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Topic Review (Newest First)

  • 02-06-2013, 01:06 PM
    jim bergmann
    Couple more things,

    When the core tools are isolated you are looking at leak rate, when open it is really pull down rate. Pull down is negative, rise is positive.

    Cycle your core tools during pull down. A small amount of gas/air gets trapped in the valve packing. This will minimize the initial rise when you isolate the hoses.

    Leak rate is in microns/second. If you multiply the leak rate x 60 seconds/min x 10 minutes you can get the approximate rise after 10 minutes. Under 500 is acceptable. at a leak rate of .2 microns/second that would rise 120 microns over 10 minutes.

    The calibration of the FP and theBluvac were very close at low vacuum. It is typical for the Bluvac to be faster simply due to the technology used. They also may have different calibration points. Maybe one at 500 microns and one at 250. I am not sure. But I have seen a lot of different vacuum gauges do not agree until they are in a deeper vacuum.

    Glad I could help.

    Jim
  • 02-06-2013, 12:14 AM
    engineerdave
    After wiping the egg off my face, had to put just one more video up....

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNvnA...XpyYgw&index=1
  • 02-04-2013, 08:29 PM
    jim bergmann
    Dave,
    I noticed several things.

    You need to be able to isolate all of the hoses completely from the system when pulling a vacuum. You need core tools and a brass connector to isolate your vacuum gauge. All hoses, even Appion hoses leak. They just leak at a lower leak rate then standard hoses.

    All connections leak, again it is the leak rate that matters.

    The recovery tank valves my not be rated for vacuum. Make sure that the valve is completely back seated. The packing might be leaking. I see that a lot. Try an empty refrigerant cylinder, they are a lot less likely to leak.

    There is nothing wrong with using the vacuum rated manifold, it allows for several more connections if you are working on a commercial system. It is a must have for very large systems to get the required flow from a larger pump. For residential systems, a simple brass tee will do.

    Read through this vacuum primer before you throw in the towel, you are making a few simple mistakes, I know the information here will help. If you have questions, PM me with a phone number to help.

    http://www.trutechtools.com/Vacuum-Training_c_1100.html
  • 02-04-2013, 08:15 PM
    Chuck
    Yes, especially if you just got done doing a 600 psi nitro test!
    Quote Originally Posted by Pascone10 View Post
    Also when you close a ball valve there is believe it or not an area where a higher pressure is stuck until you close the valve. IF you close the ball valve or you CRT you usually can hear the air if it was sitting in the truck awhile..
  • 02-04-2013, 06:57 PM
    Pascone10
    Also when you close a ball valve there is believe it or not an area where a higher pressure is stuck until you close the valve. IF you close the ball valve or you CRT you usually can hear the air if it was sitting in the truck awhile..
  • 02-04-2013, 06:15 PM
    jnsrose
    Quote Originally Posted by acguytx View Post
    I have been noticing similar issues last season with my dvn22 micron gauge . i actually use the 3/8 hose directly from vac pump to suction side of condenser valve with appion core tool hooked up, then the micron gauge hooked directly to another appion core tool on high side of condenser

    So after reaching desired micron reading i close ball valve on suction side and wait.. all seems fine but after i then close ball valve on micron gauge core tool it immediately rises and fast,, makes me think theres a leak in the micron gauge..

    I spoke in depth to aJB engineer at the expo about this and he says he doesnt think theres anything wrong with gauge long as it doesnt rise past 9000/1(whatever that means in English ) and says its normal for some rise due to moisture etc just like a system/.

    im not sure i believe him but this thread along with my issues is making me not trust this micron gauge and others ive owned in the past.

    feedback?? letys continue this conversation as it can help a lot in the field..the good thing is he told me to test with a tank like this thread suggests and see what the actual rise stops at, if i still feel its faulty he promised to pay for me to send it back and they will re calibrate and test for free even if its out of warranty..
    My JB does the same thing when valved off by itself. Works great. Had it for years still kept in its original plastic case inside a meter bag. I think it goes back to once you valve it off by itself there is too little volume in the core tool and gauge to hold a vacuum.
  • 02-04-2013, 10:16 AM
    billg
    I would like to know what would possess someone to buy a manifold like that. What purpose do the gauges serve in a deep vacuum? Can you take them back?
  • 02-04-2013, 10:13 AM
    acguytx
    I have been noticing similar issues last season with my dvn22 micron gauge . i actually use the 3/8 hose directly from vac pump to suction side of condenser valve with appion core tool hooked up, then the micron gauge hooked directly to another appion core tool on high side of condenser

    So after reaching desired micron reading i close ball valve on suction side and wait.. all seems fine but after i then close ball valve on micron gauge core tool it immediately rises and fast,, makes me think theres a leak in the micron gauge..

