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In my experience in the last few days, it does seem to make a difference, that's all I'm saying. These were on upright reach-ins that had product in them. (It's only on the Back-Bar under-counter boxes I make customer empty the box, because the evaporator is very difficult to access)

I remember the last time I talked to True about t-stat issues (on a TSSU sandwich unit I think), they wanted me to adjust calibration screws on the t-stat, then watch a cycle, then take it all back apart, adjust, reinstall, watch, etc. until I got it just right. On that particular box they wanted a 15*f cut-out and 35*f cut in (this is evaporator temperature of course, they do not care about box temperature.)

The box will behave a much differently when it has product in it.

I don't think the copper tube makes any measurable difference in the response time of the control. It is common for a box to go below freezing before cutting out...especially if it is empty. Most of those boxes are designed to cut back in around 41, so that isn't unusual either. Product temp is what the real test is, not box air temp.

I realize this post is very old, but just recently a few weeks ago, I changed three thermostats on three True back-bar (TBB model) coolers: IN ONE DAY!! Not sure why True t-stats always seem to get erratic and freeze product. When I replace, first customer removes all product. Then I replace t-stat. I don't reinstall in the copper tube in the evaporator. On this particular model, I drop the evap cover enough to get to the front of the evaporator, the insert the A12-700 capillary directly into the evaporator coil (after either folding it up, or coiling it up into a pretty little pigtail.)

In the last 2 days I have also replaced three True thermostats with A12-700's, but they have been upright Reachins (t-49, t-19, gdm-49). Tried installing in the copper tube, and it seems somehow, the copper tube "insulates" the capillary and slows down the response a lot. So it the box would get too cold (~30*f), cycle off, then not cycle on until too warm (~42*f). It responds much better folded or coiled up and installed directly into the fins: consistent 37*f cut-in, 33*f cut-out (box temperatures, not evap temps). AND it's a lot easier to install them this way. I think from now on I will always do it this way.

I remember reading a post about the copper tube on True's breaking loose so they don't make good contact, and this causes issues. Or as my service manager says "Yeah, True t-stats suck."

Originally Posted by BottleCooler3

True's refrigerated back bar coolers are designed with enduring quality and value.

You haven't worked on your fair share yet or you'd think differently, can't stand True boxes , but they keep me in business

True's refrigerated back bar coolers are designed with enduring quality and value.

Originally Posted by bacciagalupe

def not the same box .glass door undercounter bottle cooler with 3 doors

The t-stat is mounted in a long vertical corner panel on the back left corner no?
Then there is a small chase into the side of the evap and once you get that all down you have to blindly contort your hand and may even need to do a little prying on the god awfull huge drain pan fan shroud to get to the evap tube for the sensing bulb am I close?

Its not all that hard and you don't need a ladder

Easy Money

With the cresant shaped evap.... right

def not the same box .glass door undercounter bottle cooler with 3 doors

Now your getting the hang of it LOL
I don't remember it being that hard actually
PITA Maybe but its just the side panel and a reach around.
The prep tables are harder IMO with all the mayo and snit over head and that cover with the shelves and supports

#1 you cant even see or feel where the sleeve is for the control capilary . they have it up against the top back wall . of course its full of frozen poped open beer bottles they are open and they want it fixed . so i cant pull it out to remove the doors then pull the top and get it in that way . any other true has a two screw acess and 123 you change the control . i ended up putting in a pig tail style in the coil

If you removed the moulding you've opened a can of worms...

Originally Posted by bacciagalupe

Has any one had the pleasure of changing a constant cut in t stat on one of these units ? what a PITA

If your a really small guy you can get inside and work.

haha ive replaced quite a few myself ..... not the easiest but def not the worst but i totally feel u its a b!tch ... im not a fan of these designs but for the end user its perfect lol

thermostat

put in a ranco a12-701

You know the top comes off right?

true bottle cooler TBB_4G

Has any one had the pleasure of changing a constant cut in t stat on one of these units ? what a PITA