Post a reply to the thread: Bad liquid service valve
You may choose an icon for your message from this list
Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Will turn www.example.com into [URL]http://www.example.com[/URL].
Now that I think about it , if you did the pinch off way , your better off adding a shrader near the bad valve , otherwise you wont be able to flow nitro while brazing. Now you can pull a vac from both sides as well.
you could add a 1/4" tap. Use two pinch offs, cut out old filter and reinstall filter w/ shrader and pull a 5 minute vacuum. reform tube. I'm not a fan of pulling vacuum through a TXV.
Originally Posted by myott If you do crimp off area to add a liquid line dryer how do then evacuate the area between the crimped area? Adding a shrader valve? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD just use the low side valve port you will have low side valve closed off , so the shrader will still be available to you on the evap side
Originally Posted by timjimbob myott- get a pinchoff tool or two. You can stop the refrigerant in copper tube like it was a valve and open it later. Great for adding a LL filter without having to pump down system, or if your service valve is broke. If you do crimp off area to add a liquid line dryer how do then evacuate the area between the crimped area? Adding a shrader valve? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Originally Posted by VTP99 For what it's worth I personally would not use a pinch off tool on a thru type line. On a process tube or to remove a pressure switch is one thing. Pinching a line then re rounding it is h*ll on the tube wall. That's my I agree.
For what it's worth I personally would not use a pinch off tool on a thru type line. On a process tube or to remove a pressure switch is one thing. Pinching a line then re rounding it is h*ll on the tube wall. That's my
Originally Posted by trai what the brand of that pinch off tool. Imperial tools makes one.
what the brand of that pinch off tool.
Valves aren't what they used to be. I heat sink the valves with extra rags...makes brazing a little tougher, but at least I don't cook any more cheap Chinese valves. I'd hate to be the guy using a Turbo Torch these day...you have to use them full open and you can't adjust the flame size. Makes for any easy overheat situation. I know few guys who can use a Turbo with out over heating line set and valves.
**** happens and valves fail to hold all the time, no need to automatically blame the installer or a person.. That effing valve was probably made in China anyway.
Thanks, that will come in handy.
Same tool .does both
Originally Posted by timjimbob myott- get a pinchoff tool or two. You can stop the refrigerant in copper tube like it was a valve and open it later. Great for adding a LL filter without having to pump down system, or if your service valve is broke. Never thought of this. Do you open the tubing using a flaring block?
myott- get a pinchoff tool or two. You can stop the refrigerant in copper tube like it was a valve and open it later. Great for adding a LL filter without having to pump down system, or if your service valve is broke.
Originally Posted by timjimbob If Lennox, these are one shot valves and will not close. It was a Carrier
Yes, back seated valve.
Originally Posted by timjimbob If Lennox, these are one shot valves and will not close. when they did use them it was only on the suction line, they have not been used in quite a few years though.
If Lennox, these are one shot valves and will not close.
Originally Posted by myott Cut coil out and cleaned with my coil gun, man I love that thing. Do you always remove the coil to clean ? I am thinking the installer must have cooked the valve and when he opened the valve on start up , front seated to valve to much. What do you guys think? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Did you mean to say back seated the valve to much ?
Forum Rules