    I spoke in depth to aJB engineer at the expo about this and he says he doesnt think theres anything wrong with gauge long as it doesnt rise past 9000/1(whatever that means in English ) and says its normal for some rise due to moisture etc just like a system/.

    im not sure i believe him but this thread along with my issues is making me not trust this micron gauge and others ive owned in the past.

    feedback?? letys continue this conversation as it can help a lot in the field..the good thing is he told me to test with a tank like this thread suggests and see what the actual rise stops at, if i still feel its faulty he promised to pay for me to send it back and they will re calibrate and test for free even if its out of warranty..
  • 02-04-2013, 09:50 AM
    kamersoutdoor
    I noticed in the first video is that you are valving from from the manifold and keeping the hoses in the system. Permeation from the hoses is what is killing you! You should be valving the tanks off!
    I also noticed that something is amiss with the time it took to reach your desired vac. I would think to start with your pump.


    sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note
  • 02-04-2013, 07:23 AM
    itsiceman
    Dave before I watch are you still trying to hold a vacuum with hoses in the circuit?
  • 02-04-2013, 12:02 AM
    engineerdave
    So I hooked the whole rig up to two Recovery Cylinders and ran the test again.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-07hkOuuBo

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zRJuf8gofG0

    Then I went and watched the Super Bowl. When I came back, over 10,000 microns.

    And for the record, I've decide the iPhone makes better videos. These videos are done on the Android and they suck pretty bad.
  • 02-03-2013, 12:21 PM
    Pascone10
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idWheO5bogQ

    Last one

    This is one relates to your issue the most.. After I allowed the pump to run for an adequate amount of time the micron reading did not rise as high. (above 1500 microns)
  • 02-03-2013, 12:19 PM
    Pascone10
  • 02-03-2013, 12:16 PM
    Pascone10
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_6iOKzAuDA

    Check out my crappy vid. It will give you some info and show you a few popular Gauges installed on the same system..
  • 02-03-2013, 11:15 AM
    ryan1088
    Quote Originally Posted by mark beiser View Post
    No, I've been using a Yellow Jacket 69075, and vacuum tree, since 2007, haven't seen the need to buy a new vacuum gauge.

    I do wish my 13 year old vacuum pump would die, so I'd have an excuse to make my boss buy me a TEZ8 though.
    We could probably arrange the death of your pump....for the right price.
  • 02-03-2013, 10:44 AM
    mark beiser
    Quote Originally Posted by itsiceman View Post
    Mark do you have a BluVac? He would have to eliminate everything there
    No, I've been using a Yellow Jacket 69075, and vacuum tree, since 2007, haven't seen the need to buy a new vacuum gauge.

    I do wish my 13 year old vacuum pump would die, so I'd have an excuse to make my boss buy me a TEZ8 though.
  • 02-03-2013, 10:25 AM
    billg
    What is the purpose of a manifold like that when a simple tee will do? You should have valves at the service ports that can be used to isolate the system and vacuum gauge from the pump and hoses. Seems to me you are just adding leak points unnecessarily.
  • 02-03-2013, 10:05 AM
    itsiceman
    Quote Originally Posted by mark beiser View Post
    You have a lot of stuff connected there, try eliminating things until you find what is leaking.
    Mark do you have a BluVac? He would have to eliminate everything there
  • 02-03-2013, 10:03 AM
    itsiceman
    Not going to happen. Bigger hoses and better quality stuff is going to speed things up IMO. If someone finds hoses that will hold a vacuum that would be a great find. I might feel remorse from the manifold purchase but you shouldn't with the hoses. If you didn't have bigger ones already it is going to speed up the job. If you rig your rig for isolation of the hoses, manifold and pump on a real system you should be much happier with what you have there. If you plan on following the "rules" to the letter you will be happier listening to the pump. If you know your pump I believe its a good indication of how you're doing. Start on a MO system then go to a poe system if you want to be disappointed again
  • 02-03-2013, 10:01 AM
    mark beiser
    You have a lot of stuff connected there, try eliminating things until you find what is leaking.
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