Post a reply to the thread: ak900 questions
You may choose an icon for your message from this list
Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Will turn www.example.com into [URL]http://www.example.com[/URL].
Originally Posted by hvac wiz 79 Hope u have better luck than i did using an old testo clamp. I felt certain it would work after making it as it looked good but temp was off . I'm wondering if i didn't let it sit down deep enough in the groove I'm planning on mounting insulation on the jaws so it presses the sensor into the foam insulation when clamped on the pipe to get a more accurate reading
Hope u have better luck than i did using an old testo clamp. I felt certain it would work after making it as it looked good but temp was off . I'm wondering if i didn't let it sit down deep enough in the groove
These look like the testo clamps and may work well as digi-cool custom clamps http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051
Originally Posted by JAYLUPARK Ah thanks JP. You guys purge your hoses and manifold with nitrogen after every hookup? thanks jay If I did that, I'd burn a cylinder of nitrogen a week. cross contamination is an overblown issue. Forget about it.
i was thinking about using the clamps from broken testo 550 sensor and just retro fit the new Digicool to them. I think the Testo sensor worked well and were easy to use.
Originally Posted by JAYLUPARK Ah thanks JP. You guys purge your hoses and manifold with nitrogen after every hookup? thanks jay I don't but probably should. I'm going Friday to buy the supplies to fabricate a few clamps for my ak900, hope I don't regret toying with this thing.
Ah thanks JP. You guys purge your hoses and manifold with nitrogen after every hookup? thanks jay
If the low side was blinking, the pressure was above 200 PSIA.
Hooked up AK900 today on new install. 4 ton 410a piston metering devise. High side 208 low 106 and blinking????? Boss goes nuts something wrong, come to find out blockage or oil in low side manifold. Purged with nitrogen all seems fine. Is blinking low or high side pressure readings on gauge a signal that something is wrong? is so that one smart gauge. On a side note the new stretchy Velcro sensors are awesome! Thanks Jay
Originally Posted by kamersoutdoor Does anyone know how to calibrate the low side? Mine consistently reads 0.5 lower than high side even at standing pressure. Also my high side ball valve will leak by periodically (on manifold). Is there a rebuild kit that anyone is aware of? And while I'm at it....Is it normal for the low side to blink and quit reading at pressures above 130-150 psi? (even 410a) Thanks Purge to atmospheric and press ZERO. The low side transducer is rated to 200 PSIA or about 185, so yes, it blinks above that pressure
i do agree i love not having frozen oily hands but didn't think that was the reason the epa requires the fittings to be used. I also love the fact that you can cross contaminate system from having beat refrigeratnt in your hoses and you may for get before hooking them up to another system. I know the amount is very minor but its the thought that counts. Definition: Low-Loss Fitting - any device that is intended to establish a connection between hoses, appliances, or recovery/recycling machines, and that is designed to close automatically or to be closed manually when disconnected to minimize the release of refrigerant from hoses, appliances, and recovery or recycling machines. I emailed the EPA and we'll see what the people in charge of these laws have to say. Its say they will get back with-in 24hrs but we will see about that. I am interested to see if they even have a specific answer!
Originally Posted by Nytefog I was aware that purging hoses was ok, bu thought that the point of low loss fitting was to not vent to the atmosphere why else would they require the use? I don't understand? So you don't blister your hands while working on a remote RT chiller condenser in 40 & under deg weather! Works for me!! Get real sick of the layers of skin removed that way
Originally Posted by jpsmith1cm De Minimus The EPA recognizes that a certain amount of refrigerant is going to be lost during service procedures. Venting or purging hoses is part of that. I was aware that purging hoses was ok, bu thought that the point of low loss fitting was to not vent to the atmosphere why else would they require the use? I don't understand?
My ball valve leaked also. I was told to tighten the Allen screw on the side. I also noticed a machining issue on the interior under site glass .. Hope it doesn't break free into system although it appears ok but you never know
Does anyone know how to calibrate the low side? Mine consistently reads 0.5 lower than high side even at standing pressure. Also my high side ball valve will leak by periodically (on manifold). Is there a rebuild kit that anyone is aware of? And while I'm at it....Is it normal for the low side to blink and quit reading at pressures above 130-150 psi? (even 410a) Thanks
De Minimus The EPA recognizes that a certain amount of refrigerant is going to be lost during service procedures. Venting or purging hoses is part of that.
i thought you were suppose to recover it technically speaking.
Originally Posted by Nytefog Don't want to violate EPA regualtion venting reffer into the atmosphere. Thats why i had those hoses, but according to the epa they are mandatory. A ball valve hose end qualifies as a low-loss fitting. The whole low-loss thing is a joke, anyway. You're going to have to vent that residual refrigerant sometime.
Originally Posted by a\c don I use YJ ball valves on my hoses. The low loss should not be a problem as long as you remember to release any pressure in your hoses before zeroing the DRSA. Don't want to violate EPA regualtion venting reffer into the atmosphere. Thats why i had those hoses, but according to the epa they are mandatory.
Originally Posted by Nytefog Does anyone else have concerns about using low loss hoses on your guages because of zeroing issues? I use YJ ball valves on my hoses. The low loss should not be a problem as long as you remember to release any pressure in your hoses before zeroing the DRSA.
Forum Rules