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Originally Posted by jpsmith1cm

Not the first time this particular manufacturer of EXCELLENCE, has screwed me .

cheekie!

Originally Posted by VTP99

Do you know what new ballast there putting in ?

Nope.

As I mentioned in the first post.

I HATE lighting work.

If the lights are ON, I'm a happy guy. I have almost zero professional curiosity about it.

Do you know what new ballast there putting in ?

Originally Posted by icemeister

...and this admission of course, came long after the standard reply, "It's never happened before."

When we service hundreds of stores with thousands of their cases installed, they cannot get away with that load of bull squitter.

They had a guy running around with the correct ones in his truck, tucking problem children into bed.

...and this admission of course, came long after the standard reply, "It's never happened before."

I hope this problem child will stay in bed for you now!

Guys,

I FINALLY got an answer to this problem and wanted to here and let you all know.

The manufacturer installed the WRONG ballast at the factory.

Not the first time this particular manufacturer of EXCELLENCE, has screwed me with an OEM error, but it is the first time they've manned up and fixed it on their dime.

Also, there is a huge risk for electric shock by touching the metal of the refrigerator cabinet, as you are providing a new route for current to flow.

If the equipment is installed incorrect, yes. This is why equipment must be grounded.

As I assume you know, transformers use a iron core wrapped in wire to step down or step up voltage. The load is never physically attached to the line on the transformer, but uses a magnetic field to carry the power across it.

Don't assume. Ballasts are dangerous, because they usually use a autotransformer design with no isolation. This means that you can get shocked from just touching one lead.

Being pulled in after multiple ballast replacements, this may well have been the problem.

The yellow lead ran to ground, so I tied it together.

I don't know what happened to my post yesterday, BUT the Neutral (Yellow Wire) should NEVER EVER go to ground except at the service equipment. If the ballast is attached to the metal chassis, then there is no need to ground it. It should be connected to ground going back to the service panel. You having the yellow wires grounded is more than likely your problem as these guys stated.

By grounding the yellow wire, you are feeding the transformers inside the ballasts power, but they are not getting a return current which is possibly frying them (transformer) cause the current is flowing to the path of least resistance (which would be the chassis or case). Also, there is a huge risk for electric shock by touching the metal of the refrigerator cabinet, as you are providing a new route for current to flow. As I assume you know, transformers use a iron core wrapped in wire to step down or step up voltage. The load is never physically attached to the line on the transformer, but uses a magnetic field to carry the power across it.

Originally Posted by nateneff

None of the lighting leads (yellow and red) from the ballast should be connected to ground. The metal case of the ballast does need to be grounded though. Maybe the wire containing green was intended to go to the ballast mounting screw?

I sometimes use a volt tic (non contact tester) to check a ballast. When ballast if functional the red blue or yellow wires will set the volt tic off. if not replacing the ballast does the trick.

None of the Fulham wiring diagrams show a grounded lamp lead.

your grounded

None of the lighting leads (yellow and red) from the ballast should be connected to ground. The metal case of the ballast does need to be grounded though. Maybe the wire containing green was intended to go to the ballast mounting screw?

I sometimes use a volt tic (non contact tester) to check a ballast. When ballast if functional the red blue or yellow wires will set the volt tic off. if not replacing the ballast does the trick.

This is actually how the ballast is wired.

Not sure if it makes a difference.

Heres how the wiring should look:



If that is all correct and you installed 4 brand new tombstones, then like I said, I would assume it's a line issue.

Unless you are using bulbs that exceed the Ballasts Max Wattage of 70Watts
That's why I was curious as to what F value bulbs you were using.

The problem is:

A: Line Issue
B: You are exceeding your ballast wattage by using too high wattage of bulbs. Which explains why only one bulb is staying lit and the other is going out.

Are you positive it's a 120V circuit and not a 277V?

The number following the f is the wattage of the lamps.

I'd like to believe you have some kind of line issue. If I'm reading your post correctly.

Not exactly sure what all those "F"s mean.

Ballast is a LH4-120 as you mentioned.

Red from ballast splits into 2 wires. Both go to ONE socket on each lamp. Both of the other sockets return on 2 wires and connect to the yellow wire and ground. ***edit***. Each red lead powers one lamp via 2 wires to the same socks end.

Medium temp (35 degrees nominally) case. No misting system, but they do shut lights off at night.

I would consider the water thing if it didn't burn out before the lamps were ever powered off. Should have stayed warm the whole time.

I've go a call out to local H/P rep. This turd belongs to him as far as I'm concerned.

Are you jumpering the sockets? When using two T5 bulbs, you should only be using two red wires and one yellow wire from the ballast.

Is line 120V or 277v also what voltage is ballast? LH4-120-L or LH4-277-L
What is the line voltage reading from your meter without ballast connected?

Are door seals in good shape and sealing properly? Moisture forming on tombstones causing it to short out?

What lamps are you using? F4's, F6's, etc?

What is the operating temp of the case?

I'll call you tomorrow

Originally Posted by Pascone10

Change it to some type of LED fixture..

You won't have to worry about bulbs for 10 years!!

Large corporate customer must approve.

Not happening at this point in time. I've tried, believe me.

Change it to some type of LED fixture..

You won't have to worry about bulbs for 10 years!!