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Originally Posted by icemeister If it were my job to start up this system, first I'd place a curse on the SOB that neglected to install a sightglass and a head pressure control. Then I'd download the instructions and install them myself and do the startup. Now back to reality............ Can not remember the type of unit I ran into a couple months ago, was a ten door display with an outdoor condenser, did not have a headmaster or receiver and was critically charged to run that way. Was damndest thing I ever heard from a manufacturer but it had been working for 10 years.
Originally Posted by assp8 Just wondering if anyone has a rule of thumb, when starting up an outdoor walkin box with an air cooled condenser what your head pressure should be corresponding to the outdoor air temp? Charge it to 90% of receiver capacity of the refrigerant it's designed to use. Since no headmaster you better add a fan delay.
Well; with Purpose. <g> Originally Posted by ksefan Damn Mikey, 2007?
Damn Mikey, 2007?
Below 10 would have me looking for 'something' - as would anything much over 20. And 25 to 30+ would have me staying onsite doing the startup until I found it. <g> Why do you ask? PHM ----- Originally Posted by assp8 Just wondering if anyone has a rule of thumb, when starting up an outdoor walkin box with an air cooled condenser what your head pressure should be corresponding to the outdoor air temp?
I guess I haven't been getting out enough. Now that you made me think about it; no one has asked me 'what the hell happened to your arms!' for a good while - and when I looked just now I can see that they are all pretty well healed. I always tried to put aloe on them. Kept a few bottles right in the truck. One is still in there, next to the toilet tissue, but I haven't need it, or the toilet tissue for that matter, any time recently. PHM ------- Originally Posted by jasond1011 run the box about 45 minutes . have him put the sweet meat on the bottom of his arm halfway between the wrist and the elbow on the hot gas discharge line. if the skin sticks to the pipe or sizzles nicely you be charged. I think we are all like that kung fu guy. every real ref man has a nice scar in about that spot where he had those tatoos
have the original installer come back and test this way run the box about 45 minutes . have him put the sweet meat on the bottom of his arm halfway between the wrist and the elbow on the hot gas discharge line. if the skin sticks to the pipe or sizzles nicely you be charged. I think we are all like that kung fu guy. every real ref man has a nice scar in about that spot where he had those tatoos
have the original installer come back and test this way
No one wants to say it eh? Your saturated condensing temperature will fall between 15 and 30 degrees over the ambient temp. On most refer equipment it will fall in the 20 to 25 range with the 30 being the top of the scale when I worry about it. 90 outside = 125 maximum saturated condensing temp, if higher, find the problem and fix cause your gonna smoke a valve or two if you let it go.
No one wants to say it eh?
Yes they send information on any additional charge to add for lengthy linesets and it tells you total equivalent feet. It tells you 80 receiver capacity. It doesnt come out an say this system holds XX pounds. If I remeber correctly the stubs out of the unit are good for 100 Total Equivalent feet.
I have never installed a outdoor walk in. Does the mfg. send you some type of guide to what charge would be adequate to how much copper you have down?I mean - if the remote unit was further away from the box than the norm.?
they are too cheap to provide the ref. instead you get dry nitrogen
Yeah, I wondered -- it makes sense due to different run lenths- I think they should have a scale plate.
Hypothetically???......... Originally Posted by assp8 Not to be a pain but, hypothetacally speaking, what if there were no sight glass or installation instructions? No head master controll either...??? If it were my job to start up this system, first I'd place a curse on the SOB that neglected to install a sightglass and a head pressure control. Then I'd download the instructions and install them myself and do the startup. Now back to reality............
Hypothetically???.........
need help with heat controller 90% ( roll out fault) i did a call for a friend, also self employed, but only installs. he put in a heat controllerglua or gldh 120.000 btu. flashing rollout, reset, unit put in 1-month ago, place is gutted, unit in attic. guy owns place says it never worked right. they called me back tonite same thing. i read install instructions, furnace mounted horizontal to right discharge, but on instructions it says important, do no not install horizontal right only left side supply. drain from secondary exchanger was left as if installed upright, drain from secondary is on very top left side. secondary drain is not at bottom of burner area, where the install instructions say when horizontial install only can be install with left side supply. the roll out thats popping is bottom one in horizontial position, inducer motor is below secodary x-changer, could this be the cause of rollout, bottom 2 burners in secondary have water creating cloogged xchanger causing rollout. al,ost all my work over last 21 years has been heat pumps, and 80% furnaces. thanks hope you can understand post, in a rush
need help with heat controller 90% ( roll out fault)
Originally Posted by luskys a/c I would definitly charge it in the morning and the condensing station should have a data plate that states the correct charge being that it is a new unit. When the sun is high and the temp is boiling -- getting a correct reading is a bastard-- Most condensing units Ref. wise do not have a weight stamp on it
Originally Posted by assp8 Not to be a pain but, hypothetacally speaking, what if there were no sight glass or installation instructions? No head master controll either...??? It would depend on the type of refrigerant, outside temperature, load conditions, and the size of the condenser in relation to compressor capacity. That's about all I can tell you without specifics. Oh and...unless you live in a very warm climate you need some type of head pressure control.
I would definitly charge it in the morning and the condensing station should have a data plate that states the correct charge being that it is a new unit. When the sun is high and the temp is boiling -- getting a correct reading is a bastard--
What refrigerant?
What is your outdoor ambient? Must have some type of fan cycle control.
Not to be a pain but, hypothetacally speaking, what if there were no sight glass or installation instructions? No head master controll either...???
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