Post a reply to the thread: RTAC Compressor Terminal Sweating Issue
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Originally Posted by Tech Rob No reason a relatively small refrigeration compressor should cost as much as a car... I would suggest looking for new supplier of compressors
On a YCAS that I serviced: did same painted with liquid rubber and then used a 3/4" flat armaflex and then pressed terminals onto armaflex. Punched-out indentations to allow for access, for checking voltage. Afterward,I spray glued around the edges of terminal box and used a piece of flat wood to hold overnight to set. It's been over a year and all is good. Sounds crazy, but it worked.
the older York YCAS compressors had issues similar to this, the terminal for the motor temp sensors would sweat and corrode or break off after time.
No reason a relatively small refrigeration compressor should cost as much as a car...
Originally Posted by Tech Rob ...I don't ever want to have to tell someone that something I did just cost them $50k. hurry up and buy it! the prices are skyrocketing!
I wouldn't really call this a design flaw on the part of Trane. Terminal condensation is something that's going to happen any time you put any kind of hermetic or semi-hermetic refrigeration compressor outdoors or in a non-conditioned space. They have been doing some goofy stuff with some of their other equipment. The RTAC is one of the best air-cooled chillers on the market, though. cperk, I've been lucky enough to never make a mistake like that. I don't ever want to have to tell someone that something I did just cost them $50k.
Aside from the occasional sensor and condenser fan motor I've had little problems with my RTAA's. Iv'e got 4. Their only design flaw I see is they didn't use any type of sound attenuating equipment on them. Yea I know you can buy a kit. Had a Exv go bad on a 7 year old Chiller but that was it. To the guys who are getting sweating motor terminals check your oil temp when the comp is off. If it's cold liquid is migrating back to that compressor during the off cycle. Replacing he EXVs fixed the terminal issue on one of my RTAA 110 s Their RTU's are known for restrictions but usually the driers catch whatever it is those Comps are spitting out. I've change far more Carrier headers than Tranes.
Thanks for all the replies. I have seen this on the RTAA's also but thought they would have learned from their mistakes on the new design. I hate to "rig" a 1.5 year old machine but you gotta do what you gotta do. I am sending some pics to their (customers) M.E. so they can handle it internally and give the go ahead. Its still just sad to see Their stuff getting hammered lately with design flaws. I generally like the equipment but between these repeated c and e coil failures, still having more headers stopping up on the new Voyagers and this issue, customers are grumbling a lot.
Originally Posted by Tech Rob To the OP, I have had to paint the motor terminals on RTAAs and RTACs with liquid electrical tape before. It's a good fix. It's easiest if you take the leads off the motor, just make sure you don't disturb the terminals themelves. Put the leads back in the right place or you'll be buying a new $20,000 compressor. Are you speaking from experience? That's the best way to learn. LOL!
To the OP, I have had to paint the motor terminals on RTAAs and RTACs with liquid electrical tape before. It's a good fix. It's easiest if you take the leads off the motor, just make sure you don't disturb the terminals themelves. Put the leads back in the right place or you'll be buying a new $20,000 compressor.
Originally Posted by Screwit Model # would help further, are you sure the compressor check valve is good. Have seen circumstances where a check valve failure (which could also damage the discharge valve seat) result in a thermo-siphon effect occurring when the compressor is off and cold water circulating in the evap. Good call. That's precisely the scenario I had in my mind.
Originally Posted by bcooling1 I installed the new cch. Came back the next morning, still sweating. had the compressor locked out all night. shut the liquid line off first, thought it was a leaking exv, didnt help. shut oil line, nothing, shut the discharge, nothing, shut the suction service valve and the sweating stopped. The chiller had not run in 20 hours, yet the compressor was sweating. I thought of a flooded evap. but even with the suction valve open there was no escape route for the refridgerant. The closing of the liquid line should eliminate the exv. leaking. in my mind. I did have 45 degree water going through the barrel, If thermal transfer was taking place the closing of the suction valve should not have made a difference, and #2 compressor should have also been sweating, in my view. Have spoken with trane in peublo, he needed some time for research. I have been through alot of the service tests, but with the unit off for 20 hours and the compressor sweating like crazy, not sure any numbers I post would be relavant, at this time. Any thoughts? thanks Model # would help further, are you sure the compressor check valve is good. Have seen circumstances where a check valve failure (which could also damage the discharge valve seat) result in a thermo-siphon effect occurring when the compressor is off and cold water circulating in the evap.
bcooling1, you should start a new thread. You've hijacked a thread about a different chiller with a different problem, that has been resolved. That could limit the number of views, and thus the amount of help that you get.
compressor sweating I installed the new cch. Came back the next morning, still sweating. had the compressor locked out all night. shut the liquid line off first, thought it was a leaking exv, didnt help. shut oil line, nothing, shut the discharge, nothing, shut the suction service valve and the sweating stopped. The chiller had not run in 20 hours, yet the compressor was sweating. I thought of a flooded evap. but even with the suction valve open there was no escape route for the refridgerant. The closing of the liquid line should eliminate the exv. leaking. in my mind. I did have 45 degree water going through the barrel, If thermal transfer was taking place the closing of the suction valve should not have made a difference, and #2 compressor should have also been sweating, in my view. Have spoken with trane in peublo, he needed some time for research. I have been through alot of the service tests, but with the unit off for 20 hours and the compressor sweating like crazy, not sure any numbers I post would be relavant, at this time. Any thoughts? thanks
compressor sweating
But hey a extra CCH is a good way to cook fish from the inside out right ????? Anyone ????
Originally Posted by bcooling1 got an rtaa doing the same thing. number 2 is not wet at all. in the process of finding out why. shut them off for 24 hours new cc heat, valved off exv., oil line, discharge, waiting to see if it stops. will update Had that happen on a RTAA 110, liquid drier canister sweating, 61 degree oil, CCH functional. Exv wouldn't seat properly and allowed liquid refrigerant to migrate back to the compressor. Put new valves on that Chiller 2 weeks ago. I've never had a CCH heater go out on any of my RTAAs
Originally Posted by bcooling1 got an rtaa doing the same thing. number 2 is not wet at all. in the process of finding out why. shut them off for 24 hours new cc heat, valved off exv., oil line, discharge, waiting to see if it stops. will update There is a bulletin on the RTAA's. It says to clean, dry and use the liquid rubber as Healey Nut stated. I have had a CHHN compressor short out due to this. I think it is caused, not just by the moisture, but the dust that moisture collects. On this particular one the jumper bars (across the line start) had burn marks on them, but had already killed the motor windings.
got an rtaa doing the same thing. number 2 is not wet at all. in the process of finding out why. shut them off for 24 hours new cc heat, valved off exv., oil line, discharge, waiting to see if it stops. will update
Originally Posted by Dallas Duster Didn't have this issue on the RTAA's did you? Yeppers
Originally Posted by Healey Nut Two choices , 1- liquid electrical tape and have fun once you dry the terminals off 2- go to your local motor shop buy a couple of cans of the paint they use on motor windings and dry the terminals off and spray away . problem solved . Didn't have this issue on the RTAA's did you?
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