people! I find some hoses defuse just the right amount to substitute for the reference bottle.
Originally Posted by Poodle Head Mikey Do not 'calibrate' with any refrigerant! The point of the R-11 bottle was to simulate a REALLY TINY leak. If you just use a puff of other refrigerants 'just to see if it's working' it will drastically shorten the life of the sensor. PHM ------- He may have already had to replace the sensor before he got this info the thread is old
I always start on the small setting. After I start getting traces, then I switch to medium. And if I have to, then to large. Pinpoint and verify with soap bubbles. Sensors last several years for me.
Speaking of technique: I always start on the LARGE setting to go over the system. If that turns up nothing, or just an intermittent 'trace' response, I then switch down to MEDIUM and retrace my steps. About the only time I ever have to use the LOW setting is for braze joint porosity and eroded u-bends. PHM -------- Originally Posted by Gunslinger when leak testing r22, start at the med switch position. The small position will eat the sensor. Battery models can be a pain...you must charge them. batteries are available for $20.oo but make sure not to cross the polarity.
Really? Where can I get a battery for $20. ? I have a brand-new battery-type H-10 that I have never used. It seemed like a great idea but after getting it I kept using the corded ones while the battery one sat in a closet until the battery failed. <g> PHM ------- Originally Posted by Gunslinger when leak testing r22, start at the med switch position. The small position will eat the sensor. Battery models can be a pain...you must charge them. batteries are available for $20.oo but make sure not to cross the polarity.
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