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Sounds like nad thickness control it grounds the board out to start harvest water running over it in freeze sould make the red led flash during freeze until it makes contact for 10 secs then starts har est solid red led if no flashing during freeze bad control
just for S--ts and giggles, take the clean-ice switch out and turn it upside down. Then try the machine. Those switches go bad also and makes one think the board is bad.
So I pulled the board again and cleaned the crap out of it. Nothing new. Something I noticed is that I can get 3 cycles out of it if I unplug it for a while before turning it on before the harvest light starts coming on. Just an observation.
Sorry for the delay guys and appreciate all the good pointers, advice, tips . . . Here is a summary of what's happening on my end of this thread along with updates, answers. 1. Yes the polarity from the supply power is correct. 2. I cleaned every spot of the board that I could reach with 91% rubbing alcohol prior to plugging it in once I got it in the garage. There are still places on the board that I can not access with out removing components. 3. After removing the relays I re scrubbed the board with alcohol because the areas under the relays were still dirty before replacing them. This is a 2 sided control board 4. After replacing the relays the machine did the same exact thing as before 5. Last night it ran 3 cycles with no problems. Most of the time it just runs it's first cycle and then on #2 the harvest light comes on from the beginning of the cycle regardless of weather or not the ice probe is connected. 6. (AFTER UNPLUGGING for a while) During the first cycle the ice probe functions correctly. I can touch my finger to it and the harvest light comes on, I remove my finger and the light goes off. 6a. (If I just turn it off and then back on) The harvest light comes on at the beginning of the first cycle but it runs long enough to make ice. 7. Thanks again guys. 8. I'm thinking I may have not cleaned the board well enough and still have contamination somewhere on it. I just pulled the board again and cleaned it with some contact cleaner and alcohol. Will let you know what happens. Walt
I fixed a board last month for a buddy with a hot tub. Lightening strike last summer. It blew one of the traces clean off the board. It went to one of the relays for heater. Its got 2 relays where each one supplies 120 leg to heater , total 240. One of the relays still worked , and the other relay was damaged along with the missing trace , so I made a jumper with inline fuse and bridged the trace to give it 120 volts all the time , and when the other relay kicked in it would have 240. Been working great.
This just a Guess and you may have already checked but do you have a good true ground and is your polarity rite?
Once you determine the coil terminals for the relays (you can see which terminal leads to an IC output for that, and which leads to a common bus) you can determine if the output is connect for the desired function. You can also see if there is a problem with the ice probe input on the board. Is the IC input getting energized from an adjacent trace? That's why you would want to clean the board, as suggested above, and closely inspect the traces. If there is no input to the IC from the ice probe trace, and yet, the LED is lit, the IC microprocessor may be toast. If nothing else, this will get you to be more familiar with boards in general.
Looking at a Manitowoc J/Q-Series control board (25-1130-3), the output relays appear to be this one, available for under 3 bucks at Mouser Electronics: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...52blt2eEjTY%3d
if this was still plugged while submerged , problem may be hidden in a chip or cap or resistor , or who the hell knows Never hurts to try replacing what you can tho Take magnifying glass and look at each solder joint for cracks
Just wanted updates on this....good stuff.
Originally Posted by kirkH I've had some luck over the years cleaning boards with distilled water and a toothbrush. All it takes is a little crust or whatnot to short across a couple traces. If it was underwater it may have some dried up residue. It's worked more than once for me. I agree.
I've had some luck over the years cleaning boards with distilled water and a toothbrush. All it takes is a little crust or whatnot to short across a couple traces. If it was underwater it may have some dried up residue. It's worked more than once for me.
Originally Posted by wobiii No change at all, same problem. Even with the ice probe disconnected. Stubborn guy that I am, I would start looking at the board starting with the harvest probe connection.
love the beer
No change, same problem with the red harvest light even with the ice probe unplugged. No change at all, same problem. Even with the ice probe disconnected.
No change, same problem with the red harvest light even with the ice probe unplugged.
Ok have all relays replaced, not really sure of the condition of every one of them but had enough laying around to replace them. Had one that was rusted to pieced on the inside. So I just reinstalled the board and it's still in its first cycle. Will let you all know in a few what happens. Regardless, thank everyone of you for the help so far. Walt
Maybe this will help...
First, I would make sure that the ice probe is nice and clean. If the problem is still there then I would probably substitute that number 3 relay mentioned above. Microrelays are not designed to be submerged so you might want to pull the covers off of each one to make sure they're clean and dry inside. You can use contact cleaner to clean out the inside
Originally Posted by Tommy knocker If you got a relay and wanna try nothing to lose but time. Spend enough time trying to fix it and and you could end up loosing money over just replacing it. That's why service companies rarely mess with it. Thanks and understand the advise but it's a garage project now in my garage so it'll just be drinking beer trying to fix a board learning experience time anyway. I would never do this for a customer because I couldn't guarantee it and the liability that it brings. Best price I could find on a board was 600, so that's a good bit of messing around time.
If you got a relay and wanna try nothing to lose but time. Spend enough time trying to fix it and and you could end up loosing money over just replacing it. That's why service companies rarely mess with it.
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