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Originally Posted by soaker

www.jonesvalve.com

I put a clear ptrap directly out of the coil then on the other side of the trap i use a T with a cap on top higher than the coil drain. After the trap i install a regular pvc ball valve. The theory is that you can close the valve and blow out the trap through the capped t and line into the coil then open the valve to let it flow again. The jones valve is a great idea and would need to be installed between the coil and trap to make it useful but the cost of 15-20$ a piece makes me not want to buy it when a regular valve and the way i set it up cost me about 5$. Besides i have never had a condensate line clog after the trap so a two valve has not been of any use in my market. I will try to get a pic to show you how i setup my drains.

Any opinions on this for clearing drains?

Originally Posted by Barrettservices

We dont have humidity issues in norcal so i have never seen them falsely activate and ive installed hundreds to date.

I do love the clear schedule 40 ptraps they are now selling. Very quick visual to see if its clogged or not so i dont have to lug my nitro into the attic as much.

www.jonesvalve.com

Originally Posted by Cbssteve

What about an EZ-trap. It gives you a few of those red caps and a brush. If you line them up, you can poke the brush right to the front port of the coil drain. Also, anybody ever have the wet switch "hockey puck" get a little condensation under them and light up red. I had two of them do that this year, and there was not a drop of water in either pan, just a little wet under the fuzz of the hockey puck.

We dont have humidity issues in norcal so i have never seen them falsely activate and ive installed hundreds to date.

I do love the clear schedule 40 ptraps they are now selling. Very quick visual to see if its clogged or not so i dont have to lug my nitro into the attic as much.

Most of the problems with a standard switch is the pan will fill completely with water before the switch is activated.

In some cases, if the pan is not perfectly level and supported under every inch, the pan will fill up and before the switch cuts off the unit, it starts leaking from the corner that is the lowest point.

I use only the switches that sit in the pan,( hockey puck style) and not the ones that mount on the side, just to be safe, and I have never had one overflow on me.

One thing I do though is to put 2 small strips of rubber adhered to one side the switch,so there is a slight gap in between the switch and the pan.

I used those years ago in florida but had the same problem with humidity in attic setting it off. Have you seen the jones valve www.jonesvalve.com or Easy klear?
What do you think of these.

What about an EZ-trap. It gives you a few of those red caps and a brush. If you line them up, you can poke the brush right to the front port of the coil drain. Also, anybody ever have the wet switch "hockey puck" get a little condensation under them and light up red. I had two of them do that this year, and there was not a drop of water in either pan, just a little wet under the fuzz of the hockey puck.

Do you install anything in the drain line for access to clear the line or add chemicals?

I use the the diversitech wet switches (hockey puck) that sit in the pan. All it takes is a couple of drops of water in the pan so even if the pan is not level this sensor will be set off way before it overflows so No need for two. They are a little pricey at 30$ each but cheap insurance.

A lot of times I install an open T right at the outlet of the trap. I just put a piece of pipe in it without gluing it & make sure its higher than the drain pan. I've never had a leak even with a clog that was passed the trap. It serves three purposes.
1 - I have a vent after the trap in case the line droops where I can't get to it & double traps.
2 - I can visually see which side of the trap my clog is on.
3 - I can pull out the stub & clean either side of the drain by plugging up one side of the T with a small rag or plastic.
If you have access to the drain termination outside I don't see any reason for any code that would make you have an access inside.
Maybe the code is for drains that do not solely terminate in an open accessible place or common drains that tie into a larger pipe that serves more than one unit. That would make more sense.

Something I have seen... I would NOT do this: Is to dry-fit a coupling just outside the coil... then seal it with a piece of foil tape. If one carefully does the tape... it will not leak.

Personally... too much chance for someone to bump it later and break the tape.

One can always open the coil and blow from the pan...

Lets see what this new code says... and how it is interpreted. Each state is different... I hope GA (state, not me) does not go here for a while.

I prefer to put in a PVC union before the p-trap as ga-hvac-tech suggested. It allows us to clear the line without cutting it. Cutting and gluing it multiple times is just begging for a leak. Some techs just dry fit the joint together to avoid doing it again the next time, I've seen a number of leaks from those after someone bumped the drain line. I've never had a leak from a glued PVC union. The union also allows you to check the line back to the drain pan.

I am not sure if unions would be allowed as it is taking apart the line. I believe it will need to be a fixed glued in device like a ball valve with a port. Not sure about it yet.

