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I see. I will keep you posted.
Y2 is being used as the units second stage but under the right conditions ( unit oversized or mild conditions) a Carlyse comp wired like that can run unloaded for an excessive amount of time. Take Y2 out of the picture and that replacement will live a long life.
If it has an electric unloader there should be a relay circuit already there from the factory. If yes just move the factory input from Y2 to Y1 and then wire the make on delay in series with that relay signal. If not pick up the signal from Y1 through the delay on make relay and then to the relay coil. Small jumper from relay coil to n/c side of contacts for unloader solenoid power. Ignore Y2 altogether. Chances are if he's using a 2 stage stat its cost him more than one compressor.
Am I understanding correctly - if it's wired through y2. Then its unloaded on start up. So I should feed the solenoid through n.c. contacts, the coil being wired through a delay on make, via Y2. Therefore it starts unloaded (energized). Whe the delay on make closes, it unloads (de-energizes). And where should I pick up the signal for the n.c. relay contacts - from Y2 also?
Electric. Has solenoid. So I will follow through and finish the job. Owner of the business is one of my biggest customers. He's been in this building for over a year (one of three furniture stores, plus warehouses). I can see where this is not the first compressor put in ( mounting springs, bolts, etc). So we don't know the history much more than a year. This has been very interesting and educational.
Originally Posted by tonydykes55 The old one had unloader. I wasn't sure if there was a problem with the old one or not so I called manufacturer. He explained that depending on how the system was set up determined whether it was needed it or not. He said if the suction ever ran low the unloader would keep the pressure up. That's what I understood. I haven't hooked it up. It came width a sleeve that holds the valve open, if I'm correct, in the event that an unloader is not installed. That is how I left it. I'm glad you brought this up. Can you tell me more about it? Should I install it and if so how do I check it's operation? There is a low pressure switch. It depends on whether it was a "mechanical" unloader or electric unloader. Obviously the electric unloader will have a solenoid attached to it. It's purpose is to "unload" the head under a light load and "load " the head under a heavy load. It's a capcity control. 2 ways to unload a head internally on a 06 compressor. Either "Hot Gas By Pass" or "Suction Cut Off". You can tell the difference by the way the head is shaped. If it's smooth it is HGBP if it's suction cut off will have a four bolt plate mounted to the bottom of it. FYI carrier doesn't use HGBP any more to unload heads. If it's a mechanical unloader it needs to be checked when the compressor is running for correct load and unload set points. The way I've done it over the years is to throttle the suction king valve (slowly close but not all the way) to lower suction pressure and watch my gauges and my amp clamp for compressor load and unload. A mechanical unloader for R22 should be set to unload at around 65 PSI and load at around 75. The " nut " on the unloader cranked all the way down means that the compressor will run constantly unloaded.......( not good) Turn nut counter clockwise to adjust LOAD setpoint. Each FULL turn = 7.5 psi. Once your load set point is adjusted you can check differential. There should be a small cap on the side of the unloader. Remove cap and adjust differential with a flat head screw driver while your watching you gauges. Differential is adjustable up to about 20 psi and down to about 5 psi. I try to shoot for 10. IF ITS ELECTRIC.......some of those carrier RTU's have the unloader wired into Y2. You will have to use a relay to reverse the action since it's UNLOADED when it's energized. I HATE that....... Running a compressor continuously unloaded will kill it. This is what I do.....ancient chinese secret and has served me well. IF its electric put a delay on make timer and let it start unloaded. Let the delay on make wired through a relay to revers the action of the coil load the compressor up by de-energizing it after about 5 minutes. Works like a charm' A company called us out of the blue because they kept losing their 06Ds during the cooler months. I think they were on compressor number 5. Carrier 15 ton RTU loaded/unloaded through the Y2 output from the thermostat. I put in my little fix and that was 5 years ago. No problems. Make sure you clock the unloader correctly and remove the steel piston shipped with the 06D. Good luck and if you have an unloader I would use it.
I did install a new LL dryer. Also performed double evac. Didn't get back to check on it today.
I would most certainly hook it up if it had it OEM. I will let one of the more experienced guys on here help you with the set up but they will need to know if it is electric or pressure. If it is electric I would not trust that is is already set up right either. Did you check the oil level again. If you had oil stuck in the evap cause of the failed compressor you will be over charge once it comes back. I would check for acid also due to they way you described the oil color. A high acid drier might of helped you out here also.
The old one had unloader. I wasn't sure if there was a problem with the old one or not so I called manufacturer. He explained that depending on how the system was set up determined whether it was needed it or not. He said if the suction ever ran low the unloader would keep the pressure up. That's what I understood. I haven't hooked it up. It came width a sleeve that holds the valve open, if I'm correct, in the event that an unloader is not installed. That is how I left it. I'm glad you brought this up. Can you tell me more about it? Should I install it and if so how do I check it's operation? There is a low pressure switch.
Does that 06d have an unloader ? And if it has a mechanical unloader did you check the cut in and cut out SPs Hell even if it has a electrical unloader it operation needs to be confirmed. I always try to run down what killed the comp in the first place. It might have slugged on start-up if it had internal mechanical damage. I have a couple of 06ds in an old theater that were put in in 1974. Still pumping. Carlyse 06Ds
Set the new compressor tues. it rained for two days so I got back up today and started it. Pulled vac & weighed charge. Running beautiful. Head 235, suction 65. Has a txv. Sc = 12 Sh = 25. Haven't checked air temp. Suction line was very cool & sweating, which it never did before. Started up nice and quiet. Amps dropped to 50. Sounds much better. Thanks again for all the help. Oh by the way this was my first semi-hermetic changeout - and my first comp changeout above a 5 ton.
oh boy...... troubles abound
Sight glass was very dark. Could see no oil, although it had a good bit?..I drained and replaced with 115 oz to specs
If it is an 06D did you check the oil level. I have read (never experienced it) that a high oil level can cause increased amp draw on the semihermetic because the crank is sumerging in it. A high oil level could also have caused the compressor to bust something interally. Does anyone else see this as possible? Again I have never run into it yet myself.
As stated earlier, my very first call (when it was still cooling) was a noise problem. And it's gone downhill since. I'm headed out today, thanks. Oh and being my pressures look good I have no reason to suspect a bad txv, right?
Originally Posted by tonydykes55 Trips within a few seconds. Wont run long enough to get sc & sh. Tenfirst time i cut it on with new charge it ran maybe a minute or so - the pressures looked good for the time it was running - suc 75 Head 250. But it was loud. The valves sound like theyre gone - clattering. I plan on ordering a rebuilt comp tomorrow. Comes with full warranty. I even changed the oil today. Got to be bad compressor valves. Well, keep us informed about the new compressor. I take it you heard the same noise initially, when you would reset the compressor, and it would run for a day, right? Or is the noise new? Did the suction line temp drop when it ran, and did the space cool for the 24 hours or so when it would run?
Wow
Trips within a few seconds. Wont run long enough to get sc & sh. Tenfirst time i cut it on with new charge it ran maybe a minute or so - the pressures looked good for the time it was running - suc 75 Head 250. But it was loud. The valves sound like theyre gone - clattering. I plan on ordering a rebuilt comp tomorrow. Comes with full warranty. I even changed the oil today. Got to be bad compressor valves.
How are the SH and SC numbers? This can tell you what the refrigerant is doing.
Sucked it down today. Pulled deep vac. New charge - weighed in nameplate charge exactly. Same symptoms. Valves sound loud. Pulling excessive amps - 90 - 110. Kicking breaker.
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