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Originally Posted by itsiceman

creepy

AW ' ....... HES So LOVEABLE ' AND CUDDLEY

creepy

Originally Posted by itaintme

here it is

[img=http://imageshack.us/scaled/large/513/zdd9.jpg]

http://imageshack.us/a/img513/9292/zdd9.jpg

Originally Posted by itsiceman

WTH

here it is

[img=http://imageshack.us/scaled/large/513/zdd9.jpg]

Originally Posted by itaintme

my Vanilla Gorilla

WTH

I just looked at a picture of the AK 900. Still appears to be based on the same building block, though. That piece to me looks like cast brass.

That thing cracked like die cast zinc. I wonder if that was roughed in and casted, then shaved, like how many brass plumbing components are made.

Originally Posted by itsiceman

Piston? It's a ball valve.

i was wondering the same thing, my Vanilla Gorilla

Piston? It's a ball valve.

Originally Posted by hvac wiz 79

Here's where mine was leaking from .. I've never exerted to much force either . .

Haven't fixed it yet I need to though as the manifolds I have laying around do not line up and I hate the look with the angled fittings. Besides this I've had the issue of refrigerant bypassing the low side ball valve. Anyone know the point of the brass washer looking thing inside the area where the nut in the picture is?

Sent from my SGH-T999L using Tapatalk 4

Is that the piston rod? I would like to see the piston rod and a closeup of the bore?

I had to do this repair. My inner teflon seal failed and was blocking the lowside valve so no refrigerant would pass by the valve.

Take out the hex keyed bolt from the side of the manifold. You will see a little brass plug. Let that drop out the end and then you will see the outer seal.

Take a pick, like a dental pick or those cheap ones you can get at harbor freight and pull it out. A 120 degree hook pick works best. It will damage the seal so dont do this for fun, just when you need to replace them.

Then pull off the knob from the front and under it is a 6 point bolt that can be removed. Wrench that puppy out of there and pull the whole assembly out.

The ball part of the valve is under that assembly. Use the pick to guide the ball and drop it out the side, where the hex key bolt was.

Then use the pick again to get the inner seal out. Its the same as the outer seal.

To reassemble it, take one of the seals and put some nylog on the back of it and drop it in from the side of the manifold. Use the pick to get it to seat right. Be gentle, if you score the seal your screwed. If you cant figure out which side of the seal goes towards the ball, you shouldn't be in this business. If you made it this far and cant figure it out, sell the manifold and apply at McDonalds.

Now comes the hard part. Drop the ball in the end of the manifold. It has a little stalk on it. Drop the stalk in first. Then use the pick to spin the ball from the front until the stalk points up to where the knob is supposed to be. It can be difficult and it can take a few trys to get it to slide in there right.

Then install the outer seal. Again, use nylog. Put it on the side facing the ball. When you drop it in there, you will have to push it to get it to seat on the ball. I used a q-tip because I didnt want to mess up the seal but any thing small and not metal should work.

Put the brass plug back in the end and then reinstall the hex keyed bolt. There is an o-ring on the hex keyed bolt, the rebuild kit comes with a new one. Nylog here too.

Then take the 6 point bolt assembly and replace the o-ring on it and put it back on the front. You will have to line up the slot on the assembly with the stalk on the ball. Again, Nylog.

Put the knob back on and then go out and make some money.

Originally Posted by hvac wiz 79

Besides this I've had the issue of refrigerant bypassing the low side ball valve. ?

I found with the supplied manifold, after you have metered in some liquid refrigerant and you show a little frost on the body, the suction side valve will not shut off 100%. Found this out the hard way- shut off the gas feed to a system, walked away for a few minutes to check the evaporator, and the refrigerant was still feeding into the system. OVERCHARGE!

E-mailed Digi-cool and got no response.

Here's where mine was leaking from .. I've never exerted to much force either . .

Haven't fixed it yet I need to though as the manifolds I have laying around do not line up and I hate the look with the angled fittings. Besides this I've had the issue of refrigerant bypassing the low side ball valve. Anyone know the point of the brass washer looking thing inside the area where the nut in the picture is?

Sent from my SGH-T999L using Tapatalk 4

Can you post pics of the leaking parts? After looking at other pictures, I have a gut feel that it uses the same manifold assembly OEM.

Try some Nylog.

It was already tight. I unscrewed the nut and re-tightened. It still leaks. Didn't leak during the first 10 months.

no did you try giving that nut a little turn to tighten it before you pulled everything apart? Thats all mine needed..

Has anyone else replaced their teflon seal?

Shoot an email to Doug Lockhart via this or the Digi-cool website.

Doug will point you in the right direction.

Digi Cool AK 900 Manifold Rebuild

My high side ball valve slowly leaks into my center port when closed on my AK manifold. Brenda mailed me replacement teflon seals and O-rings. I pulled the red dial off and unscrewed the brass pieces, but how do I access/replace the teflon ring? I couldn't find any posts on this.