Originally Posted by soaker

I heard there will be a new IMC code requiring the drain line to be configured to allow the clearing of the drain line without having to cut the drain line for all future service.
What products would you use to accomplish this? Jones valve, Easy Klear or what?

Have not seen that code yet... does not mean it is not there... just I have not seen it yet.

If this is indeed code... then I am thinking a PVC union (Lowes has them, as well some supply houses), in the drain as close to the coil as reasonable. Just open the union and blow it out.

Condensate Cleanout Code

Originally Posted by ga-hvac-tech

I use a float switch that screws into the secondary coil drain... IMO to stop the water BEFORE it overflows the coil pan is the first line of defense.

If the unit is anywhere other than on a concrete floor, it gets a pan float switch also.

The condensate pump ALWAYS goes IN the pan, and the switch in the condensate pump is always wired in.

If the install is an 80% furnace (most are in my area), then I break the Y... If it is a condensing furnace, then I break R.

And I always install a T in the coil drain... it gets flushed each spring.

So far, so good... in 10 years NO sheetrock repairs. NEVER have made a claim on my G/Liab policy... lets see if I get to continue this way.

I heard there will be a new IMC code requiring the drain line to be configured to allow the clearing of the drain line without having to cut the drain line for all future service.
What products would you use to accomplish this? Jones valve, Easy Klear or what?

Originally Posted by ga-hvac-tech

This is tacky... however: AMAZING how 'smart' (not) some folks are... I hope he did not try to go after you... Good paperwork (documentation you suggested the safety switch) is a good thing!

Waivers are a wonderful thing.

Originally Posted by Tony3696

My "This is why you should listen to us & do your yearly maintenance" Speech...
I went to a beautiful house with hand painted murals on the walls & ceiling for a first time maintenance on an 8 year old Spacepak. I quoted a wet switch, new primary pan, and an emergency pan (it didn't have one). The guy said "Naa, it's been fine this long, I just had you guys come out to shut the wife up." The drain primary drain pan was so badly rusted I was afraid to touch it. He paid 10k for the mural & it took the guy almost a year to complete. I told him that it was cheap insurance keep the wife quiet. 3 weeks later I go back on a water leaking call. Half the ceiling was on the floor. Sometimes I told you so just doesn't cut it. (The wife was crying in the bedroom) The guy wouldn't leave so I could take a picture.....

This is tacky... however: AMAZING how 'smart' (not) some folks are... I hope he did not try to go after you... Good paperwork (documentation you suggested the safety switch) is a good thing!

Originally Posted by WhoIsThat?

Yes. Is this average or exceptional for contractors like yourself? It sounds good to me but I don't know what to compare it to.
If most contractors go 40 years without a single claim this is not so exceptional, but I don't know. I guess you could survey contractors on this site and ask.

It is called taking pride in your work. In my area (and I believe this is true everywhere)... there are contractors who take personal pride in their work; every job is done as if it were their own house or their parents house. Then there are contractors who are only in it for the $$$... and do the least they can get by with. Care to guess which ones have FEW if ANY issues... and which ones have ENDLESS issues? Hint: Statistics have little if anything to do with it.

Originally Posted by kw10925

I see everybogys point with the switches. You can't foresee a block of ice if the unit has a problem due to system malfuntion or a era on a homeowner who doesnt do annual maintainance.

My "This is why you should listen to us & do your yearly maintenance" Speech...
I went to a beautiful house with hand painted murals on the walls & ceiling for a first time maintenance on an 8 year old Spacepak. I quoted a wet switch, new primary pan, and an emergency pan (it didn't have one). The guy said "Naa, it's been fine this long, I just had you guys come out to shut the wife up." The drain primary drain pan was so badly rusted I was afraid to touch it. He paid 10k for the mural & it took the guy almost a year to complete. I told him that it was cheap insurance keep the wife quiet. 3 weeks later I go back on a water leaking call. Half the ceiling was on the floor. Sometimes I told you so just doesn't cut it. (The wife was crying in the bedroom) The guy wouldn't leave so I could take a picture.....

I see everybogys point with the switches. You can't foresee a block of ice if the unit has a problem due to system malfuntion or a era on a homeowner who doesnt do annual maintainance.

Originally Posted by ga-hvac-tech

NO claims against my policy, and NO customers who have water damage from a system I installed.

Yes. Is this average or exceptional for contractors like yourself? It sounds good to me but I don't know what to compare it to.
If most contractors go 40 years without a single claim this is not so exceptional, but I don't know. I guess you could survey contractors on this site and ask.