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Topic Review (Newest First)

  • 10-11-2012, 07:53 PM
    Snapperhead
    I think an ice pick shoved thru the copper would be best , then shove cap tube into it

    On the condenser end , cut the suction pipe in half , drill a hole through a coupler , pull cap tube thru pipe , shove through hole in coupler , put coupler in place.

    All theory and sounds easy of course on paper ....
  • 10-11-2012, 07:06 PM
    itsiceman
    FSE_ that's a weird couple of posts. Have you done either of those things with the drill or torch before
  • 10-11-2012, 10:59 AM
    FSE_
    Quote Originally Posted by 2sac View Post
    What about the chance of copper shavings getting into the system and causing another restriction?
    I said drill, but what I would really do is pop a small hole in the suction with my torch
  • 10-11-2012, 10:22 AM
    primmers
    Quote Originally Posted by KB Cool View Post
    Why would he pay you for the compressor when he can go buy another used freezer from auction for cheaper?

    because it was the customers wish to have it replaced..
  • 10-11-2012, 10:08 AM
    itsiceman
    For replacement I've used a tee at either end to route the cap out of the suction instead of drill before. It was such a PITA on one of these with the tight bends in the wall it is much easier and faster to just run a new suction/cap heat exchanger up

    FWIW I believe I saw a small mani ice maker that ran the cap inside the suction
  • 10-11-2012, 09:29 AM
    2sac
    Quote Originally Posted by FSE_ View Post
    Another way without penetrating the box: Drill a hole in the suction line by the evaporator. Cut the suction line by the condensing unit. Feed the cap. tube down the suction line. Solder it all back together. New cap tube, better subcooling and no penetration through the box.
    What about the chance of copper shavings getting into the system and causing another restriction?
  • 10-11-2012, 07:45 AM
    hydra
    Quote Originally Posted by FSE_ View Post
    Another way without penetrating the box: Drill a hole in the suction line by the evaporator. Cut the suction line by the condensing unit. Feed the cap. tube down the suction line. Solder it all back together. New cap tube, better subcooling and no penetration through the box.
    Some vending machine manufacturers do that from the factory. Definitely get good sub cooling that way!
  • 10-11-2012, 12:01 AM
    Royal241
    Quote Originally Posted by FSE_ View Post
    Another way without penetrating the box: Drill a hole in the suction line by the evaporator. Cut the suction line by the condensing unit. Feed the cap. tube down the suction line. Solder it all back together. New cap tube, better subcooling and no penetration through the box.
    I've never imagined that, but WOW, you must be an smart old man! I like your idea, not for this specific app, but this will be of good use when time calls. I like to make that hole in the wall and run with it. Nevertheless, I like your imagination, that's what I call engineering!
  • 10-10-2012, 10:41 PM
    Snapperhead
    Quote Originally Posted by primmers View Post
    after i did the work i told the customer
    to never call ME again on this pile!
    Oh we've all had units gone bad and were married to until it worked right. I can think of a few
    I hope I never hear about again ....
  • 10-10-2012, 09:55 PM
    KB Cool
    Quote Originally Posted by primmers View Post
    heres an update..today i went back to the case,i took a turner torch and heated up the cap tube going into the evaporator and around the sleeve...it still ran in a vacuum..so i cut the sleeve out, and psi tested the cap tube both ways..it blew clear..so i reassembled it, pulled a vacuum and recharged it..its running.
    i told the customer that was a freebee..but left him the invoice for the original compressor install...im going to light some candles at a catholic church for this thing, at least until i get paid..
    Why would he pay you for the compressor when he can go buy another used freezer from auction for cheaper?
  • 10-10-2012, 04:23 PM
    primmers
    heres an update..today i went back to the case,i took a turner torch and heated up the cap tube going into the evaporator and around the sleeve...it still ran in a vacuum..so i cut the sleeve out, and psi tested the cap tube both ways..it blew clear..so i reassembled it, pulled a vacuum and recharged it..its running.
    i told the customer that was a freebee..but left him the invoice for the original compressor install...im going to light some candles at a catholic church for this thing, at least until i get paid..
  • 10-10-2012, 01:00 PM
    FSE_
    Quote Originally Posted by trippintl0 View Post
    We typically run a new cap tube up the back wall, drill a hole through the box, and then silicone the penetration afterwards, its actually not too bad. I've done it on several True's but never on a TurboAir.

    Another way without penetrating the box: Drill a hole in the suction line by the evaporator. Cut the suction line by the condensing unit. Feed the cap. tube down the suction line. Solder it all back together. New cap tube, better subcooling and no penetration through the box.
  • 10-08-2012, 06:14 PM
    itsiceman
    So they are trying to make one size fits all cabinets and bolt on specific C/U's ? ....... Good Grief
  • 10-08-2012, 06:13 PM
    primmers
    thanks icemeister..and 76olds, ill buy the unit from my customer before going through all that...
  • 10-08-2012, 05:48 PM
    76olds
    Quote Originally Posted by primmers View Post
    is there two different sized cap tubes and this is the reason for the "sleeve?

    can i get a link to the above??
    According to this:

    http://www.turboairinc.com/Refrigera...sureChart.aspx

    It looks like the length that runs through the box ( I believe 90.55 is the length, unable to find any info from our last battle with a TA freezer) is the same id, but the length and id before the sleeve varies depending on the compressor.

    The 3 door TA freezer(tsf-72d) that gave my boss all sorts of trouble earlier in the year ended up getting a TXV and a receiver (then we found the defrost heater would intermittanty stick on due to a bad board and may have worked with changing the cap tube from the drier to the sleeve).


    Now, I did not care for mounting the sensing bulb to the accumulator, and had to play with the superheat due to excessive txv hunting but,knock on wood, it has been working well.

    I have been unable to find any of our notes regarding cap tube sizing or txv info due to someone "just being a little bit cranky" due to all the unbillable hours wasted on this thing.

    You might be able to find the cap tube size from the "order online" section and run a new suction line/cap tube up over the top of the box into the evap area.

    Good luck.
  • 10-08-2012, 04:05 PM
    icemeister
    For what it's worth, here's the manual for the TSF:

    Turbo Air TSF Service Manual
  • 10-08-2012, 03:05 PM
    primmers
    no, im working on a up right reach in freezer tsf-49sd/bk4f0302

    i talked to a chic this am at turbo air, she said to blow it out, i laughed and asked to be connected to parts..
    i listended to elevator music for 10+ minutes and hung up..

    also i did change the cap tube from the filter to the "sleeve" some time ago..that part is clear, its warm, where its cool it from the sleeve foreward
    to the ice ball at the evaporator..
  • 10-08-2012, 02:57 PM
    itsiceman
    Well shoot if it a small under counter what is the problem with changing it
    I thought it was an upright where they get foamed in the whole way
  • 10-08-2012, 02:30 PM
    icemeister
    Quote Originally Posted by primmers View Post
    is there two different sized cap tubes and this is the reason for the "sleeve?

    can i get a link to the above??
    I don't know about the sizing of the cap tubes, but here's that manual:

    Attachment 316031
  • 10-08-2012, 12:14 PM
    primmers
    is there two different sized cap tubes and this is the reason for the "sleeve?

    can i get a link to the above??
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